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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231

      T56 Hydraulics Issue

      Getting nothing from LS1Tech or the manual forum, so I'll give it a shot here.

      I just finished everything up and went to test the car in gear on a lift, and the clutch pedal isn't fully engaging. The travel on the pedal feels really short. First 1/2 to 3/4's of what a normal clutch pedal feels like.


      I welded a small tab on the near the top of the clutch pedal (IIRC it was just above the muncie rod hole). I moved it up more and that did not help. The pedal looks like it's pushing the plunger in entirely.


      I'm not really sure what needs to be fixed, tons of people have done this and their pedal offered enough travel, I'm confused as to why my pedal is so short and unable to disengage the clutch...


      Any thoughts?

      (Side thought... will the CSC not full actuate if the master is pushed BEYOND it's max?)
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      461
      Country Flag: United States

      T56 Hydraulics Issue

      Sounds to me like its not completely bled out... I have done mine a couple times & the trick is to push the fluid from the bottom up using a good pump like a pheonix. Mine was just like yours before i used this type pump.
      Josh
      "Schism"
      69 camaro

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      I bled the clutch through an entire bottle of brake fluid, I didn't see any bubbles (although, it was a very tight fit, I couldn't see 100%). Any more info on that pump?
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      461
      Country Flag: United States

      T56 Hydraulics Issue

      Did u push fluid up from bottom bleeder valve or just fill from top & bleed out? - It does make a difference...Also ensure your line has no big bends & is lower than master. I borrowed the pump from a bud- its called a Phoenix pump
      Josh
      "Schism"
      69 camaro

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      I bled the master on the bench (insert fluid, fill line, let off release), then connected it to the slave and top fed bled it. I don't remember offhand how I routed the braided line, but I think it was below the master, because I had to run it down and around the steering column/box.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      1,747
      Country Flag: United States
      I can attest that if you didn't buy a remoter bleeder that the LS hydraulics are a pain to bleed. It took me HOURS to get might right. I regretted not buying the remote bleeder kit from the moment I started trying to bleed mine.
      GeoffP
      68 Camaro - LS1/T-56

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      461
      Country Flag: United States

      T56 Hydraulics Issue

      Do you have a remote bleed line coming off the slave?
      Josh
      "Schism"
      69 camaro

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      No, no remote bleeder line. It's a viper slave, so I can access the the screw, it's not easy, but I can turn it back and forth. Why do you say its a pain?

      Also, does anyones pedal just feel like it's not traveling enough. Not looking how far the plunger is, but just by feel, it feels so short. Maybe it works and it's just deceiving me.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      1,747
      Country Flag: United States
      I used a spark plug boot and a piece of clear line to bleed mine (4th gen F-body setup). I setup a recirculating line from the bleeder to the reservoir and kept pumping until I had no bubbles at all. This turned out to be the best method to finally get good pedal feel. I will definitely be buying a remote bleeder when I pull it apart to put a new clutch in (hopefully NO TIME SOON).
      GeoffP
      68 Camaro - LS1/T-56

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      don't get mad but i have to ask....bleeder screw is on top right?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      461
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GeoffP View Post
      I used a spark plug boot and a piece of clear line to bleed mine (4th gen F-body setup). I setup a recirculating line from the bleeder to the reservoir and kept pumping until I had no bubbles at all. This turned out to be the best method to finally get good pedal feel. I will definitely be buying a remote bleeder when I pull it apart to put a new clutch in (hopefully NO TIME SOON).
      I did this method for a couple DAYS & got a decent pedal... The spot where the clutch would disengage was different & constantly changing...
      Then my bud hooked up his pump & pushed ALL the fluid up from the bottom end of the line until it filled my reservoir- new car clutch feel since! I'm convinced this is the only good wAy!
      Josh
      "Schism"
      69 camaro

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Wow... you guys are really making me regret not putting in a remote line. I guess I'll go back to bleeding it.

      Yes, Mr Quick, the bleeder screw is on top, about 2 inches from the quick disconnect.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      I got a Phoenix Injector Pump. I can't fit any bits for it, I'm trying to find someone who sells them... this is becoming a huge pain, lol.

      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension



    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      NC
      Posts
      461
      Country Flag: United States

      T56 Hydraulics Issue

      That sucks... Doesn't it come with like 10 different rubber tips that twist on? I know there was a bagful in the one i borrowed... Let me know if not & i'll ask where he got them.
      Josh
      "Schism"
      69 camaro

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
      Posts
      622
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Vicinity View Post
      I got a Phoenix Injector Pump. I can't fit any bits for it, I'm trying to find someone who sells them... this is becoming a huge pain, lol.
      http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...FXGRPAodcWMAfQ

      FWIW...
      Steve

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Quote Originally Posted by diesel25lrs View Post
      That sucks... Doesn't it come with like 10 different rubber tips that twist on? I know there was a bagful in the one i borrowed... Let me know if not & i'll ask where he got them.
      Yeah, they come with it. But whoever used this one last didn't clean them off and the plastic is melted through.

      I bought a mityvac instead.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Mityvac revealed NO bubbles except at full depress, then it bubbled like you're trying to drink the last of a soda in a big cup through a straw.

      Not sure what this means. (Note: I do not have a pedal stop at this time.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      20
      Country Flag: United States
      I remember having a hell of a time getting mine bled too. I ended up buying the remote bleeder, 24" from Speedway Motors. That helped a ton. I ended up using a vacuum bleeder to bleed it.

      The factory master cylinder only has about 1" of total stroke. I have mine set up to stroke 7/8". I've heard if you over stroke it, you will mess it up.

      That's really odd how you get all sorts of bubbles when fully depressed...Obviously that means you're sucking air somewhere, which is your problem. Just not sure how to figure out where its sucking air.
      Tim King
      [email protected]

      Specializing in Camaro, Chevelle, Mustang and Volkswagen interiors.

      www.tmiproducts.com

      Our 66 Chevelle Build Thread:
      http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285211

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Yeah, that's where I'm lost. The slave is a brand new viper unit, so I'm going to go with the assumption it's good. So I'll order a brand new GM Master (pre bled) and see if that cures the issue.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      47
      Are you using a slave and.stock arm setup or a hydraulic throwout? The pivot point of the pedal can obviously effect throw length and feel, but once you have full throw of your master cylinder, there is nothing more to be gained from pushing it in farther than damage to it's seal. If it is bled correctly, the only other variable is how close the bearing is to the fingers of the pressure plate. The bearing only moves out so far, if there is slop between bearing face and fingers, you loose all that travel and it won't enage. You may need to shim out from face of tranny or go to the next longest piston. It should be explained in more detail in the manual.

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