Results 1 to 7 of 7
Thread: Rear end clamp for brake lines
-
10-18-2009 #1
Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Posts
- 723
Rear end clamp for brake lines
This fall/winter I plan on running the brake lines on the car. Since I already have the rear end powder coated, I can't weld on any brackets to hold the brake lines onto it. What are you guys using to secure the brake lines to the rear housing??
-
10-18-2009 #2
Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Durham,NC
- Posts
- 664
Good ? to ask waiting for a reply along with you. I did see something a while back where the clamp was screwed down in to housing but was only a pic.
10-19-2009 #3
Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2005
- Location
- Northern Colorado
- Posts
- 51
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainl...ign=GoogleBase
I've used ones like these several times across 9" housings. Just drill and tap the tube for the #10x32 screws provided. Usually I'd try to bend the flat portion of the tab so that the clamp would follow the radius of the tube. I would avoid putting any on the center housing, especially if the rear is assembled to avoid getting any drill and tap shrapnel in there. You should be fine on the tubes though.
Adam MoyerAdam Moyer
'69 Cutlass "S"
10-19-2009 #4
Registered User
- Join Date
- Sep 2006
- Location
- Southern Indiana
- Posts
- 4,709
Still need to have axles out to clean stuff up if you drill and tap, I have actually used CV boot clamps and small piece or rubber hose, their stainless and wont rust and can be replaced easily.
10-20-2009 #5
Registered User
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Posts
- 386
GM used a plastic wrap around type clamp just for this on all trucks beginning in the late 90's. I use them and have taken some off of wrecked cars that have rearends replaced that come in the shop. They are perfect considering that is what they were designed to do. Check it out and I am sure you will use them.
1968 Camaro Crossram EFI 385, TKO 600 fully REMed. 594 hp/576 tq-ft. ATX spindles, Speedtech control arms, Chassis Works G-Link on 12 bolt with REMed gears, Chassis Works mini tubs, 245/40-17 front, 335/35-17 rear.
10-20-2009 #6
Registered User
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Rustburg, Virginia
- Posts
- 3,436
I've heard of some folks using an epoxy type material to glue clamps onto the axle tubes for the 9" rears from Currie.
.....maybe Protour73(Scott) will chime in, I think he used them.
edit: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showpo...&postcount=138Last edited by John Wright; 10-20-2009 at 04:46 AM. Reason: added link
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
10-21-2009 #7
Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
- Location
- British Columbia, Canada
- Posts
- 723
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. The funny thing is after I posted this question, I started thinking.....the rear end has a back brace welded on. I could just as easily drill and tap some holes right into the back brace and run it along there. I also like the idea of just running it along the rails and then the floor. I already have the rear together so I don't feel like taking it apart, but I guess if I do decide to run it along the tubes, I will have to take it apart. Thanks again for all the responses.
Reply With Quote
