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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      99

      Proportioning valve help

      Hey guys,



      I'm having issues with a leaking proportioning valve. I'm on my third one. Everyone is leaking on the out side to the rear brake lines. It is leaking at the adapter that goes into the valve line fitting is fine. Initially it was fine but after a 30 min drive it began to leak when the brake was applied. It is a slow drip but a problem none the less. I know it's not the preferred method but I even tried teflon tape. Should I tighten when the car is warmed up? That's when it seems to leak. Just looking for and tips or suggestions. I have attempted to tighten but doesn't seem to help. Oh yeah, it is a Baer proportioning valve. I'm using 1/4 aluminum factory type lines, c5 master and booster and c5 4 wheel disc brakes.

      As always thanks in advance
      Marcus K.


      LS7 w/Twin Precision 6266s, Viper T56, 4 link suspension, ATS spindles, Kore3 conversion.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Humm, same valve fitting? For all three valves??? If so I would suspect that. Or do you get a new one with every valve. What kind of adapter is it? Flare to NPT? If its NPT then it should be self sealing, its a tapered thread. But... Sometimes a lil pipe dope works to help seal the threads and more importantly gives a lil lubrication to the threads so friction isnt causing you to bind up before the threads actually get to form a mechanical seal. I wouldnt use tape. If its a NPT that is leaking I would use a very small amount of good dope and use a flare wrench to put some solid torque to the fitting. Just a thought. JR

      Quote Originally Posted by akrapovic View Post
      Hey guys,

      I'm having issues with a leaking proportioning valve. I'm on my third one. Everyone is leaking on the out side to the rear brake lines. It is leaking at the adapter that goes into the valve line fitting is fine. Initially it was fine but after a 30 min drive it began to leak when the brake was applied. It is a slow drip but a problem none the less. I know it's not the preferred method but I even tried teflon tape. Should I tighten when the car is warmed up? That's when it seems to leak. Just looking for and tips or suggestions. I have attempted to tighten but doesn't seem to help. Oh yeah, it is a Baer proportioning valve. I'm using 1/4 aluminum factory type lines, c5 master and booster and c5 4 wheel disc brakes.

      As always thanks in advance

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      99
      I've been using a new brass fitting every time. In fact I tightened the first one to the point where it bottomed out and started leaking like a stuck pig. I have not tried pipe dope but I did use liquid teflon for the first one. I don't think that had enough time to set and was actually eaten away by the brake fluid. I'll try pipe dope next. I'm open to any suggestions so thank you.


      here is the description from baer-

      Acurately adjust front to rear brake bias with this adjustable proportioning valve from Baer Brakes.

      The prop valve body uses 1/8 pipe thread (NPT) and the adaptors we supply with this are 3/8"-24 tube nut for 3/16" tubing and 7/16"-24 tube nut for 1/4" tubing.
      Keep em coming.
      Marcus K.


      LS7 w/Twin Precision 6266s, Viper T56, 4 link suspension, ATS spindles, Kore3 conversion.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      Is it leaking at the pipe thread or at the flare? If at the pipe thread, try some Loctite 545 thread sealer.. If at the flare, check that the flare on the tubing isn't buggered up. There are copper flare sealing washers available, kind of a conical copper deal.

      Aluminum brake line tubing? I'm skeptical - never heard of anyone using it. Is it rated for the pressure on a braking system?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Houston
      Posts
      149
      so you are reflairing the line each time you installed a new prop valve?

      on the inside of the prop valve does it have an inverted flair seat? ive never had or seen an adjustable prop valve in person. if so are you using the right flairing tool? quality of the flair?
      clint

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Michigan
      Posts
      99
      The lines actually look "aluminized." I'm sure they are steel just not stainless. So far it is bone dry. If it does not hold up I will definitely try a different sealant.
      Marcus K.


      LS7 w/Twin Precision 6266s, Viper T56, 4 link suspension, ATS spindles, Kore3 conversion.




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