Tru Turn System with Stock Control Arms

[marolf101x]

Well, luckily I don't have to sell our parts. . .I just have to make stuff that works and people want to buy! Can't you tell I'd make one hell of a salesman!

We offer upper control arms, lower control arms, spindles, TruTurn, etc separately so you can build the car in stages. (This is how I have to build my personal projects.)



The upper and lower control arms were designed for a lowered ride height, so the ball joint angles were changed in relation to the new height and caster was added (depending on the vehicle and version we moved just the upper, or both the upper and the lower). You should be fine even if you are at stock height, but you'll want to stroke the suspension to make sure you don't reach ball joint bind, and you'll need to pay attention to how many spacers you use when you align it. A stack of spacers is fine, but it looks crappy.

[nicks67camaro]

Well, luckily I don't have to sell our parts. . .I just have to make stuff that works and people want to buy! Can't you tell I'd make one hell of a salesman!

We offer upper control arms, lower control arms, spindles, TruTurn, etc separately so you can build the car in stages. (This is how I have to build my personal projects.)

The upper and lower control arms were designed for a lowered ride height, so the ball joint angles were changed in relation to the new height and caster was added (depending on the vehicle and version we moved just the upper, or both the upper and the lower). You should be fine even if you are at stock height, but you'll want to stroke the suspension to make sure you don't reach ball joint bind, and you'll need to pay attention to how many spacers you use when you align it. A stack of spacers is fine, but it looks crappy.

Jeff did a nice job on showing the header clearance issues. Do you have a template yet or some measurements to ensure proper clearance? I'm leaning towards this but i'm still not sure if it will clear my header set up (Gen1 SBC with Headman Hustler Headers 1 7/8 primary tube)

[shmoov69]

Thanks Britt! Needless to say I like a car sitting LOW! My car sits way too low to be completely functional right now, but it looks good!! LOL! I'll give y'all a call and get some stuff on the way.

[marolf101x]

Nick,

We don't have a template to show header clearance as the template would be the adapter plate supplied in the kit. It's 1/2" steel and has bends in it, so making even a cardboard template may not work too well.

Our deal is if you buy the kit and it hits your headers, and you don't want to change the headers we'll return the kit at full price (so long as it's in re-sell-able condition). "no harm, no foul".

[nicks67camaro]

Thanks!

[shmoov69]

FYI. Ordered the Truturn setup and upper Strongarms. Need to find some springs that aren't hacked (like mine are!) and maybe some shocks too.
Anxious to see the difference! Anyone have an idea on the alignment specs that are needed with this setup?

[brownz]

In a nut shell would you say that I could run a tru turn system with stock upper and lower control arms and still run a 275 tire? I will not have control arms for a while. I know that I will not get the best results this way but I would just need to run it like that until I could get control arms. Kinda in your boat with the budget build. Also how did these work with lowering springs?

[shmoov69]

BTT!! Going to hijack Jeff's thread here since it's so helpful! LoL!
Ok, my car has been dead since December 1st and now I'm getting it back together slowly. I've been having some minor trouble because the instructions are not too good and the illustrations leave the washers out, which now I have a few washers out! (Is that bad?). I'm not real sure how to torque the studs because they say 100 lb/ft on one side with 35 lb/ft on the other side with no real way to hold it without chewing up the taper. How am I supposed to do that?? Also, on the outer stud, they won't seat into the steering arm deep enough to get the cotter key in, actually on one I got it in but had to redrill the castle nut since the stud isn't drilled straight. Anyway, on the other one the hole isn't up "high enough" to get a cotter key thru. What are your suggestions guys? I'm kind of frustrated about it since I have had to disassemble this several times because I'm "guessing" exactly how things go on some of the small parts.
Thanks!

[GeoffP]

Jimmy - call ridetech and ask them to replace that outer link adapter. Don't use the one that was drilled off center because it's a safety issue. I had one that was drilled off center and they replaced it no questions asked once they saw the picture I posted in my build thread.

[shmoov69]

Thanks Geoff, I'll try to remember to call them tomorrow. What's your thoughts in the hole being too low or the link not going deep enough into the steering arm?

[GeoffP]

Since the hole is offset, it creates a weak point in the pin. While probably not a huge deal, it's a steering component...not something you want failing going down the road at 60-70 MPH. I figured it was worth waiting to assemble the steering linkage long enough to wait on a replacement. I got it in 2-3 days IIRC.

[ryanleiker]

I know it's an old thread, but does anyone have any shots of how the center relocation bracket fits up to an oil pan on an LS swap?

Or a dimension for how much extra depth I'll need... I've already notched my F-body oil pan to clear the original center link, so I can't go any deeper.

[dhutton]

I know it's an old thread, but does anyone have any shots of how the center relocation bracket fits up to an oil pan on an LS swap?

Or a dimension for how much extra depth I'll need... I've already notched my F-body oil pan to clear the original center link, so I can't go any deeper.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...urn+Holley+pan

Don