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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
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      Santa Clara, CA
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      622
      Country Flag: United States

      GM EFI Fuse Block Mounting - How To?

      I know that there are a lot of you out there that are running GM EFI/computers. I'm pretty well locked in as to WHERE the EFI wiring harness fuse block will be located (in the engine bay between the passenger wheel well and radiator support) but I'm really unclear on HOW to secure it in place. It seems like the case is made to slide/snap in to maybe a sheet metal bracket of some type, but I've never seen anyone offer anything for us aftermarket guys.... Ironworks offers something, which I have, but it's pretty heavy duty for what I'm doing and I think would need some welding anyway, which counts me out. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Is this fuse panel used by any of the OEM applications whose mounting might be able to be purloined? I'm open and anxious to hear your thoughts. Thank you very much.
      Steve

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
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      16,129
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      Steve,

      What computer do you have?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      GM EFI Fuse Block Mounting - How To?

      The simplest way we've done it is bend a piece of flat stock aluminum around the computer (foam or rubber in between) and fasten to a flat steel plate, with rivet nuts installed into it. Then you can figure out how to fasten the plate.. Weld it somewhere, make a bracket off the firewall for it, etc.
      the factory ones are ok but it's all plastic stuff designed to fit into more plastic stuff!! Lol

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
      Posts
      622
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      Thanks, Dale, I appreciate the guidance but most of the things that you are suggesting are beyond my skills and involve materials and tools that I don't have access to.... Andrew, I don't know what computer I have, but I have a picture of it, but it is the fuse block that I'm trying to mount, the computer is already tucked up under the fender.

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      Like I said, I have this Ironworks bracket, but it really isn't quite set up to work as a standalone and I think it still would require some welding... But maybe this is my best starting point?

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      Steve

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,129
      Country Flag: United States
      Steve,

      That is an E67 ECU. Looks like you are using the GMPP ECU and harness kit. Here are some cool stands that you can use for any number of things, including mounting the ECU:

      http://www.iimuchfabrication.com/fab...boss-1024.html

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
      Posts
      622
      Country Flag: United States
      Welding, welding, welding! Everyone with the welding! I'm not a welder, I don't own a welder, I don't know how to weld. (as my brother would say, I'm Jewish!) :-) Thanks, Andrew, I follow everything Mr. Parsons does and am familiar with his cool products, including his fuel tank vent I have installed in my project. BUT, even a bevy of Fab Bosses I don't think would help with this lump of a fuse panel. The only traditional mounting structure I can even see on the darned thing is the 1 tab which could be bolted to something, but that doesn't really offer a very secure connection. It looks like it is designed to slip in to a cutout maybe, with plastic fingers popping out to hold it in place. *Sigh*
      Steve

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,129
      Country Flag: United States
      Steve,

      Mine is mounted to the firewall, using the one bolt and a slip on mount. It hasn't gone anywhere in years, but I am not crazy about how it looks on the firewall. If I had to do it lever again, I would find a place for it inside the car.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      GM EFI Fuse Block Mounting - How To?

      The material you can find at menards, Home Depot etc.
      instead of using rivet nuts which require a tool, then just nut and bolt it together. Then make another bracket off the firewall using the same method.
      All you need is a drill, vise, hack saw and a hammer.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
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      622
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      Quote Originally Posted by Schwartz Performance View Post
      The material you can find at menards, Home Depot etc.
      instead of using rivet nuts which require a tool, then just nut and bolt it together. Then make another bracket off the firewall using the same method.
      All you need is a drill, vise, hack saw and a hammer.

      -Dale
      That sounds like a lot of work, Dale. Wouldn't it be easier just to weld something up?

      Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it.
      Steve

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
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      3,054
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      The fuse panel will pop out of the case. It is sort of a pain in the arse but it does come out. Now you have a plastic box that you can surface mount to anything, then snap the fuse panel back in. I have done a bunch of them that way.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
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      Quote Originally Posted by Donny
      The fuse panel will pop out of the case. It is sort of a pain in the arse but it does come out. Now you have a plastic box that you can surface mount to anything, then snap the fuse panel back in. I have done a bunch of them that way.
      Yep. That's how I do it too. It's also useful when you want to customize the wiring.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
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      Here's an example: (sorry for the welded FabBosses, lol):

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      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
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      622
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      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      Yep. That's how I do it too. It's also useful when you want to customize the wiring.
      OK, I guess that I hadn't looked at the case that closely, didn't realize that it can come apart. This gives me something that I can work with! Thanks, everyone, really appreciate it. Welded fab-bosses excused. :-)
      Steve

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      West Fargo, ND
      Posts
      16
      Country Flag: United States
      Really like this mounting. Where does the harness route on the passengers side firewall? Can't tell from the picture. I like how it is hidden. Did you route the harness through the inside of the cabin and then out again?



    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
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      Santa Clara, CA
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      622
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      Quote Originally Posted by AMack View Post
      Really like this mounting. Where does the harness route on the passengers side firewall? Can't tell from the picture. I like how it is hidden. Did you route the harness through the inside of the cabin and then out again?
      You might enjoy this thread https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...o-in-the-works
      Steve

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
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      Quote Originally Posted by AMack
      Did you route the harness through the inside of the cabin and then out again?
      No. Just down under the floor, over the frame rail, and up the wheel well. The LS9 harness is big and bulky -- it's hard to get it to do what you want. I took this one completely apart and re-positioned the wires (added some new ones, removed some others), and then convinced it to go there.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,666
      Country Flag: United States
      Steve, here are a couple of pics of how that now closed shop in Orlando did it for me. The fuse panel and PCM are mounted where the original battery used to be (now in trunk). The fuse panel is mounted on 90 degree piece of sheet metal. The pcm is mounted just behind it in the area where inner fender and outer fender transition close to each other. I thought I had taken a picture of the bracket before I reinstalled it (I added a reverse lockout wire from the PCM). The two bolts that face up (center of picture) secure the bracket to the inner fender. The PCM bracket is bent at a approx 45 degree angle. The 4 bolts (that face down) secure the pcm to the bracket. Everything seems to be secure and I like that everything is hidden out of sight. If I ever have to take the pcm out, it will take me a while but that's ok.
      Attached Images Attached Images    
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LT4 (coming)/T56 DSE suspension

      1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S convertible (442 Clone)
      LS3/4L70e, DSE suspension


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
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      10,604
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      Good stuff there... just think through maintenance and trouble shooting. I'm not much of a fan of hidden wiring. I prefer to find ways to make the wiring look good in plain sight.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
      Posts
      622
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      Hey, Chris, thanks a lot for the pix! I was able to put my PCM up under the fender in the exact same spot, I used a Rally Sport headlight relay bracket and drilled a couple of new holes in it (and a couple of new holes in the fender lip, including 1 in the wrong place :-() I'm just planning to put a short bolt in that one and tell people that it took 3 bolts to hold the bracket in place :-) If I'm understanding the picture of the fuse panel, there is an "L" shaped piece of black-painted sheet metal that is bolted to the car by the two shiny bolts in the lower-middle part of the picture (one is behind the light-blue wire)? And by the looks of things, "They Who Shall Not Be Named" used the "take the fuse panel out of the plastic box and bolt the box to the bracket" approach? That's also pretty much right where my panel will be going, too, so that really helps a lot. I'm just trying to get a feel for how to pop the fuse panel out of the plastic box, and how much of a PITA it might be.
      Steve

    20. #20
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      Sep 2010
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      Santa Clara, CA
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      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      Good stuff there... just think through maintenance and trouble shooting. I'm not much of a fan of hidden wiring. I prefer to find ways to make the wiring look good in plain sight.
      You are a better man than me. At this point, it is "That seems good enough" getting said in my garage a LOT.... I hope that's why you are a professional and I am a garage hack :-)

      Between the heater hoses, the A/C lines, and the EFI harness all kind of running loosey-goosey up under the passenger side fender, I hope that I never have an encounter with an immovable object on that side (not that any encounter is going to be a good experience). I am too much of a wimp to take the fender off and try to do it nice.
      Steve

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