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    Thread: Half-Breed

    1. #201
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Been a while since I posted any progress. Car has been on the rotisserie for quite a while now. just had the body blasted so I can finish up some of the remaining seam welding. epoxy primer is next.
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      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)


    2. #202
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Mesa, AZ
      Posts
      637
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Zachalanche View Post
      This sums everything up well! hahaha

      Great work on your car! I always love to see Mustangs getting the PT treatment, they had the best looking bodies of any of the muscle cars from the 60's
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    3. #203
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Location
      Abbotsford, B.C.
      Posts
      297
      Country Flag: Canada
      Love the car keep up with the good work!

      I have a odd question to ask, can you measure the mounting holes on the door mirrors. I want to use them on my project, but no one I know has a 69/70 Mustang.

    4. #204
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Quote Originally Posted by Spork82 View Post
      Love the car keep up with the good work!

      I have a odd question to ask, can you measure the mounting holes on the door mirrors. I want to use them on my project, but no one I know has a 69/70 Mustang.
      I'll try to get a measurement next time I am working on the car.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    5. #205
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Wichita, KS
      Posts
      375
      Country Flag: United States
      i have a 2-part question.

      1.Are you going to be street driving this. if yes....
      2.What are you doing for a turn signal switch

      It's a personal dilemma i have had for months haha
      67 GTO, LS2, T56

      WILWOOD, FORGELINE, RIDETECH

    6. #206
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Quote Originally Posted by 67goatman455 View Post
      i have a 2-part question.

      1.Are you going to be street driving this. if yes....
      2.What are you doing for a turn signal switch

      It's a personal dilemma i have had for months haha
      Yes. I planned on mounting a switch on the console, and I also have an idea that uses magnetic switches and relays to make the signals self cancelling. Honestly, I never really liked the ergonomics of having the turn signal lever on the steering column. I feel like my right hand is free more often than my left.

      or I could just eliminate the turn signal all together. I already feel like I am the only person in Utah who uses it.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    7. #207
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Uhmmmm, but of information while GM paid for the design of the LS, its more Ford design than most actually understand.
      The heads CAN be fitted to sbf. Know a guy with aftermarket block/rotating assembly with LS heads, makes well over 900 HP, with pair of eBay turbos.
      Minor mods, near drop on.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    8. #208
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Quote Originally Posted by Spork82 View Post
      Love the car keep up with the good work!

      I have a odd question to ask, can you measure the mounting holes on the door mirrors. I want to use them on my project, but no one I know has a 69/70 Mustang.
      screw holes are 7" apart
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    9. #209
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States
      awesome build dude. keep up the good work!!
      I would like to pick your brain a little if I may??

      I am, as you were, doing my homework and preparing for a build. I have a 68 fastback with a super tired 302. Ive always loved the fastbacks but no nothing in detail of ford drivetrain other than their nastalgia. I also have been wanting to do an ls swap, problably turbo, in something so ive been planning on the fback. Ive picked up an ly6 6.0 with the 6l90 trans and a 9 inch for the rear.

      I was figuring on doing a must II front until I read your build and saw that you removed one!. so my question(s) is why the negativity on MustII, and what setup did you go with, and why? second was your rear end suspension choice? Did a marvellous job btw, but why the long centered lift bar? why not triangulated 4link, or an independant swap? Not knocking or picking whatsoever, just trying to figure out the correct path I should take for mine??

      Oh and love the chevy ford comments...... wasnt hotrodding based on taking the best parts available putting them into what you could and going as fast as possible? wether it was in a straight line? up a windy mountain side? or even in open water?!?

      I have had many more chevys than any other make so I guess that makes me a chevy guy right?! I love the 64 fairlane and had one, love the fbacks, chevelles, roadrunners, chargers, novas, and belevederes! so what is my "classification"? I am catching so much slack as well here for one having a mustang and then for putting an ls in it. Long live the haters LOL

    10. #210
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Quote Originally Posted by madpony View Post
      awesome build dude. keep up the good work!!
      I would like to pick your brain a little if I may??

