Relay box

[TnBlkC230WZ]

pickup a fuse box from a lt1 4th gen. thanks for the lead, just about exactly what I needed. I need to find a cover. The junk was hit in the front and might have had the cover inside which was full of stuff or on the ground covered in snow.

again, thanks for the lead.

what are the terminal #'s? typical 56 series terminals are a tad thinner. look like 630 metric pack and AF for the fuses??

Termals will either be 280 or 630 if you got if from a GM car. Do you have a pic? If it has maxi-fuses, it will use 800. The most common are 280 for relays and fuses. They are easy to measure. 2.8mm is 280 and 1/4 inch is 630. Check the link to the catalog I posted above. If it has 280 buss bars, you will need to know if they 15 mm or 16.2 mm. On the 280 terminals, you will also need to know if they are tanged or tangless.

[Takid455]

the relay ones are 1/4" and spec out to be 630 w/ tangs according to measurements on the drawings like these: delphi # -12052227, 12015865, 12015864. (PG 7.5). I found terminals for 18-16, 16-14 and 12 awg at mouser.

having trouble locating the fuse holders. mouser does not list the numbers in the delphi catalog 12131446 and 12131456. (PG 7.7) they are stated to be AF female terminals unsealed. any help to located some is appreciated. being this is soured from a Firebird, I'm assuming everything to be delphi, no? the picture provided in the delphi catalog and what I have appear to be similar.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

having trouble locating the fuse holders. mouser does not list the numbers in the delphi catalog 12131446 and 12131456. (PG 7.7) they are stated to be AF female terminals unsealed. any help to located some is appreciated. being this is soured from a Firebird, I'm assuming everything to be delphi, no? the picture provided in the delphi catalog and what I have appear to be similar.

I believe the first part number should be 12131446. I searched my usually sources for them and nobody seams to stock them. There are a couple of options

1. Call Mouser and ask for a quote. They can get anything in the Delphi catalogs. The only down side is you have to purchase the quantity Delphi ships in. Sometimes it is 25 and sometimes it is 10,000. The quote is free, so I would ask.

2. Since you know what car it came out of, go to the Chevy dealer and see if you can order them

3. Here is the link to the technical drawing for the predessor part number. http://connectors2.delphi.com/dcsgdm...7.m001.tif.pdf. It looks like the same terminal sold in the Delphi's 4 terminal ATO fuse blocks kits. Painless sells them for a painful price. However, many autoparts stores sell them for about $5.

[astroracer]

I used a "Project Box" from Radio Shack to hide the relays for my trucks head and driving lights. I painted the box body color and it disappears on the fender.

These are less than 10 bucks and R.S. has a number of various sizes.
Mark S.

[garner67]

I used a stainless steel access panel from a plumbing supply company, which I mounted in my fender apron. Then, I fabricated a metal box that attaches to the panel.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

You could also use a NEMA 4X box. They can be submerged and sprayed directly with a hose. Some have cool clear covers. I used one for my fan controller

[sunkistcamaro]

I used a stainless steel access panel from a plumbing supply company, which I mounted in my fender apron. Then, I fabricated a metal box that attaches to the panel.

Very nice!

[H2Ogbodies]

You know, a lot of times when I'm bored I just stroll through my local yards and check newer stuff out-I usually find a nice way the factory is integrating things like junctions, relay/fuse panels, etc. and whenever I see something I like, I incorporate the idea on every future project-whether it's for me or a customer. That Chevelle had a ton of stuff wiring wise-I basically built a harness on my wiring table and used prolly 25 different spools or wire just to put it all together. Then I tie in all the required circuits, test the harness outside of the car, then in it goes-then I cut/relabel as I go. I gave the customer a QuarkXPress document page layout showing the whole system. I have fun with wiring so for me it's no biggie but you gotta have a well thought out plan if you do your own wiring. This car has all the normal aftermarket doo-dads but a lot of stuff had aux. controls, over-rides AND had to have a total kill switch from either inside or outside of the vehicle AND I designed an anti-theft circuit for it too. My advice is to lay your plans all out on paper and make SURE they make sense on paper prior to pulling any wire. For example, with this guy-he wanted use his shifter button to both hit the nitrous off the line AND release the transbrake-I said I could do that but it may not be the best scenario...so after I went through the motions in air (literally!) and imagined what it would be like to leave the line hard with about 1000 HP at the tires with ONLY ONE HAND on the wheel while he released the 'brake, I strongly (but nicely) suggested we should think about safety and control and have the trans brake activate via the floor mounted dimmer switch...this way, you have both hands on the wheel and use the button on the shifter for the solenoids. So on paper the wiring all had to make sense. Once it all comes together, it's always great seeing it all work as intended with safety precautions planned in as well.