Pressure activated brake light switch question......

[cheapthrillz]

Nope, you got it right. Just didn't understand why you needed a return stop. usually with manual brakes the pushrod is in so deep the pedal would hit the dash or something else before it could disengage the piston. However I have seen applications where it can come apart there and those would certainly require some sort of a stop on the return side. 55 chevys had a rubber bumper up there that did the job quietly.

Since the pedal stop catches the push rod the instant before the pushrod end comes into contact with the pushrod retaining washer, it gives me a warm and fuzzy comfort feeling lol. This way there is less hammering force on the washer that retains the MC pushrod...

My uncle bought a 65 LTD nearly new. It was special ordered for the dealer owners wife and she drove it very little for about a year and then my uncle bought it. The coolest part about the car is the factory 8track player. There are even FORD 8 tracks in the glovebox. The frame rotted away in the front (stupid midwest) and started to come apart so it got parked in the garage. That was about 35 years ago and there it sits with about 40,000 miles on the clock. Despite the frame rotting the sheetmetal is pretty damn decent. The point is, I have always thought those cars had cool lines and a great roof profile and everytime I see your rendering I want to go get it and give it a makeover......someday.

Anyways, glad it worked.

Donny

DO IT!!!! It's not hard to find a "new" (non rotted) frame around here for cheap. Stripped out, stroked 390, fiberglass front and rear bumpers, fiberglass inner fenders, fiberglass outer fenders, fiberglass hood, and some 15" steelies with some meat on them, and they would make a great road course car! I think you could legitimately get the car into the 3200# range. And boy would that turn heads..... "And here comes Donny around turn 6 in a 1965 Boston Whaler" lol

[cheapthrillz]

There you go - no pressure switch to ever leak or blow out, saving you from the hassle of having to rework any of your brake plumbing, and providing a fully adjustable modern solution = true ProTouring ingenuity. I do suggest that you come up with some sort of positive pedal stop, as your foot slipping off the side of the pedal may cause the switch to get hammered - maybe a hard plastic or aluminum collar of just the right size to go over the remaining exposed plastic threads of the brake light switch? (dispersing possible pedal hammer effect to the steel brake lamp switch mounting nut / metal area of the pedal bracket instead of the plastic switch housing) or a dedicated fabbed up separate positive stop of alternate convenient mounting...

I remember a time MANY years ago when I had a manual brake pedal rod fall out of the back of the MC in a rigged up build I was rolling - not funny to find a free swinging pedal under your foot in rush hour traffic! Good thing I was in the outside lane and dodged off into the shoulder and popped the trans into reverse (DOH!)

Paul, you had me convinced with your first post.... The less fittings a hydraulic system has, the less places for failure....

Here is what I came up with for a pedal stop ( [1] 1/2-20 spare lug nut & [2] 1/2 machine bushings)

[Hydratech®]

Hmmm - the ol' lug nut trick!

That works!

That type of ingenuity is likely to show up in the rest of your build - git 'er done!

[cheapthrillz]

Hmmm - the ol' lug nut trick!

That works!

That type of ingenuity is likely to show up in the rest of your build - git 'er done!

Nothing like a little redneck ingenuity! lol

The heights of the lugnut+jamnut+bushing = the same height as the well nut used befor

Reinstalled the pedal yesterday, put some new wire connectors on the existing wires, and everything works flawlessly....

Thanks again for all of your help!