Wheel alignment problems!

[David Pozzi]

I think you may have a worn idler arm, ball joint, A arm bushing or some other problem that is affecting toe. Another item to check is if the car is traveling straight down the road, if the rear axle slips on one side in the rubber spring pads, and is no longer sitting square to the car, then you wind up correcting by steering to one side.
Here are my alignment specs from my web page. You will likely only be able to max caster out to around 3 degrees positive, then set camber to .25 neg, toe in to 1/8". Monitor toe in if you have new springs, as the car settles, the toe will change to toe out so you will have to re-set it. You really can't do alignment or toe settings without turn-tables. I've cheated and tried to do it without them and had terrible results.
David

ALIGNMENT SPECS
David's Specs

Caster 5 deg positive, or as much positive as you can achieve up to 5 deg, can use .5 deg additional positive on the passenger side to compensate for road crown. A common setting would be: LF 5 deg positive, RF 5.5 deg positive.
Camber -.25 degee for mostly freeway driving,
-.5 for street and frequent hard cornering or mountain roads,
-1 deg for street, Autocross, and Open Track, this will wear the inner tire tread if you drive a lot of freeways. I use -1.5 deg quite often on cars that we frequently autox and do only a little street driving. you can use even more if tire temps show outside edge of tread is hotter than inside after a track run. If the inner edges of tread show excessive wear, use less neg camber. An autox only car would use -2 to -3 degrees. If you have not done the Guldstrand mod, you can be more agressive with negative camber and increase neg camber by another -.25 to -.5 degrees.
Toe in, 1/16" to 1/8".

Guldstrand recommends the following specs for a "touring car":



Caster: 3 - 4 degrees positive (+) PS = more, manual steer less.
Camber: 1/4 to 1/2 degrees negative (-)
With upper a-arm relocation Camber: 0 degrees
Toe-in: 0 - 1/8 inch

Guldstrand recomends for racing:

(assumes "Guldstrand mod" is done)

Caster 3 to 4 1/8 deg pos
Camber 1.5 to 2 deg neg
Toe in 1/8" out to 1/8" in (I would try 1/8" out first) more neg camber = more toe out.

Herb Adams recomends these alignment specs for the street:

1 degree positive caster ( I would use 3.5 degrees if PS)
1 degree negative camber.
1/16" toe in

Stock factory alignment specs:

Caster +1/2 deg
Camber + 1/4 to 1/2 deg
Toe-in 1/8" to 1/4" (Radial tires need less toe-in, use 1/8" or less for them)

IN ALL POWER STEERING EQUIPPED CASES, USE AS MUCH POSITIVE CASTER AS YOU CAN ACHIEVE UP TO 5.5 DEGREES POSITIVE MAXIMUM. MORE CASTER HELPS TILT THE WHEEL INWARD WHEN CORNERING, HELPS REDUCE BUMPSTEER BY LOWERING THE TIE ROD ENDS. MANUAL STEER CARS WILL REQUIRE MORE EFFORT AT HIGH CASTER SETTINGS, YOU MAY HAVE TO USE LESS.