calculating brake force???

[gsxrken]

I
I would appreciate some input. I went from set up #1 with power brakes, to set up #2 with manual brakes, and now couldn't lock the brakes with both legs, and now considering set ups #3 and #4.
thanks

Ron said it earlier, but pad choice could clear up all of your complaints. Pad friction improvements of 25% will transform the stopping ability much more than a few more PSI at the pistons.

I was mortified with my 6/4 Wilwoods performance. Wouldn't lock them up until about the 3rd hard stop. I tried 3 MCs smaller and smaller and still hated it. I bought a manual pedal and side-by side MCs (3/4" & 1") but never got around to installing them b/c of a back injury. Then I swapped the pads to their BP20 and was instantly happy with them. I actually have to watch how hard I use the brakes now, especially noticeable at the end of the dragstrip when braking for the first turn off. I still intend to go manual with the dual MCs, but that is now just for feel and control, not an attempt to get better braking.

[Payton King]

Having the same problems. Have the 6 piston wilwoods on front with the 13 inch 2 piece rotor, 13 inch rear with the 4.

Pedal ratio is 5.3 or so with a custom twin master set-up and balance bar. Running a 5/8 on front and 3/4 in the rear. Generating 1000 psi on front and 800 psi rear.

It takes lots of effort to stop. After 4 or 5 hard stops to get heat in the pads it does much better. I am going to pull a pad this weekend to see what compound I am running, but from what I read above the bp20 is the ticket?

[RSX302]

Ron said it earlier, but pad choice could clear up all of your complaints. Pad friction improvements of 25% will transform the stopping ability much more than a few more PSI at the pistons.

I was mortified with my 6/4 Wilwoods performance. Wouldn't lock them up until about the 3rd hard stop. I tried 3 MCs smaller and smaller and still hated it. I bought a manual pedal and side-by side MCs (3/4" & 1") but never got around to installing them b/c of a back injury. Then I swapped the pads to their BP20 and was instantly happy with them. I actually have to watch how hard I use the brakes now, especially noticeable at the end of the dragstrip when braking for the first turn off. I still intend to go manual with the dual MCs, but that is now just for feel and control, not an attempt to get better braking.

Intresting...are your brakes dragging or did you already have heat into them at the drags? I can't get my BP-20's to do that until I get some good heat into them. I was scared to death on the street during the first 5 or so stops. The low cf of the BP-20's don't get to the BP-10's until about 350-400 degrees. Amazing how the bite with only .4-.5cf makes a big difference in cold stopping power.

[ks71z28]

I appreciate all the input. Mary Pozzi's car and mine are very similar. I will likely stay with the C5 style brakes with a manual set up and 7/8" master. The car stops well at speed, but at low speed it doesn't stop well, a lot of effort, which may be due to the EBC "yellow stuff" pads. I have a lot of flex at the firewall, so I am going to try and remedy that with a brace. Trying to get good brake feel had been a difficult task. I just think that Wilwood needs to be careful in their marketing of "Big" brake kits. $3500-4000 is a lot of money for a brake system that may not be any better than a stock brake system with good rotors and pads. My C5 system is n't any better than the previous system, with 12" rotors and big single piston calipers. Again thanks for the input

[RSX302]

I appreciate all the input. Mary Pozzi's car and mine are very similar. I will likely stay with the C5 style brakes with a manual set up and 7/8" master. The car stops well at speed, but at low speed it doesn't stop well, a lot of effort, which may be due to the EBC "yellow stuff" pads. I have a lot of flex at the firewall, so I am going to try and remedy that with a brace. Trying to get good brake feel had been a difficult task. I just think that Wilwood needs to be careful in their marketing of "Big" brake kits. $3500-4000 is a lot of money for a brake system that may not be any better than a stock brake system with good rotors and pads. My C5 system is n't any better than the previous system, with 12" rotors and big single piston calipers. Again thanks for the input

I appologize for getting off track...
I looked up the yellow stuff pads and found that they are .5cf. If thats correct, then that pad will bite pretty good. I think if you go more then that you will get into the racing pads that are noisy and dusty. I think .4's are standard for the street and .5's are getting into an entry race pad.

I had the same issue with pushing too hard on the brakes and the only way I found to fix was doing one of the following: Smaller master, Bigger piston calipers or add power assist. The most inexpensive fix for me was the master.

I have no complaints with Wilwoods products, just was lacking the correct set-up information. But that makes them more money now doesn't it.
I hate the phase: "WE DO IT NICE CUZ WE DO IT TWICE"

Good Luck!

Ron