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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States

      Radiator Fluid Disappearing....

      I have a SBC 383, that seems to drink water fast. I can run 10 miles, and will have to put at least 1-2 quarts of water into the radiator everytime. Its a aluminum radiator and heads. Fairly new engine. I don't see any water leaking any where, and don't see any water in the oil. Any suggestions. Thinking maybe a head gasket leaking into the exhaust side, but I don't see water coming out the pipe.

      Oscar

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      467
      Do you have a way to pressurize the cylinders with compressed air? You can then listen at the tailpipe for an air noise. If you're losing that much water though I would think you'd see some steam out of the exhaust.
      Erik

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...without-a-name

      Camaro LS2, T56, 12 bolt, C6 Z06 brakes, Rushforth Super Spokes, ATS Spindles
      2006 Chevy Trailblazer SS

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Salem, OR
      Posts
      226
      You can get dye and at parts stores and add it to the radiator. My wife had a truck when we first met that was using water (not as much as yours) and that was the way I ended up finding it. It wasn't going into the oil and there wasn't any steam but you could see the dye in the tailpipe.
      Mike R
      '66 Olds Cutlass Convertible
      '15 Challenger SRT 392 (DD)
      '72 Pontiac LeMans (wife's toy)

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Tx
      Posts
      1,193
      whats the engine oil level look like?
      Instagram: CamaroAJ

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      What brand heads?....heard of some having casting issues and losing water.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      White Rock, SC
      Posts
      50
      Pull your oil filler cap to see if condensation is accumulating (the steam will cause condensation at the top of the motor).
      Do a leak down test on each cylinder to see what percentage of drop you have. Take the pressure off of the rockers, remove the plugs and insert the hose adapter to each of the spark plug holes one at a time and fill the cylinders with compressed air. This will automatically put the piston and bottom dead center and then write down the pressure readings and “pressure drop”. This will indicate which cylinder is the culprit and then listen for air though the intake, exhaust and oil filler cap to pinpoint exactly what’s up. This isn’t a fun test but it will answer your question as to where the water is going.
      Steve
      1967 LS1 RS Camaro (Project "OVRBDGT");
      1968 350 Camaro;
      1969 Chevelle SS-396

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Compton, Ca
      Posts
      370
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey!! I found some condensation in my oil breather that has the EGR valve! What does that mean? Should I be concerned???
      Love your Family N Life itself.
      68Camaro rs (Medusa)

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Santa Maria , CA
      Posts
      94
      Country Flag: United States
      No to discount finding the condensation but are you using a overflow reservoir? Have pressure tested your cap and cooling system?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      My oil level is good see no discoloration. There is condensation in the valve covers. I have a overflow reservoir. I don't see any signs of a leak. Don't see any water drips at all. I quess I will do the cylyder test. The car runs really good. The plugs look really clean probably to clean.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      Im running the dart 215 aluminum heads.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      467
      If one plug looks cleaner than the others that's probably the problem cylinder. The water in there acts like a steam cleaner so start with that cylinder. Good luck.

      Erik

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...without-a-name

      Camaro LS2, T56, 12 bolt, C6 Z06 brakes, Rushforth Super Spokes, ATS Spindles
      2006 Chevy Trailblazer SS


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by obengston View Post
      Im running the dart 215 aluminum heads.
      Dart was not the brand that I heard about with casting problems. A pressure test should help you find where the water is going.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ErikLS2 View Post
      If one plug looks cleaner than the others that's probably the problem cylinder. The water in there acts like a steam cleaner so start with that cylinder. Good luck.
      Correct...no carbon in the cylinder that is leaking.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    14. #14
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      bowling green,ky
      Posts
      845
      Country Flag: United States
      i had the same problem, unfortunately it wasnt a head gasket, it was a cracked block. good luck:(

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      I have antifreeze in it. I have'nt noticed any smell from the exhaust or seen anything. I will re-check it. Its just that if it were leaking from the front somewhere you would think I would some some sign of that. I see no drips or wetness, but have noticed the chrome areas have specs on them so thats a sign of liquid flying. I think I will start with my overflow tank (I checked it last night and it was dry), Also pulled the valve covers the oil on the heads looked clean and water free. The valve cover itself had a small amaout of condensation, but not much.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      I just did a pressure test on the radiator 26psi for 5 min in that time it was almost down 1 psi. I noticed a small drip at the heater hose fixed that then noticed a small leak inside where the heater core area is. So I will disconnect the hose tommorrow. Again it seems to be a really small drip and the pressure on the radiator held. I did turn the engine over while the pressure was on the radiator and it still held.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Tx
      Posts
      1,193
      was the engine hot when you did the pressure test? a true pressure test would be cold and then another test at opperating temp.
      Instagram: CamaroAJ

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      It was cold, and I did'nt do one with it warm....should I?

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, Tx
      Posts
      1,193
      yes, just to be sure. when things heat up they expand. if there is a small leak then when its cool it might not leak but when hot it might be leaking alot.
      Instagram: CamaroAJ

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I baught a new radiator cap / new themostat / new resorvoir, and by passed the heater core. Filled the radiator and some in the overflow. Ran it about 10 min, came back water from overflow gone, checked radiator a little low half court. Filled both again same drive same results, and did it again same result. Can't see anything wet. Sooo maybe I'm looking at possibly pulling the heads.

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