Project Mayhem version 2.0

[acegto]

One step closer!

[geberhard]

so you have a carb, why not try a carb , msd ignition, some reasonably priced headers and a pan swap. And cant traditional SBC trannys be mated to LSx? I mean gee whiz one reason I have not even gave LSx a look for either of my cars is because it costs so dang much. I mean its great some people can swing it but after engine,trans,parts, mods for parts to fit my cars we are talking 5k to 10k range and I dont really want to have that much in BOTH cars at first and be able to drive it.
So many people keep harping on LSx yet I see the prices NOT coming down at all and if anything going UP. I mean God help me but $850 to $1000 headers? Please its bad enough that swap sbc headers for my Monza are now up to almost $500, makes me glad I have my little tig welder,,Ill figure out tubing and rebuild what I need ,,or design new ones and build them.
But good luck which ever way you go.
Was wondering,,,why not figure out issue with old engine,,,might be simple fix. Seen many an engine that got ran with antifreeze for several days before owner found it and they lived after fixes.

I think you have been spending too much time on Pro-touring high dollar build threads :D I am surprised more people here are not buying complete cars and parting them out to net a zero cost powertrain plus extra change in your pocket if you buy wisely and re-sell the parts from the car. Sure the market for LS1's is hot, and the price you have on that GTO setup already out of the car is a killer deal. but the market for salvage or junked body 4th gens is not too bad 9I have been seeing them in the $2K-5K range with a lot of recouperable value. Do not want to murk the thread, but to illustrate, I picked up the beauty below cheap (bad clutch), and started parting out. IWth very little effort I have recouped most of the purchase price already and still have a long list of parts I am waiting to sell after I remove the powertrain. Thee are also other things you can use such as the big brake ls1 setup that is excellent and a fraction of the cost of other brake kits out there... Just something to think about. You can also utilize the radiator and dual fan from teh same donor car so further offload in costs...








Warning... hope this pic doe snot pollute the thread










Nothing against the MSD Carb idea, but realistically why? Simplicity is great and all, but you can have a harness built along with PCM flashing done by someone for about $400 including performance mods. Cheaper than the MSD setup, you will have likely more power and gas saving as well.

Also from your list below, there are items you can get away without (I am focusing on keeping within your budget), and still work VERY well.

[geberhard]

BTW congrats on the GTo engine that is the direction I would go based on the options you gave. I Pmes you if you are interested in selling the GTO covers.

A couple suggestions to keep within your budget.

1- do not go with the stock manifolds; instead get these headers - about $399 - I have them on my 67, look amazing, work great!! http://www.dynatechheaders.com/m_camaro_67_69.html#


2-do not go with the EFI tank - really not needed in this iteration. Option two is you can re utilize yours and add a sump for about $50 plus welding cost

3- harness and PCM - ebay has several vendors, I am actually submiting another set for build and PCM reprog for my other project, cost is about $350 with the extra tuning and custom stuff

4- tranny - are you sold on going manual or flexible for an auo with overdrive? a lot of optins here (i.e. 4l80 or a built 700r are a fraction of the cost)

5- oilpan - hummer oil pan - you cna get it new for cheap (I think in the $150 range). Can modify depending of height\stance plan - so plus cost of someone that welds alum

6- mount plates you can get new on e-bay with stock or offset mount location for about $50

Killer Camaro, good luck on the build

[Vicinity]

BTW congrats on the GTo engine that is the direction I would go based on the options you gave. I Pmes you if you are interested in selling the GTO covers.

A couple suggestions to keep within your budget.

