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    1. #1
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      What Spring Rate for Road Racing

      I have a '69 Camaro With Global West arms and conventional spring set up. If you were strictly road racing car what rate spring would you use. I am contemplating 850 lb right now.


      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly


    2. #2
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      depends, how does your current set up feel?


      vince
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    3. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      depends, how does your current set up feel?


      vince
      I,m running about 715 lb(cut a coil off of 650 lb) and it felt fine road racing but pushed in my first ever autocross.

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    4. #4
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      Going to a heavier front spring will make it push even more to loosen it up you need a softer front spring/bar or a stiffer rear spring/bar.
      Sean

      The difference between stupidity and genius.... genius has limits

    5. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by LSx_88_Ciera View Post
      Going to a heavier front spring will make it push even more to loosen it up you need a softer front spring/bar or a stiffer rear spring/bar.
      Hmmm... Global West is telling me to go to a 800 lb spring. I've tried a higher rate leaf spring and I was too loose.

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    6. #6
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      Are they aware that the car is pushing?
      I don't know why they would suggest a stiffer front considering going softer on the end that needs traction is tuning 101.
      Do you have provisions to adjust the rate of your rear bar?
      Have you tried reducing air pressure in the front tires a pound or 2?
      Is the push on entry, mid, exit?
      Sean

      The difference between stupidity and genius.... genius has limits

    7. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by LSx_88_Ciera View Post
      Are they aware that the car is pushing?
      I don't know why they would suggest a stiffer front considering going softer on the end that needs traction is tuning 101.
      Do you have provisions to adjust the rate of your rear bar?
      Have you tried reducing air pressure in the front tires a pound or 2?
      Is the push on entry, mid, exit?
      I'm thinking autocross and road racing are two different animals. Slow speed thrusts into tight turns with alot of torque when auto crossing, and in road racing, a continuos flow to where it is much easier to set up for a turn and have chassis pointed in right direction.

      Although, I was not prepared for the autocross event(due to thought it was gonna rain and then last minute jumped in my car and showed up late)so I didn't bring my air tank or tire pressure gauge and when I borrowed a pressure gauge noticed i could have taken a few pounds out of front tires.

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    8. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by Gitter Dun View Post
      I'm thinking autocross and road racing are two different animals. Slow speed thrusts into tight turns with alot of torque when auto crossing, and in road racing, a continuos flow to where it is much easier to set up for a turn and have chassis pointed in right direction.

      Although, I was not prepared for the autocross event(due to thought it was gonna rain and then last minute jumped in my car and showed up late)so I didn't bring my air tank or tire pressure gauge and when I borrowed a pressure gauge noticed i could have taken a few pounds out of front tires.
      Personally, I feel autocross is much harder to get a good working car. From brakes to feel. I really like the feel of my car on the road course. Going fast in autocross is always going to be a compromise. I really think autocross calls for a really stiff car to keep the body roll out of it. You watch that TCI camaro. That thing looks suspension less. It didn't fair so great on the big track set up that way.
      Todd

    9. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
      Personally, I feel autocross is much harder to get a good working car. From brakes to feel. I really like the feel of my car on the road course. Going fast in autocross is always going to be a compromise. I really think autocross calls for a really stiff car to keep the body roll out of it. You watch that TCI camaro. That thing looks suspension less. It didn't fair so great on the big track set up that way.
      I couldn't agree with you more, and I'm not willing to compromise my road course set up for an autocross set up, but I think an easy fix/compromise would be rear adjustability with sway bar.

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by Gitter Dun View Post
      I couldn't agree with you more, and I'm not willing to compromise my road course set up for an autocross set up, but I think an easy fix/compromise would be rear adjustability with sway bar.
      Without a doubt. I just put a rear bar on mine and it makes a world of difference. Mine has 3 holes for adjustment. The cloest hole is useless since it's way to much. The middle hole really makes the car super loose and the front hole is really nice on the road course. I haven't tried autocross this way yet but feel I can adjust the feel with tire pressure and shock adjustments. I'll find out tomorrow. What are you running in the back?
      Todd

    11. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
      Personally, I feel autocross is much harder to get a good working car. From brakes to feel. I really like the feel of my car on the road course. Going fast in autocross is always going to be a compromise. I really think autocross calls for a really stiff car to keep the body roll out of it. You watch that TCI camaro. That thing looks suspension less. It didn't fair so great on the big track set up that way.

