Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 20 of 24

    Hybrid View

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      MusicCity
      Posts
      477
      There you go - no pressure switch to ever leak or blow out, saving you from the hassle of having to rework any of your brake plumbing, and providing a fully adjustable modern solution = true ProTouring ingenuity. I do suggest that you come up with some sort of positive pedal stop, as your foot slipping off the side of the pedal may cause the switch to get hammered - maybe a hard plastic or aluminum collar of just the right size to go over the remaining exposed plastic threads of the brake light switch? (dispersing possible pedal hammer effect to the steel brake lamp switch mounting nut / metal area of the pedal bracket instead of the plastic switch housing) or a dedicated fabbed up separate positive stop of alternate convenient mounting...

      I remember a time MANY years ago when I had a manual brake pedal rod fall out of the back of the MC in a rigged up build I was rolling - not funny to find a free swinging pedal under your foot in rush hour traffic! Good thing I was in the outside lane and dodged off into the shoulder and popped the trans into reverse (DOH!)



      There IS a difference - Thank you for choosing Hydratech!

      Paul M. Clark
      Founder / Master Engineer

      Hydratech Braking Systems ®
      www.hydratechbraking.com


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Greenwood, SC
      Posts
      1,611
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Hydratech View Post
      There you go - no pressure switch to ever leak or blow out, saving you from the hassle of having to rework any of your brake plumbing, and providing a fully adjustable modern solution = true ProTouring ingenuity. I do suggest that you come up with some sort of positive pedal stop, as your foot slipping off the side of the pedal may cause the switch to get hammered - maybe a hard plastic or aluminum collar of just the right size to go over the remaining exposed plastic threads of the brake light switch? (dispersing possible pedal hammer effect to the steel brake lamp switch mounting nut / metal area of the pedal bracket instead of the plastic switch housing) or a dedicated fabbed up separate positive stop of alternate convenient mounting...

      I remember a time MANY years ago when I had a manual brake pedal rod fall out of the back of the MC in a rigged up build I was rolling - not funny to find a free swinging pedal under your foot in rush hour traffic! Good thing I was in the outside lane and dodged off into the shoulder and popped the trans into reverse (DOH!)

      Paul, you had me convinced with your first post.... The less fittings a hydraulic system has, the less places for failure....

      Here is what I came up with for a pedal stop ( [1] 1/2-20 spare lug nut & [2] 1/2 machine bushings)

      JC Scott





    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com