Flushing Rear Axle Housing

[Mkelcy]

I had the Ford 9" rear axle housing for my '68 project Camaro powder coated, which of course involved sand blasting it to get a good clean surface for the powder coating.

When I got the housing back, I spent a lot of time cleaning it using compressed air and rags, but didn't flush it out with any liquid.

I've been thinking about it and wondering how much, if any, abrasive sand may still be in my housing and how much damage it could cause. I don't want to be in the middle of nowhere with a cooked axle or differential bearing.



The housing, third member, axles, etc. are all assembled and the rear is installed in the car. I was considering trying to flush it with a solvent or other thin liquid, but I don't want to do more damage than I'm trying to avoid.

Any thoughts? And any thoughts on how I'd go about flushing the rear end (if that's the best approach) with it installed in the car?

Finally, am I worrying about nothing?

[astroracer]

Power washer and dawn (or Simple Green). Squirt a couple of teaspoons of detergent inside each end of the housing and blast it till the bubbles disappear. This is MUCH easier with the housing on saw horses ...
Mark

[Jay@GMR]

I agree, nice WARM soapy water.........then blow that sucker out good! Really should be out of the car to clean effectively though.

[Mkelcy]

Don't you hate it when you ask a question and the answer you get back is the one you've been dreading?

Thanks for the responding. I guess I'm pulling that sucker.

[CarlC]

Don't ask the bearing guy. You won't like his answer either. ;-)

[Mkelcy]

Don't ask the bearing guy. You won't like his answer either. ;-)

Assuming there's sandblasting grit in the housing, which I've filled with differential fluid, do I need to take the third member and axles somewhere to have them cleaned as well?

[Mkelcy]

Pulled the exhaust, brakes, axles and pumpkin; sprayed the housing down with Simple Green and then had at it with the power washer. Fortunately (or not, given that I thought it was there) I hadn't filled the rear with gear oil, so no need to clean the bearings in the carrier or the axles. I'll pick up a new differential gasket tomorrow and reassemble the rear. Then I get to pull the T56 so I can swap QDs on the Viper slave cylinder.

One step forward, 3/4s of a step back.

By the way, what's the recommended fluid for a TruTrac (gear based LSD) differential?

[dontlifttoshift]

Non synthetic 85-140

What's the gasket for? I didn't know anyone used those still.

[Mkelcy]

Non synthetic 85-140

What's the gasket for? I didn't know anyone used those still.

You're suggesting I just use one of the "form a gasket" products? If that works, I'm game.

[dontlifttoshift]

That's all I have ever used. Black RTV. Run a 1/4" bead and make sure you go around all of the studs. Install pumpkin with the top and bottom nuts snug. Let the RTV kick for 15 minutes or so and then torque all nuts evenly in an alternating pattern. No leaks.......pain to take apart sometimes.