Code 66 Accel DFI shutting off ?

[Jim Nilsen]

I have looked all over and see no unconnected grounds or any other wiring differences from the way it was before I swapped the engine. The code will come up and it will only turn over a couple of times or it might run for a bit. It was running good and when I was going around the block it died, it started right back up after clearing the code in the computer.

I am going to keep looking for the problem and could use some experience with this. It has to be something so simple and I am looking right at it and it looks right and it isn't.

Dave at Accel had no real good ideas other than to recheck all the grounds.

It started the last 5 times in row so we will see if I got it the last time I reconnected the grounds to the engine and battery cable.

I just can't seem to pin down what is getting it to start if it is anything I am doing at all.

I did change the lower drive pulley to the alternator to speed it up and it now has 12.9 volts at idle. before it would go down to 11.5 an it had no problems. I can't see where the higher voltage would hurt as it never had any problems when it goes up in rpm to 14.1.

I am stumped as to what is causing this.

[LSx_88_Ciera]

what generation/model dfi

[Jim Nilsen]

what generation/model dfi

Gen 7 version 6.1.5

I still keep thinking it is a ground problem but can't seem to get anywhere. it starts up after disconnecting and reconnecting the ground on the block but I don't know if that is what is helping? It could just be something in the ecu and is intermittent.

I'll keep looking and taking suggestions.

[LSx_88_Ciera]

What ignition system are you running and is it the same as before.

[Jim Nilsen]

What ignition system are you running and is it the same as before.

I am running all the Accel pieces to be sequential and the 6A box. It is all the same as before and it was just fine. It is really strange how it just starts up and runs ok for qite a few times and then it does the code 66 for a couple of times in a row.

When it deosn't seem to want to go away I reinstall the program and reboot everything and it works most of the time but it didn't several others.

I might pull the plugs all apart and reconnect them and see if there is just a bad connection in one of them?

I thought I had the EFI problems all behind me and tuning was the only thing it needed.

It started up fine the last time an hour ago.

I'm stumped

[Denvervet]

Dang, I've been following your threads since I have the same accel setup to wire up . What does the code 66 mean....as per accel?

[LSx_88_Ciera]

I would check everything that is attached to the 3 pin red and 8 pin black they are all that would effect the ignition driver. Unfortunately I don't know of an easy way to verify that the ign. driver circuit is exceeding .5A.

[LSx_88_Ciera]

Dang, I've been following your threads since I have the same accel setup to wire up . What does the code 66 mean....as per accel?

Ignition driver circuit output voltage >.5A

[Jim Nilsen]

I would check everything that is attached to the 3 pin red and 8 pin black they are all that would effect the ignition driver. Unfortunately I don't know of an easy way to verify that the ign. driver circuit is exceeding .5A.

Sounds like pulling the connectors apart and looking for a bent pin or one that got pushed in and is making a bad connection might be the problem. taking them apart and putting them back together will do that sometimes. I can't think of what else it could be.

I'll have to study the schematics again till I see it and then go test.

I swear that they are trying to make me an EMIC the hard way. one day I will know more than the average tuner about these units the hard way.

Thanks for the help in chasing it down, I really get disappointed when this stuff happens and want to walk away from it and then find myself digging all the way in. Not gonna let it kick my ass is how I feel.

By tommorow I hope to find it or it just goes away.lol

[LSx_88_Ciera]

Do a shake, wiggle, and tap test first.
I am leaning towards a component with an intermittent internal short but there are many things that can cause it. I however don't think it is a bad connection, a bad connection will increase resistance which will reduce current, a short on the other hand will increase current.

[Jim Nilsen]

Do a shake, wiggle, and tap test first.
I am leaning towards a component with an intermittent internal short but there are many things that can cause it. I however don't think it is a bad connection, a bad connection will increase resistance which will reduce current, a short on the other hand will increase current.

I have been doing the wiggle and test from the very beginning. You are right about it being a possible short. now where that little booger is?

I have a 1 wire alternator so I don't see how it could change anything for curent to to the boxes at start up.

I will keep looking and any ideas are more tham welcome.

[AintQik]

Jim Sir, I would like to buy you a beverage of choice. Please let me know how I can do that.

[Charley Lillard]

Is your battery fully charged ?

