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    Thread: GTO Wheels

    1. #21
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      west michigan
      Posts
      514
      Country Flag: United States
      rushforth super spokes all the way. I would change the center color though
      Chad Read

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Kitchener
      Posts
      29
      Country Flag: Canada
      I had the frist set of wheels on my gto just to get an idea how they look.


    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
      Posts
      93
      Wow Mueen, very nice pictures there and I really appreciate you posting them. Your car looks great and that is a nice match to boot!

      whmjr I will be kind since I think these forum rules are tight with talking smack and say R E-R E A D S L O W L Y and your question will be answered. Also, I dont know if you have heard the term thread hijacking, but suffice to say you might want to look it up.

      I am looking into 17x11 rims now and it looks like 5.75 BS and for the front I will go with 17x7 or 17X8 with a 4.75 BS. I just have to find the right rims-lol.
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Kitchener
      Posts
      29
      Country Flag: Canada
      Thank you, I just getting all my pictures and specs together so I can get them in the project updates.

      My apologies about the hijacking.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by BAD68GTO View Post
      whmjr I will be kind since I think these forum rules are tight with talking smack and say R E-R E A D S L O W L Y and your question will be answered. Also, I dont know if you have heard the term thread hijacking, but suffice to say you might want to look it up.
      Dude, I don't know what your problem is, but if you R E A D S L O W L Y you'll see that you posted not a darned spec other than hp w and w/o juice. Nothing about what heads, type of porting, cam, compression, etc. OTOH, if you check MY posts (which are more than 21 btw) you'll see documentation of my build.

      I was seriously interested since good pontiac builds aren't as common. Now I'm not. Forget it.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
      Posts
      93
      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
      Dude, I don't know what your problem is, but if you R E A D S L O W L Y you'll see that you posted not a darned spec other than hp w and w/o juice. Nothing about what heads, type of porting, cam, compression, etc. OTOH, if you check MY posts (which are more than 21 btw) you'll see documentation of my build.

      I was seriously interested since good pontiac builds aren't as common. Now I'm not. Forget it.
      Read more, post less but for you apparently you need to read S L O W L Y. There was a link to my website with my car's specs that detail heads, porting, cam, compression, et cetera. It said "wmhjr sounds like you just want some details on my 68 over and above my signature, for what purpose I don't know, but you can see my car online if you like gementerprises.com/cars.html" 08-10-2009, 07:26 PM Yes, same thread too and with your vast experience posting, one would think you should know about thread hijacking already. Since you obviously have not, please read on forum etiquette while you are researching my car that you are so concerned about. The website is not updated as much as the car is, but you will get the idea of what it was before the rebuild; now it is faster and more aggressive. Now back to my rims again....

      Thinking of the 11x17 with 5.5BS and a 315/35 Nitto rear DR and 11x8 with 225/45-17 or 245/45-17 in the front in a radial Nitto. with 5.5BS I can get 4 Vintage 45 Wheelworks rims for $1160 landed and while I am not thrilled about the rims, they look good and frankly if they dont fit right or the like, I can resell them and only lose a little bit of loot and rebuy the right ones and or buy another set if I like them later on. As of yet I see nothing that is begging for me to buy and that is the problem, but since I need new rear tires right now, this is a way to buy a set of rims and tires to drive on and check fitment too. On the fitment side in a stock wheelwell, anyone see any probems with this combo in a 68 GTO with a stock size rear? Thanks in advance guys! Gary
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by BAD68GTO View Post
      Read more, post less but for you apparently you need to read S L O W L Y. There was a link to my website with my car's specs that detail heads, porting, cam, compression, et cetera. It said "wmhjr sounds like you just want some details on my 68 over and above my signature, for what purpose I don't know, but you can see my car online if you like gementerprises.com/cars.html" 08-10-2009, 07:26 PM Yes, same thread too and with your vast experience posting, one would think you should know about thread hijacking already. Since you obviously have not, please read on forum etiquette while you are researching my car that you are so concerned about. The website is not updated as much as the car is, but you will get the idea of what it was before the rebuild; now it is faster and more aggressive. Now back to my rims again....

      Thinking of the 11x17 with 5.5BS and a 315/35 Nitto rear DR and 11x8 with 225/45-17 or 245/45-17 in the front in a radial Nitto. with 5.5BS I can get 4 Vintage 45 Wheelworks rims for $1160 landed and while I am not thrilled about the rims, they look good and frankly if they dont fit right or the like, I can resell them and only lose a little bit of loot and rebuy the right ones and or buy another set if I like them later on. As of yet I see nothing that is begging for me to buy and that is the problem, but since I need new rear tires right now, this is a way to buy a set of rims and tires to drive on and check fitment too. On the fitment side in a stock wheelwell, anyone see any probems with this combo in a 68 GTO with a stock size rear? Thanks in advance guys! Gary
      Gary,
      I have 18x11s with 305/35R18s in the rear of my 68. You will have to massage the inside of the wheel well near the back. You also have to nail the back spacing and I would roll the lip a little bit from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock. Not much just enough so that there is not a sharp edge pointed at the tire. A 315 will be really tight, so tight it depends on the manufacturer of the tire. A 11 inch rim is actually about 12 inches wide and you will have a little under half an inch on each side. Too much tire bulge and you will rub. Your body must be centered on the frame and you should measure the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface on the rear and then get your backspacing. 5.5 sounds like it is incorrect. Pontiac rears are slightly different from a Chevy, I think you will need about 6.5 but you really need to measure. I have a narrowed rear so I can't help you with the stock dimensions.

