Official: Brake Pad Knock Back Thread

[Vegas69]

As some of you know I and a few others have fought brake pad knock back issues. With a fixed caliper like many of the large manufacturers use, any slack in the bearings under load cause the pads to recede the pistons into the caliper. This isn't so great the next time you hit the brake pedal since you experience more pedal travel than the previous stroke.
The first time I autocrossed my car I had to pump the brakes between the corners. I determined I had .020.021 play end play in each axle. I bought some different retainer plates and got it down to .005/.006. While that has improved it tremendously, I'm still not satisfied on the street or track. I know it's not the front because I have C6 bearing packs and they only net .001 play. At this point I called Wilwood and they don't offer a floating caliper so I would need to switch brakes if I go that route. My number two thought is to go to a tapered bearing. I called moser and they said most circle track and autocrossers run a tapered bearing but he couldn't guarantee that would fix my problem. He also said .005 was tight enough for a roller bearing.
I can't really get anybody to cough up a spec on how tight the axle end play should be. Wilwood is actually sending me some shims but how much tighter can I go and will .002-.003 really help that much. Has anyone changed from a roller to a tapered bearing and has it helped? I'm experiencing a change in brake pedal even on the street under normal drving conditions. While it's managable on the street and track. I want a consistant brake pedal. I had a brief conversation with Frank at Prodigy yesterday and it's happening with other brake manufacturers as well. He said he knows a guy that is running a 10psi residual valve in the front and back. While I'm sure that would fix my issue, I feel it will cause excess heat and pad wear on a cruise that could potentially cause brake failure.

[silver69camaro]

I'm surprised you aren't running a tapered bearing right now...but I have no idea if that would completely solve your problem though.

Don't rule out your front bearing packs. They can flex, even if they show very little runout. ZR1 bearings may be the answer if you end up not solving the problem.

[Vegas69]

If I knew what I know now....LOL I would have set the car up with a tapered bearing. I'm getting some knock back on the street as well. I just can't imagine a C6 bearing pack being a problem on the street. I'm talking about just cruising around town taking corners normally. Autocross and Road course I can see needing to go to a ZR1 hub possibly.

[rsk68]

Actually Wilwood does make a floating caliper, its there GM copy, there are two sizes a 7.06 mount center and a 5.46 mount center, with diferent models for various disk thicknes's, I had purchased just the mounts from Hiedts to mount them to the back of the Wilwood disc drum backing plate, I just havnt purchased the calipers yet. I had researched this due to the same knock back issues.

I have reduced any bearing and axle play to under .005 and knock back remains.

[Vegas69]

Thanks Rick.....are you running a tapered bearing or roller?

[Larry Callahan]

Recently Wilwood used MotiV8r to look into this problem since they are like 2 miles from my day job. They had it for a couple of days and shimmed my problems out for the most part. There is still something up but bleeding them might fix it. I can't remember what they got the play down to but I will ask.

[Vegas69]

Larry, have you had it on the track since? Are you running a roller or tapered bearing?

[rsk68]

I was talking to Ron Deraad at a local event, he has managed to make his front Wilwwod disks floaters and made his rear Wilwood calipers float, it didnt help his problem much, what finally fixed it for him was going to a elctrical brake booster with a larger bore, it may be the volume is just to much topush back much.

Ron chime in if I have this wrong.

[Larry Callahan]

Larry, have you had it on the track since? Are you running a roller or tapered bearing?

Roller and not on the track yet. I hope to go beat on it this weekend though.

[Vegas69]

Whatever brake knock back you have on the street will be 2-3 times worse on the track.

[RSX302]

Sorry guy's, It's been completely nuts this last month.

rsk68, you have it right. Nothing I did with knockback at the calipers helped. I built in .050" worth of rear caliper float. Nothing! I managed to confirm that it was the rear causing the problem by plugging off the rears, but everything I did would not get rid of it. I made it better by putting new bearings (tapered) and bigger Currie plates, but didn't fully cure it.

UNTIL!

Bigger bore master! The smaller the master bore, the more you notice it. I'm sure it's still there, but with my new 1 3/16" bore power assist system, you can't even tell. At the race track, it worked perfect. Brake bias felt very good all the time. I was so happy I could have cried. (Big Pvssy I am..LOL)My car has never felt so good. It took me half the day at the track to build my confidence to were it should have been in the beginning. Heal and toe was spot on into every corner. It was fun before, but now it's a blast to drive.

I drove a couple of C6 vette guy's around the track and they were blown away how well it's hooked up and stops.

I wish it was this way at the optima event last year. I know I would have placed much better then 8th. Maybe first! LOL ...Oh well..Lifes a "B"

[RSX302]

Whatever brake knock back you have on the street will be 2-3 times worse on the track.

That's for sure...I hated that double pump crap before every corner.

[zbugger]

I know this doesn't help the thread any, but....

...I hope to go beat on it this weekend though.

lol..... That's just damn good sig material right there.

Sorry. Back to the thread now.

[RSX302]

I know this doesn't help the thread any, but....



lol..... That's just damn good sig material right there.

Sorry. Back to the thread now.

I heard something about Buttonwillow this weekend? Is this were Larry is going to BEAT ON IT!

I wish I could make it, but it ain't gonna happen. Maybe next one...



I like your sig! I know a night of frijoles--I'm a contributor.

[Vegas69]

The rumor is that a 10lb residual valve will fix it. I'm ready to try it!

[RSX302]

The rumor is that a 10lb residual valve will fix it. I'm ready to try it!

I tried the 2lb residual valve for the disc brake application, didn't phase it. I didn't do the 10lb because I was afraid that it would drag the rears being that it's used for drum. not sure?

[parsonsj]

I had knockback issues on mine. I finally found it was a bad front bearing pack (II Much uses C4 front bearings). My rear is 9 inch based, so the axles don't move.

jp

[Rick Dorion]

Ron, could you elaborate a bit on the booster? Thanks.

[John Wright]

I tried the 2lb residual valve for the disc brake application, didn't phase it. I didn't do the 10lb because I was afraid that it would drag the rears being that it's used for drum. not sure?

I'd run that 10# deal by Tobin before doing that....I have a feeling that it might keep your calipers clamped up enough to get some heat built up in the pads/rotors from the extra drag.

Are the sliders greased up good? Are there any excessive clearances in the bearings (like JP mentioned)or something else loose up there?

edit: nevermind, I read the OP a wee bit closer this time and you mention having the problem at the rear...I was thinking fronts....

[Payton King]

twin masters, that I think are magnifying my problem like Ron stated. Going to a power set up. I will let you know what I think.

I know knockback exists in power systems as well, since I have been hanging out on the corvette forum, but it seems most of the time it is worn bearing related. Mine are new with less than 4000 miles on them, so I am ruling those out.