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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CarQz17 View Post
      I think the butt weld gap is .040 correct? How do you recommend holding the panel in place? Magnets? Any suggestions welcome.
      I shoot for the narrowest gap I can get and that usually holds it in place if I cannot use vice grip clamps to hold it. I know this goes against the gap being the same width as the thickness of the material but I found that did not work too well for me.

      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2010
      Location
      Detroit, MI
      Posts
      62
      Country Flag: United States
      Cut out the floor on the passenger side. I'm going to have to replace the under seat reinforcements before I can do the floor pans. Not sure if jigging the car is necessary for this part of the process since it may move the front mounting point of the leaf spring.


      I've gotten all of the filler and paint off of the center of the tail panel. Looks like someone backed into something just off the passenger side of the license plate. I may be able to save it but since the edges are iffy, I may just go ahead and replace the whole thing.


      I am also thinking about either 80% quarters or just skins since I am in such a small space, don't want to take the glass out, and do not have the option of getting the car blasted so I could cut on the sail panel. Opinions?
      1969 Firebird
      Champagne taste and a Kool-aid budget...




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