      Jon
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
      Posts
      93
      Thanks so much Jon for your post-I do appreciate it! I have a Ford 9" with the same as a stock width in there. I also have 15x8 rimes with 4 7/8" BS on the back and even distance on both sides or VERY close to it. So I was thinking adding 2 inches would be +1" BS if I wanted to keep the same in and out format. Does this sound right? I also have had big slicks, oversized biased ply tires bulging and had to beat here and there and do a little grinding, so I have done some already. Although the current little 12.5x28x15 ET Streets do not rub at all, I had a lot bigger on there and they did so massaged a bit. I have grinders and air tools in my house so I can whack things in or roll if necessary and I suspect with a a 305 or a 315 tire. I will be running Nitto DR's and they run a hair small, so that is in my favor. I know I can cut, gring and roll on the outside and even forward and rear of the tire, but that inside frame portion scares me if I hit it and the only thing I could do is add a small spacer to bring it out if need be. I'd love to find a local place to made sure I am dead on and throw them a $50 bill or the like, but honestly I don't have a lot of faith in most guys in the business. I also taked with a few guys selling rims, but nothing again has jumped at me for my car, so was thinking the cheaper Vintage Wheel Works for now as they look good and again I can resell if I am wrong and not take too bad a bath. I will try for the 305 on the first set too with your suggestion and not the 315's and if it is okay and it looks like I can do the extra cm, I will order 315 after I burn off the 305's. Thanks again Jon!
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by BAD68GTO View Post
      Thanks so much Jon for your post-I do appreciate it! I have a Ford 9" with the same as a stock width in there. I also have 15x8 rimes with 4 7/8" BS on the back and even distance on both sides or VERY close to it. So I was thinking adding 2 inches would be +1" BS if I wanted to keep the same in and out format. Does this sound right? I also have had big slicks, oversized biased ply tires bulging and had to beat here and there and do a little grinding, so I have done some already. Although the current little 12.5x28x15 ET Streets do not rub at all, I had a lot bigger on there and they did so massaged a bit. I have grinders and air tools in my house so I can whack things in or roll if necessary and I suspect with a a 305 or a 315 tire. I will be running Nitto DR's and they run a hair small, so that is in my favor. I know I can cut, gring and roll on the outside and even forward and rear of the tire, but that inside frame portion scares me if I hit it and the only thing I could do is add a small spacer to bring it out if need be. I'd love to find a local place to made sure I am dead on and throw them a $50 bill or the like, but honestly I don't have a lot of faith in most guys in the business. I also taked with a few guys selling rims, but nothing again has jumped at me for my car, so was thinking the cheaper Vintage Wheel Works for now as they look good and again I can resell if I am wrong and not take too bad a bath. I will try for the 305 on the first set too with your suggestion and not the 315's and if it is okay and it looks like I can do the extra cm, I will order 315 after I burn off the 305's. Thanks again Jon!
      Gary,
      No problem. You are a little off on calculation from your reference wheels. Your numbers work for a 10 inch rim width but for an 11 inch you need to add 1.5 inches to get 6.375 as the back space and 5.625 front space. The width of a wheel is the inside where the bead sits and the back space is to the wheel edge. Typical wheel outside edge to outside edge is about 1 inch wider. Your 15x8s should measure about 9 inches. Add 1.5 per side to get 12 inches, the outside to outside of an 11 inch rim.

      You can measure it yourself easily. Here's how I measured: I made a simple tool out of some scrap cardboard and a straight edge to measure for the wheels. Took about 10 minutes to make. See pic:



      A 315/35R17 is about 25.7 inches in diameter and has a tread width of about 12.4 inches. That is about 0.2 inches of bulge so with a 6.375 inch back space the tread should be 6.575 inches toward the inside and 5.825 inches toward the outside. Cut another piece of cardboard 12.4 inches long by 4.34 inches wide (sidewall height) and mount it 12.35 inches from the center point of the axle with 6.575 inches of it inside. Rotate and find your interference points. Mine was just above the cardboard shown in the pic.

