T56 Hydraulics Issue

[Vicinity]

Are you using a slave and.stock arm setup or a hydraulic throwout? The pivot point of the pedal can obviously effect throw length and feel, but once you have full throw of your master cylinder, there is nothing more to be gained from pushing it in farther than damage to it's seal. If it is bled correctly, the only other variable is how close the bearing is to the fingers of the pressure plate. The bearing only moves out so far, if there is slop between bearing face and fingers, you loose all that travel and it won't enage. You may need to shim out from face of tranny or go to the next longest piston. It should be explained in more detail in the manual.

Well, I'm using a McLeod Bellhousing to mate a Viper T56 with an LS engine on a LS7 clutch, so I had to use a Viper slave. I suppose I'll pull everything and check measurements.

[Vicinity]

Ordered the Tick shim 3 pack, just in case.

[CamaroLovr]

I'm having the same problem guys. Don't mean to hijack the thread but figured might as well not start another one. I've got a 69 Camaro with SBC and LT1 T56. Using all Mcloed hydraulics, Mcleod bell, Mcleod alum flywheel, and would be using Mcleod clutch kit but one of the bolt holes wouldn't line up with the flywheel and returned for a Dual Friction Centerforce unit. First problem I had was that the fork hit the pressure plate so out came the tranny and had to cut off the fork pedestal. Well it no longer hits the pressure plate but I can't get the slave to push out enough to disengage the clutch from the flywheel!! This is my FINAL STEP before getting to take it for its maiden voyage and I'm getting very frustrated. I'm assuming just still has air in system but I don't know now. I've bled it with the old pedal push crack bleader method, mityvaced it, pushed on the slave with the pedal up. I've got a decent pedal and it is pushing but just not quite enough. Is the pheonix the only other option? Thanks.

[CamaroLovr]

Also from the get-go the fluid coming out of the bleeder has been grey in color. Any ideas as to why that is?

[MrQuick]

could just be aerated fluid. Its not metallic looking is it?

[CamaroLovr]

Yeah it does almost look metallic. It's weird that it has been that way since the very first bleeding.

[Vicinity]

Also from the get-go the fluid coming out of the bleeder has been grey in color. Any ideas as to why that is?

Mine wasn't grey, mine was slightly darker than brake fluid, isn't the LT1 system a pull type?

[MrQuick]

Yeah it does almost look metallic. It's weird that it has been that way since the very first bleeding.

The fluid could have been contaminated from the old system? If there is metal in the fluid sadly the system will have to be replaced. Metal will destroy your system seals in seconds.

Should be a pull type but that would depend if it was replaced with one.

[CamaroLovr]

Good news. The phoenix pump that pushed the fluid backwards back up into the slave and master fixed the clutch right up! Got to take my car for the first test drive with the new drivetrain in it yesterday. I highly recommend the phoenix for this!