      I am, as you were, doing my homework and preparing for a build. I have a 68 fastback with a super tired 302. Ive always loved the fastbacks but no nothing in detail of ford drivetrain other than their nastalgia. I also have been wanting to do an ls swap, problably turbo, in something so ive been planning on the fback. Ive picked up an ly6 6.0 with the 6l90 trans and a 9 inch for the rear.

      I was figuring on doing a must II front until I read your build and saw that you removed one!. so my question(s) is why the negativity on MustII, and what setup did you go with, and why? second was your rear end suspension choice? Did a marvellous job btw, but why the long centered lift bar? why not triangulated 4link, or an independant swap? Not knocking or picking whatsoever, just trying to figure out the correct path I should take for mine??

      Oh and love the chevy ford comments...... wasnt hotrodding based on taking the best parts available putting them into what you could and going as fast as possible? wether it was in a straight line? up a windy mountain side? or even in open water?!?

      I have had many more chevys than any other make so I guess that makes me a chevy guy right?! I love the 64 fairlane and had one, love the fbacks, chevelles, roadrunners, chargers, novas, and belevederes! so what is my "classification"? I am catching so much slack as well here for one having a mustang and then for putting an ls in it. Long live the haters LOL
      After both shock towers cracked and the upper a-arm mounts displaced beyond repair, I subscribed to the school of thought that mustang shock towers should be removed, and purchased the mustang II suspension. The result of the installation was an extremely limited suspension travel, narrower wheelbase, smaller brakes and relocation of the engine 2" forward and .5" to the right. I later learned that the mustang II suspension has weak spindles and not the best suspension geometry which didn't matter much since it seemed like it was riding on the bump stops 90% of the time. To add insult to injury the kit came with poor quality steering U-joints that were constantly working their way loose. If I had had more money at the time I could have remedied some of these issues, but once I finally did have the money to take care of this I just wanted the whole thing out of there. Honestly if I would have just replaced the shock towers and reinforced them, I could have done a lot more with he stock suspension and I would be enjoying driving the car right now instead of posting pictures of a bare chassis on the internet. But one thing led to another and poor suspension and a bad set of piston rings turned my car into a never ending project.

      I purchased the front and rear suspension together from Griggs racing after seeing a similarly equipped 70 mustang at miller motorsports park. This was the first time I had seen any car running 315's as front tires and I had to have it. hind sight is always 20/20, and I think I would build something of my own design if I were to start the project today, but the Griggs suspension is well built and I think should provide good results. Unfortunately Griggs also thinks this is the case and their prices are set accordingly.

      I definitely wanted to keep the solid axle in the rear. most of this decision is out of stubbornness, and me wanting to prove to the BMW owners that a solid axle car can corner. The design is simple and a 9in rear can handle a lot of power for the price. Also, although my car isn't exactly a trans -am racecar replica, I wanted it to have that feel to it.

      If you want my opinion about front ends (and all it is, is an opinion) I would stay away from the mustang II suspensions, and I would also stay away from global west (I have found they are good at making attractive powder coated parts that don't work well together.) don't underestimate what you can do with the original front end on your car. it may not be the best, but it's not the worst, and it's definitely the cheapest.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    11. #211
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States
      thanks for your input dude,I really appreciate it. I'm all turned around now lol. Ive driven the car a little with a rebuilt front suspension and dont like the " feel" of it, bumpsteer mostly I suppose. Perhaps just a rack and pinion and modified shock towers will do for me?? My chevelle with a semi-bad steering box feels better than this so I sort of assumed that it was a bad design, I know the early novas have a very similar design that is usually removed asap. Good luck on your build I definatly will be watching from the sidelines!! thanks again

    12. #212
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Atlanta GA
      Posts
      7,477
      zach aint lying..

      hell the Guldstrand mod essentially is a drastic improvement in geometry in early camaros which most people just go and buy tubular arms.. just to do pretty much the same thing.. I guess they would like to knitting circle their new parts.. lol.