1- do not go with the stock manifolds; instead get these headers - about $399 - I have them on my 67, look amazing, work great!! http://www.dynatechheaders.com/m_camaro_67_69.html#


2-do not go with the EFI tank - really not needed in this iteration. Option two is you can re utilize yours and add a sump for about $50 plus welding cost

3- harness and PCM - ebay has several vendors, I am actually submiting another set for build and PCM reprog for my other project, cost is about $350 with the extra tuning and custom stuff

4- tranny - are you sold on going manual or flexible for an auo with overdrive? a lot of optins here (i.e. 4l80 or a built 700r are a fraction of the cost)

5- oilpan - hummer oil pan - you cna get it new for cheap (I think in the $150 range). Can modify depending of height\stance plan - so plus cost of someone that welds alum

6- mount plates you can get new on e-bay with stock or offset mount location for about $50

Killer Camaro, good luck on the build

I really appreciate all the info you gave.

The reason I'm on the fence on the headers, is because I have ridetech's Tru Turn, and it SEVERELY limits me on both headers and an oil pan.

The EFI tank, I've tried cutting a used tank before, and it exploded. I'm very hesitant to sump out my tank, and a new one is roughly $250, I can get the Ricks Camaro tank for $550. I'm still on the fence on this one.

I'm selling the harness and PCM for about $250 (well it's listed) and Jon at PSI quoted me $700 for a brand new harness and brand new computer with his tune.

Totally have to have a T56, this is where I'm splurging my budget. Unfortunately, it's the hardest item to find, and appears it's going to be the most expensive... yay demand.

I'm so mixed on the Hummer pan. I've heard some horror stories on it because it hangs so low. It has me super nervous. Do you have any links to it being modified? If I could cut like an inch or so out of the bottom I'd be more relaxed, but I'd be puckered up driving it like that.

Here's the mount plates I've found from LS1Tech researching. http://carshop.carshopinc.com/produc...id/74328/LS1GM I'm curious as to whether I should buy offset mounts to move the engine back or not, though.

I got your PM on the Fuel covers, I'd be up for selling them, but I have no idea what they're worth. I remember back in the day, I wanted Corvette covers on my 01 Camaro LS1, and they were crazy overpriced.

[Vicinity]

Trying to plan out my fuel system right now, I'm gonna go with a Tanks Inc setup, which is $450, and has an internal Walbro pump, rated to 450 hp, off that to a Vette Reg, and from there up the 3/8 body line to the rails.

Now, as I understand it, EFI requires spec'd hose and spec'd clamps. Does it just have to exceed a PSI rating? Or is there something else I need to look at? I'd really like to use some of this black braid nylon stainless line. It's basically stainless flex line with blaid nylon on top, so its safer to cut and handle. It's rated to 250 PSI and for all oils fuels and fluids. I found some EFI rated clamps on Jegs, I plan on using those.

If you're wondering why I don't use AN fittings, I don't want to invest in a 37* flare right now, I will at some future point, when I go back and make everything look good.

[Vicinity]

While nothing too extravagent, I planned my fuel system for the update. Gotta love MSPaint.

[Vicinity]

Here's where were at. Going to get chains today to yank that old engine out, and going to try to test fit the new engine.

[ATOMonkey]

Interested in the autopsy on the old small block.

[twosaturns]

Interested in the autopsy on the old small block.

likewise. I bet it's a hairline crack in one of the heads. no big deal.

[Vicinity]

400 is out, a visual inspection shows no signs (no obvious cracks in the head or block), but the driver's side head is very oily and the copper spray I used is worn off. This is the same head that was giving me problems before and prompted the head gasket replacement.

I don't have the patience to tear the engine apart in this heat (95~ outside right now), but if I get a minute next week, I'll yank the heads back off and reinspect.

[Vicinity]

Heat is gone! So, Progress!

I got my MAST pan from Travis (Daytonayellaz), here it is bolted up.



Test fit 1:



Everything fits great, except for the alt, the alternator output bolt (?) is preventing the driverside motor mount from resting completely.



Other than that, it's fine. Any recommendations?

[Vicinity]

According to the internet, who is an expert in everything, the GTO and Fbody Alternators mount in exactly the same spot. But the Fbody alt is actually slimmer, can anyone confirm this? As it doesn't appear to be a huge topic, I've spent about 8 hours trying to search for it every different way I could think.