[Jim Nilsen]

Is your battery fully charged ?

Hi Charley, Good to hear from you.

yes it is charged and it even does it when the charger is hooked up and it has over 13.9 volts. and all the power of the battery too.

It is an over current that is doing it and it sure seems strange since nothing else was done to the ignition system.

I hope somehow you can make it to the Motorstate Challenge. i always look forward to seeing you.

[Jim Nilsen]

Jim Sir, I would like to buy you a beverage of choice. Please let me know how I can do that.

The best way I can think of is to be at the Motorstate Challenge and we can have it together and talk about everything. I will even give you a ride. Everything should be working good by then I hope.

Where do you live ?

I appreciate the offer

[LSx_88_Ciera]

New day and thinking more clearly now. Just noticed that you mentioned that you have more voltage than before believe
it or not this can cause issues when the right circumstances are present.

Let me explain.
The combined resistance of all the ECM controlled/monitored components of the ignition system has a set value.
Lets assume some numbers.
Rt is 24Ω
Using ohms law E/I*R this would give you a .5A draw at 12v but when you increase to 14V the amps would increase to .58A.
The only thing I can think of that could have caused this to occur now would be a reduced resistance in either the cam sensor,
crank sensor, or ESC module. One other thing that could cause it even though it sounds stupid but a better connection could be the culprit.
The weaker connection would increase the resistance and reduce current.

Just as a test you could run the car without the alternator connected and see what happens.
Something else you may want to check is the resistance between all of the wires in you 8 pin ign. connector and the cable shield (pin g)
it should be out of limits or at least very high.

[AintQik]

In Colorado right now in the military, but moving back to the E Coast during the Challenge. I will catch up with you and make good on my offer. You have been through a lot and I appreciate you keeping your head up. You will get it.

The best way I can think of is to be at the Motorstate Challenge and we can have it together and talk about everything. I will even give you a ride. Everything should be working good by then I hope.

Where do you live ?

I appreciate the offer

[Jim Nilsen]

New day and thinking more clearly now. Just noticed that you mentioned that you have more voltage than before believe
it or not this can cause issues when the right circumstances are present.

Let me explain.
The combined resistance of all the ECM controlled/monitored components of the ignition system has a set value.
Lets assume some numbers.
Rt is 24Ω
Using ohms law E/I*R this would give you a .5A draw at 12v but when you increase to 14V the amps would increase to .58A.
The only thing I can think of that could have caused this to occur now would be a reduced resistance in either the cam sensor,
crank sensor, or ESC module. One other thing that could cause it even though it sounds stupid but a better connection could be the culprit.
The weaker connection would increase the resistance and reduce current.

Just as a test you could run the car without the alternator connected and see what happens.
Something else you may want to check is the resistance between all of the wires in you 8 pin ign. connector and the cable shield (pin g)
it should be out of limits or at least very high.

Thanks for the thoughts, I can turn the alternator off at the push of a breaker and see if it is the culprit. I know it seems crazy too but it might just be cranking out power at the cranking of the engine even though it doesn't kick up until it goes over 1500 rpm.

What seems strange is that the more you go at it the better it gets and if you let it cool down it starts all over again. I know it has to be something simple and hard to see.

Keep the ideas coming and one of them will work sooner than later I hope.

[Jim Nilsen]

I am still having the same problem. I talked to the engine builder and he thinks it could be that the head might not be giving me a good enough ground and to jump it to the bell housing an see.

The grounds are all coonected to the 2-0 welding cable running to the battery and should have a good enough ground but the engine needs to be grounded too and even though it is grounded to the frame it may not be enough I am told by him. I just don't see it that way but I am going to try and jump the ground to more and more.

I am ready to smash this thing again and go to something different but I have too much time and energy into it learning how to program it and the wiring is all nice and neat and I don't want to start over with sometging new just yet, BUT maybe I will.



I am still looking for ideas if you have them as it seems it is a problem that has to be something simple or just a bad part somewhere starting to show up.

AAAAAARRRRRGGGGGG

[DC454]

You really can't have too many grounds. Try moving move the main ground to one of the starter bolts and add a ground strap from the back of the head to the firewall. Is the chassis, body and engine all grounded? Is the DFI box also grounded?