combo help!

[wills55]

I just bought a '65 Malibu and i could really use some help from the gurus here about picking some parts for my new motor. so heres what ive got so far:

Ive got a '70 2boolt 400sbc, bored .030 over
6.0 Scat forged i-beams
Ross 95765 pistons 12.1:1 w/ 58cc, 11.3:1 w/64cc , 10:1 w/76cc
-4cc dome
Scat cast crank
total cid is 406
weiand x-cellerator intake
lunati solid lifter bracket master II cam. specs are 256/270 @.050 and 500/515 @.050
full length headers
1.5 roller rockers
i know i still need to get the main studs
it will have a 750 holley double pumper
edelbrock fuel pump
high flow aluminum water pump

now i just need to get some heads that will allow me to spin this puppy to 6300-6500rpm. keep in mind that im on a little bit of a budget. any help would be very appreciated.

[rocketman]

Whats your plans for the car? Do you want a maintance free combo? Do you want a pump gas motor?

My off the top of my head suggestions, go around 10.1 - 10.5 comp. You don't need studs just good bolts.Lose the solid cam, but a Hyd roller in it, intake is ok not the best I would go with a Performer rpm. I prefer Brodix Heads, a IK200 or Track 1 head will be good.

[wills55]

the plan for the car is to have a fairly nasty street car that gets driven maybe 2-3 times a week. and a trip to the strip once a month or so. as far as a hassle or maintenece free combo, adjusting valve lash and what not really doesnt bother me at all. even if i have to mess with it every 2 weeks thats ok. pump gas? yes thats a must. the hyd roller conversion puts me out of my budget and ive already bought the intake and cam/lifters so i kinda have to stay with that stuff.

[Lowend]

I just saw a combo similar to this make huge power using Edelbrock E-tec heads.
From my buddy Marv

here is no real high tech combination to this. A Hughes street TH350, a Jeggs 2800 convertor, 4.10 gears, a Lunati streetmaster hydraulic cam (#00012) 10.2:1 ,, and Dana's launching from 1500rpm and footbraking, shifting at 6000 and going through the traps at 6300ish (11.58@115) in a 3300-3400 pound car. I tell ya, them little 9" Hoosiers are sure doing as good of a job as those little 170 E-tech's

[Lowend]

The cam specs Marv used:
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246 int./246 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 300
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 300
Advertised Duration: 300 int./300 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.515 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.515 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.515 int./0.515 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 108

[ProdigyCustoms]

I would put some 215CC heads on it, and ditch that cam for a another (a solid roller would be awesome) with more lift (580 to 600 range would be nice) and a tick more duration on the intake side less on the exhaust side. Something in the 255 / 260 range on 110 would be good. If you want it really nasty, tighten it up to 108 or 106LC, but it will get a bit more peaky!

Your going to need more carb, maybe a 830 Annular

[wills55]

the heads in the 200-215 range is what im looking at right now. as for the solid roller...it sounds like a geat idea, but that moves my powerband into a much less usable area for me as i want to be able to drive this thing with some degree of comfort on the street. me and a few of the guys like to do a little cruise to South Beach and the traffic does tend to get a little thick when we go. the motor has to be trouble free in stand still traffic on a 90degree day and on a hundred mile drive (about the miles it is from my house to Moroso MotorSports Park). thanks about as far as i plan to drive it on one trip. does that sound like a doable thing?

[rocketman]

a roller cam is no different than any other cam, get it ground where it works for, it just allows alot more aggresiveness in the profile and wont wear out like a flat tappet cam

[wills55]

^true. but, how i understood it, if i were going to drive this thing in traffic and and cruising around town the solid roller would be too much? wrong information? my specialty is interiors, so when it comes to engine building and setting up parts to work together, i could use all the help i can get. I had someone tell me that my intake was wimpy. does anyone else think that is is not enough to keep up with my motor? probably going to go with the Sportsman II heads from World Products 200cc/72cc chambers.

[70camaro406]

Yeah, that's wrong information. There are many solid roller cams that are smaller than the solid flat tappet that you already have. The old saying goes, (at least what I say), "Once you go roller, you won't go back." It really does make a difference, and I've had them all (well, except for hyd roller).

