T56 Hydraulics Issue

[Vicinity]

Getting nothing from LS1Tech or the manual forum, so I'll give it a shot here.



I just finished everything up and went to test the car in gear on a lift, and the clutch pedal isn't fully engaging. The travel on the pedal feels really short. First 1/2 to 3/4's of what a normal clutch pedal feels like.


I welded a small tab on the near the top of the clutch pedal (IIRC it was just above the muncie rod hole). I moved it up more and that did not help. The pedal looks like it's pushing the plunger in entirely.


I'm not really sure what needs to be fixed, tons of people have done this and their pedal offered enough travel, I'm confused as to why my pedal is so short and unable to disengage the clutch...


Any thoughts?

(Side thought... will the CSC not full actuate if the master is pushed BEYOND it's max?)

[diesel25lrs]

Sounds to me like its not completely bled out... I have done mine a couple times & the trick is to push the fluid from the bottom up using a good pump like a pheonix. Mine was just like yours before i used this type pump.

[Vicinity]

I bled the clutch through an entire bottle of brake fluid, I didn't see any bubbles (although, it was a very tight fit, I couldn't see 100%). Any more info on that pump?

[diesel25lrs]

Did u push fluid up from bottom bleeder valve or just fill from top & bleed out? - It does make a difference...Also ensure your line has no big bends & is lower than master. I borrowed the pump from a bud- its called a Phoenix pump

[Vicinity]

I bled the master on the bench (insert fluid, fill line, let off release), then connected it to the slave and top fed bled it. I don't remember offhand how I routed the braided line, but I think it was below the master, because I had to run it down and around the steering column/box.

[GeoffP]

I can attest that if you didn't buy a remoter bleeder that the LS hydraulics are a pain to bleed. It took me HOURS to get might right. I regretted not buying the remote bleeder kit from the moment I started trying to bleed mine.

[diesel25lrs]

Do you have a remote bleed line coming off the slave?

[Vicinity]

No, no remote bleeder line. It's a viper slave, so I can access the the screw, it's not easy, but I can turn it back and forth. Why do you say its a pain?

Also, does anyones pedal just feel like it's not traveling enough. Not looking how far the plunger is, but just by feel, it feels so short. Maybe it works and it's just deceiving me.

[GeoffP]

I used a spark plug boot and a piece of clear line to bleed mine (4th gen F-body setup). I setup a recirculating line from the bleeder to the reservoir and kept pumping until I had no bubbles at all. This turned out to be the best method to finally get good pedal feel. I will definitely be buying a remote bleeder when I pull it apart to put a new clutch in (hopefully NO TIME SOON).

[MrQuick]

don't get mad but i have to ask....bleeder screw is on top right?

[diesel25lrs]

I used a spark plug boot and a piece of clear line to bleed mine (4th gen F-body setup). I setup a recirculating line from the bleeder to the reservoir and kept pumping until I had no bubbles at all. This turned out to be the best method to finally get good pedal feel. I will definitely be buying a remote bleeder when I pull it apart to put a new clutch in (hopefully NO TIME SOON).

I did this method for a couple DAYS & got a decent pedal... The spot where the clutch would disengage was different & constantly changing...
Then my bud hooked up his pump & pushed ALL the fluid up from the bottom end of the line until it filled my reservoir- new car clutch feel since! I'm convinced this is the only good wAy!

[Vicinity]

Wow... you guys are really making me regret not putting in a remote line. I guess I'll go back to bleeding it.

Yes, Mr Quick, the bleeder screw is on top, about 2 inches from the quick disconnect.

[Vicinity]

I got a Phoenix Injector Pump. I can't fit any bits for it, I'm trying to find someone who sells them... this is becoming a huge pain, lol.

[diesel25lrs]

That sucks... Doesn't it come with like 10 different rubber tips that twist on? I know there was a bagful in the one i borrowed... Let me know if not & i'll ask where he got them.

[sjaroslo]

I got a Phoenix Injector Pump. I can't fit any bits for it, I'm trying to find someone who sells them... this is becoming a huge pain, lol.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...FXGRPAodcWMAfQ

FWIW...

[Vicinity]

That sucks... Doesn't it come with like 10 different rubber tips that twist on? I know there was a bagful in the one i borrowed... Let me know if not & i'll ask where he got them.

Yeah, they come with it. But whoever used this one last didn't clean them off and the plastic is melted through.

I bought a mityvac instead.

[Vicinity]

Mityvac revealed NO bubbles except at full depress, then it bubbled like you're trying to drink the last of a soda in a big cup through a straw.

Not sure what this means. (Note: I do not have a pedal stop at this time.

[TMIproducts]

I remember having a hell of a time getting mine bled too. I ended up buying the remote bleeder, 24" from Speedway Motors. That helped a ton. I ended up using a vacuum bleeder to bleed it.

The factory master cylinder only has about 1" of total stroke. I have mine set up to stroke 7/8". I've heard if you over stroke it, you will mess it up.

That's really odd how you get all sorts of bubbles when fully depressed...Obviously that means you're sucking air somewhere, which is your problem. Just not sure how to figure out where its sucking air.

[Vicinity]

Yeah, that's where I'm lost. The slave is a brand new viper unit, so I'm going to go with the assumption it's good. So I'll order a brand new GM Master (pre bled) and see if that cures the issue.

[lfdsteve]

Are you using a slave and.stock arm setup or a hydraulic throwout? The pivot point of the pedal can obviously effect throw length and feel, but once you have full throw of your master cylinder, there is nothing more to be gained from pushing it in farther than damage to it's seal. If it is bled correctly, the only other variable is how close the bearing is to the fingers of the pressure plate. The bearing only moves out so far, if there is slop between bearing face and fingers, you loose all that travel and it won't enage. You may need to shim out from face of tranny or go to the next longest piston. It should be explained in more detail in the manual.