      I wouldn't use the TCI Camaros performance on the big track to compare autocross vs road course suspension settings. I think the powertrain played a bigger role in that variance than the suspension did. That car ran a 1:57 with a first time road course driver using an engine making a whopping 347whp through a 700R4.
      '04 IS300 VVTi GTE swap GT35R etc (dead tranny - looking for LS swap)
      '63 Street Fighter Nova(Sold)
      '06 Magnum SRT8 KIA 10-25-13

    12. #12
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      I meant to put that in my post about him being down on power. It sure does look racey in autocross.
      Todd

    13. #13
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      You could be ok right now up front. What leafs are you running out back? You could run an adjustable rear bar. I know Global West doesn't recommend one, but it IS a tuning device. Adjustability is key. And if you find you don't need it, you can always disconnect it or take it off.
      Allen Ortega
      Meanstreets Performance Fabrication

      ---------------------------------------

      Vegetarians are the reason for global warming

    14. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by zbugger View Post
      You could be ok right now up front. What leafs are you running out back? You could run an adjustable rear bar. I know Global West doesn't recommend one, but it IS a tuning device. Adjustability is key. And if you find you don't need it, you can always disconnect it or take it off.
      I'm running Global West rear leafs and had them de arch them an extra inch. I starte with Hotchkis rear leafs and they had me loose as hell. I think the stikier the tires and the more power you definitely need a rear bar contrary to what Global West says. I'm due for front springs cuz my front left is sagging from road course abuse so i was thinking of stiffer springs. Guess I'll find out at Buttonwillow June 5th. Who makes an adjustable rear bar?

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    15. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by Gitter Dun View Post
      Who makes an adjustable rear bar?
      Hellwig
      Sean

      The difference between stupidity and genius.... genius has limits

    16. #16
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      I agree with LSx 88,

      Generally you want to soften up the end that doesn't have grip....ie. the front is pushing, so you would take some rate away from that end or add some rate to the rear. Depending on how much it's pushing.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    17. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      I agree with LSx 88,

      Generally you want to soften up the end that doesn't have grip....ie. the front is pushing, so you would take some rate away from that end or add some rate to the rear. Depending on how much it's pushing.
      Thanks guys, your input definitely influenced my decision. I will probably stay with the same rate spring up front rather than go to 800-850 lb and start shopping for the Helwig sway bar.

      If it all goes to hell I'll just blame you guys, LOL. JK

      Anybody have any photos of a Hellwig Install? Do I use the solid or hollow bar?

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    18. #18
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      Mar 2002
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      Redwood City, CA
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      You can use the hollow bar to save a little weight. I know the Hotchkis rear bar is three way adjustable and the install is pretty simple. The Hellwig should be similar.
      Allen Ortega
      Meanstreets Performance Fabrication

      ---------------------------------------

      Vegetarians are the reason for global warming

    19. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by zbugger View Post
      You can use the hollow bar to save a little weight. I know the Hotchkis rear bar is three way adjustable and the install is pretty simple. The Hellwig should be similar.
      Cool thanks. I just pulled springs and one is 1/2" shorter than other. Thats what you get from 3 years of hard driving from a set of global west springs. I started getting slight tire rub lok to lok on fender on sag side. Good side spring length is 12" and I'm running 275 40 17's with stock subframe. Now I,m going to see if Eiback has springs I need, if not, back to global west.

      Gaetano Cosentino
      Dont Drive Faster Than Your Angels Can Fly

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Mar 2002
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      Redwood City, CA
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      I hate Eibach springs. Especially in a muscle car application. Don't ask me why, but I do. I'd recommend going back to Gobal, or even try a Hotchkis spring out. Quite a few here have had success with Hotchkis front springs. I think Mary has been running Hotchkis front with Global Cat5 rears with plenty of success. Oh, AND a rear bar. My car is slowly becoming a copy....
      Allen Ortega
      Meanstreets Performance Fabrication

      ---------------------------------------

      Vegetarians are the reason for global warming

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