    13. #213
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      3
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Vengeance, so basically do the shelby upper control arm relocate? What about bump steer? switch over to a rack setup? It has a horrible leaky "rebuilt" power steering unit now. My dad had the cars front end rebuilt before I got it and its not what I would call right. from what ive read the parts for the steering box and slave cyl dont do alot? All im looking to do is make the front end right ( by todays standards i guess) or comfortable to drive, and clean up the shock tower area for some clearance. Not at all trying to skimp on work, I still have a rotisserie so was planning on full resto, motor swap, mini tub rear upgrade, wiring ,etc. Just not familiar with whats right and/or available, and none of my chevy buddies have a clue either LOL! Thats Still funny, Mustang II converion is still looked upon as "THE WAY to go" on upgraded suspennsion. closest outside advice was my dad telling me to watch a couple of Chip Foose buildss and see what he used LOL...might not be a bad Idea. Thanks again guys. I ll start a thread once I get some traction!!

    14. #214
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      definitely for the black stripe over the white, matches the wheels better
      67 Camaro CAM/C-prepared autocross Project
      72 Nova Street/Drag Car Project

    15. #215
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Beaufort,SC
      Posts
      329
      Country Flag: United States
      Sweet Pony the 315s are the focus point on this build. And guys who want to keep the stock front clip use the GTO pan like us 1st and 2nd gen NOVA guys been doing. There is a Mustang on here like that. Keep up the updates.

    16. #216
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Quote Originally Posted by madpony View Post
      Thanks Vengeance, so basically do the shelby upper control arm relocate? What about bump steer? switch over to a rack setup? It has a horrible leaky "rebuilt" power steering unit now. My dad had the cars front end rebuilt before I got it and its not what I would call right. from what ive read the parts for the steering box and slave cyl dont do alot? All im looking to do is make the front end right ( by todays standards i guess) or comfortable to drive, and clean up the shock tower area for some clearance. Not at all trying to skimp on work, I still have a rotisserie so was planning on full resto, motor swap, mini tub rear upgrade, wiring ,etc. Just not familiar with whats right and/or available, and none of my chevy buddies have a clue either LOL! Thats Still funny, Mustang II converion is still looked upon as "THE WAY to go" on upgraded suspennsion. closest outside advice was my dad telling me to watch a couple of Chip Foose buildss and see what he used LOL...might not be a bad Idea. Thanks again guys. I ll start a thread once I get some traction!!
      Borgeson makes a power steering box that eliminates the need for that leaky cylinder. Most of the rack and pinion setups available to work with the original mustang front end seem to be somewhat of a forced fit. they reduce turning radius, don't reduce bump steer, and may even cause header fitment issues. If you are really wanting to have rack and pinion steering, you probably should replace the whole front end. you can still get good reliable results out of a steering box, and you can get bump steer correcting kits from summit for a reasonable price that replace the outer tie rod ends.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    17. #217
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659

      Caught up in the details

      Things have been moving at record low speeds lately. After the sand blasting was complete I did a thorough walk around and made a list of all the loose ends that needed to be wrapped up be fore I started to paint. Turned out to be a bit more work left than I expected.

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      Luckily I live in a dry climate because this car has been bare for way too long.

      I also decided to lower the seat pans about 3/4" to give me some more head room.
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      here's a quick example of the types of random repairs I've been dealing with. this area had been previously damaged and brazed back together. I tried to give it a more factory look.

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      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    18. #218
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659

      Finally! Primer.

      Car has been completely bare for near 9 months now. luckily no rust. here it is with a coat of epoxy primer.
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      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    19. #219
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Pennsylvania
      Posts
      254
      Country Flag: United States

    20. #220
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      659
      Spent a couple hours with the seam sealer. still got a bit left to do. I wanted to make sure all my welds on the wheel tubs were well protected just in case there were any pinholes. I almost forgot how much I modified them till I put the sealer on.
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      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

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