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Thread: T-56 Clutch Master question
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11-25-2008 #1
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T-56 Clutch Master question
My clutch master cylinder bottoms out before the pedal hits the floor.
Are you guys putting some kind of stop on the floor or will it not hurt the master??
If you are any pics oif what you have done?
Thanks
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11-25-2008 #2
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If you are running the GM plastic master you will need a stop. You need to allow the master to have it's full 15/16's of stroke but with a mechanical stop built to the pedal or you will break the bottom out of the master. I built the stop at the top near the pivot point and made it adjustable.
Originally Posted by skeeters65
Mike
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11-27-2008 #3
Starting The Transformation
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I've been running it without a stop for a while (6 months)and its been fine. I guess ill have to make one before i have issues.
1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny
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11-27-2008 #4
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You never know, it could last forever. But I was warned by those in the know that if you let the master get bottomed out with no stop the bottom will fail. It is fairly simple to make a stop tab on the pedal. I made mine with a bolt threaded thru the stop so that the head of the bolt stpped the travel. With the bolt screwed in the master can fully travel and the bolt is backed out to just stop full travel. Then locked in place. Originally Posted by Shawn MacAnanny
11-27-2008 #5
Starting The Transformation
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As long as it only damages the clutch master im not concerned. The slave it much harder to replace.
1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny
11-27-2008 #6
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Worst case scenario, the plastic bottom blows out and you are stranded. The aftermarket replacements are metal and should have no such issues. Originally Posted by Shawn MacAnanny
Happy Tday.
11-27-2008 #7
Starting The Transformation
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Oh thats fine. I was going to get a Mc'leod but decided to cut and weld the stock pushrod and see if it worked and it did. Didnt cost me anything so if i gotta replace it im not too concerned. It works great for right now though.
Thanks. Do you all eat stuffing? (some call it dressing). My family hates it and i think they are so weird. I make them make a whole batch and im the only who eats it haha.1994 Z28 - 13.52@110mph 2.1 60ft T56, bolt-ons, suspension
1978 Datsun 2+2 - 6.0L LS1 swap in progress
1968 Firebird, 2820 dry- 2000 LS1, D&D Viper T56, RAM clutch/flywheel, 236/236 .651/.651 110+4LSA cam, victor JR EFI, 4150 TB, 42lbers, painless harness, Moroso 7qt pan, sfc, trac bars, 3" x pipe side exits, Telstars-30"MT streets/skinnies, mini-tub, 8.5" posi, richmond 4.56s, Hooker lLTs, Denny N20 DS, Fast dual wideband, Shotgun street scoop.
http://www.myspace.com/shawnmacananny
11-29-2008 #8
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According to ATS, anything more than 15/16" travel can damage the master cylinder. I bought one of their masters and it works great without the need for any pedal stops. Oh, and just to let you know, I was not happy with the Mcleod master I had before. The OEM style feels SO MUCH BETTER.
Andy
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