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    Results 1 to 18 of 18

    Thread: 355

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136

      355

      What camshaft is the best for a 355 Sbc?

      If your gonna drive it everyday, but still want some power at low rpm.
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
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      2,684
      Country Flag: United States
      Well... that is an open ended answer... without other details on the rest of the power train and chassis build.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      - Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Pistons with Moly rings,
      - New bearings in the engine
      - New bolts (Greater then grade 8 steel) in the whole engine
      - 350 heads (882) with roller rocker arms (1.5 or 1.6 ratio)
      - Stock crank, minor mods.
      - Stock rods (or SCAT Pro stock I-Beam connecting Rods)


      Narrowed it down?

      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by chicane67 View Post
      Well... that is an open ended answer... without other details on the rest of the power train and chassis build.

      It's for an 1978 Monza, With s10 chassis parts
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      Trans? Converter? Gear? Exhaust?
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
      V8 Radio Podcast

      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Trans: th350, 2600 stall converter (if so)

      Don't know the Gears in a s10 axle and the exhaust is going to be headers with 2 1/2" or 2 1/4" pipes with X-pipe and maybe cutouts.

      Don't want to have the idle to aggresive, something between aggresive and calm
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      The gears make a pretty big difference... Just lift up the car. Turn the wheels and count how many times the driveshaft turns for one wheel rotation.
      This is pretty general, for engines like this I'd probably be looking at something in the are of the Isky 264/274 Mega cam or the 270/280 Mega cam. Both can be ordered on a 108 lobe seperation which will make the idle a little more chunky. If the gears are numerically less than 3.50 go with the smaller cam.
      Stay away from 1.6 rocker arms, they will just get you in trouble with your valvesprings in an engine like this
      Just have the stock rods checked and use ARP or Milodon bolts in them. No need for aftermarket rods in an engine like this.
      Pony up and buy Forged pistons, Hyperutecnic is a fancy way of saying "cast with extra silicone content"
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
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      Also, compression ratio will help. if it's a high compression, you may need more can to bring cranking pressures down
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by Lowend View Post
      The gears make a pretty big difference... Just lift up the car. Turn the wheels and count how many times the driveshaft turns for one wheel rotation.
      This is pretty general, for engines like this I'd probably be looking at something in the are of the Isky 264/274 Mega cam or the 270/280 Mega cam. Both can be ordered on a 108 lobe seperation which will make the idle a little more chunky. If the gears are numerically less than 3.50 go with the smaller cam.
      Stay away from 1.6 rocker arms, they will just get you in trouble with your valvesprings in an engine like this
      Just have the stock rods checked and use ARP or Milodon bolts in them. No need for aftermarket rods in an engine like this.
      Pony up and buy Forged pistons, Hyperutecnic is a fancy way of saying "cast with extra silicone content"

      Forged then

      Almost got a s10 donor car today, but it was an 4x4 "/

      1.6 ratio roller rockers are bad?
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      They can be bad. 1.6 rocker add valve lift vs a 1.5 rocker
      as you add valve lift you further increase stress on the valvesprings, and get closer to bottoming out.
      Truth be told, lift isn't all that important in making power. If you have your cam durations correct, the lift will take care of itself.

      1.6 rockers can also add some duration to the cam (albeit not very much).
      I don't like 1.6's in really any application where the cam designer didn't work the profile with them in mind
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      1.5 ratio is the way to go then`?
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
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      1,793
      yes
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by Lowend View Post
      yes
      Thanks for your help, a 270 or 280 cam is the best for a street car with some power then? : )
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      What kind of pushrods should I use with this application (Length):
      - 1.5 Roller rocker arms ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66907/ )
      - Valvre spring and retainer kit ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-174000/ )
      - Possible this cam : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7102/

      Sorry, but I don't know if those parts even work together, any response is great

      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      I'll be honest - I don't much care for any of those parts.
      I really dislike Edelbrock cams, they rebox and don't grind in house. In general just never seen great results using these.
      Proform stuff is Chinese and the quality is questionable.

      With you in Norway, you really need to take special care to make your stuff hi-quality as replacement parts are going to be difficult to obtain.



      My suggestion: Isky Part # 200271/281-12
      This gets you matching Cam, Lifters, Valve springs, Shims, Retainers and poly locks
      I would also suggest Isky Part # VL32 for valve locks
      CompCams Part # 2100 for a good timing set
      CompCams Part # 7693 Pushrods (.100 longer than stock)
      CompCams Part # 1301-16 for rocker arms (3/8")
      CompCams Part # 4810-8 for guide plates
      CompCams Part # 4502-16 for screw-in rocker studs (3/8")

      For engine hardware order ARP Part # 534-9801 for a full external bolt kit
      In General ARP makes all of the best engine hardware so use them for rod bolts, main studs, head bolts as well
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett


    16. #16
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      Quote Originally Posted by Lowend View Post
      I'll be honest - I don't much care for any of those parts.
      I really dislike Edelbrock cams, they rebox and don't grind in house. In general just never seen great results using these.
      Proform stuff is Chinese and the quality is questionable.

      With you in Norway, you really need to take special care to make your stuff hi-quality as replacement parts are going to be difficult to obtain.

      My suggestion: Isky Part # 200271/281-12
      This gets you matching Cam, Lifters, Valve springs, Shims, Retainers and poly locks
      I would also suggest Isky Part # VL32 for valve locks
      CompCams Part # 2100 for a good timing set
      CompCams Part # 7693 Pushrods (.100 longer than stock)
      CompCams Part # 1301-16 for rocker arms (3/8")
      CompCams Part # 4810-8 for guide plates
      CompCams Part # 4502-16 for screw-in rocker studs (3/8")

      For engine hardware order ARP Part # 534-9801 for a full external bolt kit
      In General ARP makes all of the best engine hardware so use them for rod bolts, main studs, head bolts as well
      The cam in that set has rpm range of 2200-6500(5200)

      sure the proform items are questionable? : p
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      The cam is a little more modern grind simliar to the GM L-82 Cam that found it's way into quite a few Corvettes.
      As long as you have a 3.42+ gear set will will work great.
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      136
      If it was up to me and not my wallet, I had bought the best of the best, But seems I got to big plans for my budget, Fun to think how it would ended up like though (:
      - Andreas Unes, Norway.
      1978 Chevolet Monza Spyder (first-car project)




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