Help! First gen Firebird, poorboy build

[Smoker03]

If you are trying to keep that stock look and upgrade to great handling on a budget, I like your ideas for the front. I would just recommend a GW or Speedtech upper arm. The caster gain is huge. Use the G-mod since its free and the QA1s work great for the weekend warrior cruising. I am using GW rear L2R2 leafs with delalum bushings and QA1 rear shocks. It rides great and handle great. The hotchkis stuff works very well, I just feel the spring rates are a little light.

[DEIGuy38]

If your going to QA1 coil overs just to be able to adjust ride height here is another option, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-A...cer,23948.html Just weld a bolt to the top and there is already a hole behind the shock mount to bolt up in the frame. Run a shorter coil http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage...ate,59216.html and this will be as close to stock looking and as budget as you will get. Add the G-mod and your good. $70 for a pair of springs and $ 70 for a pair of adjusters get some shocks and your ready to go for much less than $ 500 for coil overs.

[Buryingthesun]

If your going to QA1 coil overs just to be able to adjust ride height here is another option, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-A...cer,23948.html Just weld a bolt to the top and there is already a hole behind the shock mount to bolt up in the frame. Run a shorter coil http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage...ate,59216.html and this will be as close to stock looking and as budget as you will get. Add the G-mod and your good. $70 for a pair of springs and $ 70 for a pair of adjusters get some shocks and your ready to go for much less than $ 500 for coil overs.

Im ok with purchasing the coilovers, Im just not looking to replace my whole subframe with a tubular aerospace designed unit. . . Its unreasonable imo and not needed to make this car handel good. Realistically I would love to have coilovers front and rear but I can do with just front and replace the rear springs with units more suited for my needs. Not to say in the future I would not upgrade the rear to coilovers, but at this point I cant drop that kind of cash into it.

[BMR Sales]

^ thank you BMR for your suggestions, I want to keep the car close to stock (parts wise) I know by just replacing bushings and old ball joints I can achive the suspension dynamics I want.

Completely understood...... are you planning on retaining the stock A-Arms, but going with Poly bushings & tall ball joints possibly?

I would be interested in the rear torque arm kit, I like the idea of moving away from leafsprings. . . my only problem with that is cost. For the price of a rear torque arm I could easlily update the rear of my car to something im comfortable with.

The cars whole theme is staying as close to the "stock-look" as possible but I would like to incorporate some of the old Trans-Am racing ideas too it.

Yes, it really boils down to what you are looking to spend vs. what you want from the car..... Leaf springs are fine for most builds, but as described by our very own R&D manager in the CHP article they are limited by design:

"Leaf springs were standard fare in many muscle cars, and have been around for over a century. Their simplistic design, ease of packaging, and economic advantages make them ideal for a variety of applications. While they have had their place in the automotive industry, that time is almost over. Even light-duty trucks have switched to link-style suspension systems due to the ride quality advantages associated with them. A leaf spring by design is expected to support the weight of the chassis, limit axlewrap, control lateral and braking forces, and maintain a consistent wheelbase under acceleration and braking. Unfortunately, leaf springs perform all of these functions adequately at best. It’s just too much to expect out of a single component. Over the years, enthusiasts and racers have tweaked leaf-spring suspensions in an effort to increase handling and traction abilities. High-rate leaf springs combined with adjustable shocks, a sway bar, and a Watt’s linkage can work really well on a road course, but it does so at the expense of ride quality. Additionally, the car will still have axlewrap problems and minimal adjustment capabilities."

Im ok with purchasing the coilovers, Im just not looking to replace my whole subframe with a tubular aerospace designed unit. . . Its unreasonable imo and not needed to make this car handel good.

Your are absolutely correct that the aftermarket Sub-Frames albeit stunning in design the advantages/dollar are not what they were a few years ago.

Realistically I would love to have coilovers front and rear but I can do with just front and replace the rear springs with units more suited for my needs. Not to say in the future I would not upgrade the rear to coilovers, but at this point I cant drop that kind of cash into it.

Our coilover conversion kit is very affordable at around $150 + cost of coilover of choice. It will give you more travel than the Pro-Coil kit and the ability to remove w/o touching the lower ball joints. We sell the QA1 Pro-Coil as a great alternative if you would like a simple no-mod coil-over set up as well.

It simply boils down to what you are willing to do, what you want from the car and if you have a suspension budget in mind.

[Buryingthesun]

Our coilover conversion kit is very affordable at around $150 + cost of coilover of choice. It will give you more travel than the Pro-Coil kit and the ability to remove w/o touching the lower ball joints. We sell the QA1 Pro-Coil as a great alternative if you would like a simple no-mod coil-over set up as well.

It simply boils down to what you are willing to do, what you want from the car and if you have a suspension budget in mind.

I am quite interested in this set-up, I will be in contact

[BMR Sales]

Sounds like a plan...... I look forward to helping you out.