      Jon
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
      Posts
      93
      thanks again John and yes, I responded for my 18x10 wheel which is still an option. I will do the cardboard gig too, that is REALLY simple to do and should show if I am on the spot easily enough assuming I can keep everything straight as an arrow. Great tip and thanks again. I am still torn on rims, either an 18x10 or 17x11, but still looking for the right fit. If you have any computer questions, send me a PM and I will be happy to help (or with your portfolio for that matter-lol). Gary
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      RI
      Posts
      746
      Country Flag: United States
      If you go with the 17x11 your going to need around 6.25 bs. For 18x10 5.75 bs. Depending on how low your car is you might want a taller tire. 18" rims you can get tires from 26" to 28.5" tall with 17" the tallest you can get is 26" unless you go with a 295 mickey thompson drag radial which is 27" tall.

      Frank M
      1970 lemans sport
      2005 srt-10 ram
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SER1gBLn2N0


    12. #32
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by BAD68GTO View Post
      Read more, post less but for you apparently you need to read S L O W L Y. There was a link to my website with my car's specs that detail heads, porting, cam, compression, et cetera. It said "wmhjr sounds like you just want some details on my 68 over and above my signature, for what purpose I don't know, but you can see my car online if you like gementerprises.com/cars.html" 08-10-2009, 07:26 PM Yes, same thread too and with your vast experience posting, one would think you should know about thread hijacking already. Since you obviously have not, please read on forum etiquette while you are researching my car that you are so concerned about.
      Only one word comes to mind.

      Starts with an A. You're hear for less than a month and already schooling people. Nice. :bsjerk: Oh, and the reason I was interested? Because I'm scratching my head trying to figure out how that combo is "estimated" at 650hp. I "was" truly trying to figure it out and was hoping you'd have some info that might be helpful to others. The website you posted sure doesn't point to anything near that power level. Maybe about 100hp high.

      Like I said - no longer interested. Have fun.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      44
      if you`re still debating on wheels my vote for no.2 they`re SEXY!!!

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
      Posts
      93
      Quote Originally Posted by ponchopwr70 View Post
      If you go with the 17x11 your going to need around 6.25 bs. For 18x10 5.75 bs. Depending on how low your car is you might want a taller tire. 18" rims you can get tires from 26" to 28.5" tall with 17" the tallest you can get is 26" unless you go with a 295 mickey thompson drag radial which is 27" tall.
      Thanks very much for that, actually I had not considered that despite looking at tire sizes in detail. Right now I have a 2.88 first gear with 4.10's in the back, so effective is about a 4.33 so a taller tire around 28 or more is best for my application. Also I did forget to add the .5 BS to the 11" width too, so thanks for posting-you did help me.

      I'd frankly stay with my old 15's, but the tires choices are drying up every year for DR's and such slowly. I just don't want to get too big of a rim really as I want to keep the older look, so was going for the 17", but after your post I think the 18" is a better option for tires as I am putting down a lot of power and right now even with tall slicks she picks the front up aggressively even with working AC and street shocks and I just twisted the frame up, cracked the roof paint in a section and the windows are all misaligned and leaking and the car is cocked to one side by 2+" higher. Getting the body lifted from the frame next week, doing poly bushings, straightening the frame and caging the snot out of it, but keeping her on the street. Tire size is key for cruising and anyhow this forum has been a great help to me. Anyhow, thanks again from another Pontiwreck guy
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
      Posts
      93
      What do you guys think about this? I thinkthis might be it as it looks with GTO for the centercap
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      RI
      Posts
      746
      Country Flag: United States
      Those would look good. I think your car would look good with 18x8 with 255/45-18 in front and 18x10 with 305/45-18 dr both nittos. But thats just me. Your car isn't as low so the taller tires will fill the wheel wells better and you need all the tire you can get in there.
      Frank M
      1970 lemans sport
      2005 srt-10 ram
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SER1gBLn2N0

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      Merchantville, NJ
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      93
      Quote Originally Posted by ponchopwr70 View Post
      Those would look good. I think your car would look good with 18x8 with 255/45-18 in front and 18x10 with 305/45-18 dr both nittos. But thats just me. Your car isn't as low so the taller tires will fill the wheel wells better and you need all the tire you can get in there.
      Thank you! I am right on with the 18x10 and 305/45-18 555R and a 245/45-18 555 as I want a slightly smaller front for less drag and the fat/skinny look a hair more. My last thing I hope on this thread is what do you think of this for my black 68 GTO? Boze Alloys - BOOST WHEEL and they look like this on a car and I would get the same finish: Prodigy Customs Projects Gallery - Project Payback Upper left hand side, polished lip and brushed or whatever finish that is, but the same ones. Thanks!
      1968 GTO 467 ported Pontiwreck, 9", 5-Speed
      2000 Viper GTS, 10Lb SC, Roller Cam, Fully Ported
      2008 Viper SRT-10 Coupe, Stock, FOR SALE
      2008 Grand Cherokee, 3" OME Lift, armor/winched
      2006 Votes thanks to Acorn

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