[Vicinity]

Ok, the Fbody alternator is actually slightly smaller and the charging lug is located in a different spot, so it will indeed work.

Also, ordered my harness/pcm from PSI.

Now looking into tank options, Tanks Inc is still at the top of my list due to budget, etc.

[Vicinity]

Ordered the Tanks Inc unit, it's nice, although, you get what you pay for. The powdercoat on the tank is cheap and chipped in the mail. Not a big issue for me, but some might like to know. Also got my wiring harness in the mail, still waiting on the PCM.

Got a picture of the alternators, so if anyone needs to know, or is curious. This problem drove me nuts, so I hope it helps someone.

[Vicinity]

Well, I can finally update my thread. Another nod to Travis, aka, Mr. Daytonayellaz, he hooked me up with that awesome Mast pan, now he has a Viper Spec T56 ready for me. Things have slowed down on this because of waiting for parts, so it didn't go as quickly as I hoped, but I still have about 30 days to meet my goal.

My PCM was lost in the mail, so PSI is sending me another which should be here this week. I've decided to go with a McLeod adapter housing for the Dodge speced Trans, and likely an LS7 flywheel. Also going with the Hooker headers since ridetech used them on the 48hr Camaro and it cleared the Tru Turn. Ordering the final parts next week.

I'll need to get a driveshaft fabbed up with a Viper yoke, any recommendations?

[PhillipM]

I don't think your going to be happy with that fuel tank... Can you say not running below a 1/2 tank of fuel? If you can, return it and call Ricks for a vaporworks tank. You will thank yourself everytime you DON'T have to put fuel in it to keep it above the evil half tank monster. Becuase it will actually work how it is supposed to. Just my opinion after doing it wrong for so many years. Okay that's all from me.

[Vicinity]

I would have gotten a Ricks Tank, but considering the cost of the tank rivals that of the cost of the engine, I cannot afford it. I'd rather have a car I can drive for a half tank than a car that sits on jackstands for another year. This tank has a tray in the tank, so it shouldn't be quite as bad as other tanks. I've heard that 1/2 empty thing about other tanks but not these. I realize they aren't going to be perfect, but it just needs to work.

[AintQik]

Dan, I'm sure there is someone local but I'm working in DC and going home to NJ on the weekends. I've got a guy up there that build all my driveshafts for cheap. 3.5" aluminum with all the good stuff is like $300. I think I paid $150 for the custom one in my 50.

[19,69camaro]

Dan,
How did the alternator fit and connect up? Did you need to modify the harness at all? Im also looking at getting a little more clearance but for different reasons. Im running a front steer rack and pinion and need to go over the top of it. Do you think there is extra room to do this?

The project looks great so far. I can't wait to see it up and running.
Aldin

[Vicinity]

Dan, I'm sure there is someone local but I'm working in DC and going home to NJ on the weekends. I've got a guy up there that build all my driveshafts for cheap. 3.5" aluminum with all the good stuff is like $300. I think I paid $150 for the custom one in my 50.

I don't mind paying some shipping for someone who knows what their doing. Mind PMing some contact info?

Dan,
How did the alternator fit and connect up? Did you need to modify the harness at all? Im also looking at getting a little more clearance but for different reasons. Im running a front steer rack and pinion and need to go over the top of it. Do you think there is extra room to do this?

The project looks great so far. I can't wait to see it up and running.
Aldin

Thanks.

Set back one inch, the GTO alternator will not clear, at stock position, it would likely be fine (can not confirm). The F-body alternator is a perfect swap (nothing require to change it out) and it cleared the subframe with barely enough room to run my pinky around it.

I bought a new harness from PSI for $499 and it fit perfect, everything was exact length and was plug and play. The harness was built for an F-body, so it had a 4 wire plug pre-installed, but only used one wire.