In any case, if you keep your cam and just go heads, I'd suggest a set of AFR 195 or 210 Eliminator heads. Either set will make a huge difference and definitely put you in the 11's. I run the "pre-elim" AFR 210's that are 100% CNC'd and a Lunati solid roller on the street with 10.5:1 and pump gas. I feel like I could drive it everyday, it's pretty composed on the street. But it also is capable of 11.0 ET's too, on the motor.

[another69]

Just my two cents-

Seems like you've got a good shortblock there, just keep compression under 10.5:1. Your duration seems a bit large for a street friendly motor- I have a 406 simular to yours with less duration and IT'S probably a bit much.

You're in a good spot now, because you haven't bought your heads yet, but your cam may need to change. Do yourself a favor and REALLY REALLY research your cam- there's a ton out there to choose from, and I'd hate to see you lose power by picking the wrong one.

Shoot for a realistic RPM range and build accordingly. Remember- with more duration your torque does not neccasarily grow- it just moves up in the rev range. Good luck!

[ProdigyCustoms]

Wil, my street racer has many miles on it and 90% of those miles on the street are in stop and go cruise in cruising. Now I am not suggesting you go anything close to as big as my cam, but my car is totally streetable. I cruise it 50 miles back and froth to Daytona, do the RTHs cruise, Parades, Stop and go, and race the sheot out of it. And as far as size, my 10.6 : 1 motor runs 230CC heads and a 271 / 279 (@.050), 682 / 682 lift, My first cam was 268 / 272, 630 / 630. I picked up 2 tenths on the change and extended the RPM 400 which helps when I push the magic button and the need the RPMs for the additional speed.

[wills55]

the head that i have been looking at have all had 72-76cc chambers so that i can keep my compression in the 10.0-10.5:1 range. if i went with the
64cc's do you guys think that the compression will be too high and i will have trouble trying to run pump gas? also, i was told that i am going to have to run a stall converter with a 4000-4500 stall speed. is this accurate? and how streetable is a stall that high? and if my car cruises at 3300rpm at highway speeds, is a stall that high going to be creating an enourmous amount of heat that could be potentially damaging to the car? if so the next thing i do after i get this engine situation figured out is a t56 swap or a tko swap.

[wills55]

btw Frank your car sounds like a real screamer!! what kind of car is it?

[greygoose006]

a 4500 stall is ridiculous and will be COMPLETELY un streetable.

go lower.
where is your peak torque intended to be?
put your stall below that.

if your peak torque is at 3000 rpms, a stall of 4500 is a waste. you would want something like 2500 - 2700 for drag racing applications.

[rocketman]

a 3000 stall will be plenty. and 4k stall most likely wouldnt stall at that

Frank nice motor, very close to a piece I have.

[wills55]

ive asked on another forum and they seem to think that my cam is a very bad idea. i cant see how it is such a bad idea whn Frank runs that big solid roller in his car and he doesnt seem to have trouble driving it on the street. im going to stick with this cam until i either decide that its going to be just fine for me or i learn the hard way, and end up having to change it. if i do end up changing it out for something else, it WILL be a solid roller.

so anyway, ive found an ad on ebay for some Dart Iron Eagle's in either 180-200-215-and 230cc runner choices. and 49-64 or 72cc chambers. they come with the larger springs and i would really appreciate it if someone could take a look at the ad and tell me if it is something i should do or if it is something i should steer clear of. heres the link to the ad:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DART-...mZ220221603790

thanks for all the help guys! and heres a pic of it in the tiny garage before i started putting on some of the new stuff. it kinda looks like a small block Christmas tree. hah

[/IMG]

and one of the car its going into

[/IMG]

[wills55]

could someone check the heads in the e-bay ad out and give an opinion about the parts used to assemble them. i dont think they are the factory Dart pieces, but if they are good enough ill use them. thanks

[ProdigyCustoms]

The reason you cam is bad is because to the intake to exhaust duration difference. Sounds like a turbo cam. is it on 114LC? My car is a 69 Camaro street / drag car.

[wills55]

the cam is on a 112lsa