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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States

      Issues With SPC Lower Control Arms

      Okay, I'm not here to bad mouth. I'm here to ask if anyone else has had this happen to them before - and how to remedy the problem.

      I had my new Howe lower ball joints (LBJ) installed in my new SPC lower control arms (LCA). When the guy pressed them in for me, he mentioned that he was nervous about them slipping back out of the LCA due to the lack of friction surface between the LCA and the LBJ. I didn't think much of it since I've had several sets of stock-type LBJ's installed and never any problem.

      So, I finally get all my parts here and get some time to get out there and start installing my new front suspension. SPC upper control arms, ATS spindles, hotchkis springs, SPC lower control arms, etc... I get everything installed nice and purty. I'm painting up my calipers getting them ready for install. I read the instructions about trying to get your alignment at least clse to what it was stock. So I take some measurements and start to adjust my new uppers.

      I'm on bolt 4 of 6 and I'm DONE. Then THIS happens...









      Yes, that's the LBJ that has slipped out of the LCA.

      Has this ever happened to you?


      What did you do to fix it???

      My personal opinion is that there just wasn't enough friction surface. Or maybe the hole was cut a few thousandths too big. Or??? I just don't know.


      ANYONE??

      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      North Jersey
      Posts
      983
      I had the same issue with my stock LCAs and the Howe LBJs. I put in a quick call to Marcus over at SC&C and he told me to tack weld the balljoints into my lower A-arms so they wouldn't come out.
      Steve Ragusa - North Jersey
      2006 Infiniti G35x
      Former Build - 1988 Monte Carlo SS - ZZ4-cammed TPI 355, F-body serpentine conversion, World-Class 5-speed, Eibachs/Bilsteins, Howe tall LBJs, 34mm hollow front swaybar, 3/4" straight rear bar, 17" Coys C55s, 12" front discs, and more. Sold on 2/28/11.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,314
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah, the arm wears out. Tack them or get new LCAs
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Southern NJ
      Posts
      542
      Country Flag: United States
      That is quite a coincidence...I had my Howe balljoints swapped into my SPC lowers this morning and installed the arms this afternoon. I noticed the balljoint having been pushed out at the last second - as I was installing the shock. I was so mad that I almost put my fist through the wall, as this is my 4th control arm setup. I was on my way back here to post the same pictures!

      I haven't checked with Marcus yet, but I have already decided to tack mine in place. I was able to get it to reseat by removing the swaybar and tierod and placing a block of wood on the LCA. A few blows with a 3lb sledge and it reseated. I did need to jack up the LCA at the same time, though - I used my biggest socket to protect the BJ.

      I just wish I knew why it pushed out, I was thinking that the spring would pull it into place, not force it out.

      Bozohansen: these LCAs can't be worn out. The first sets were produced this month.
      Matt
      1965 Pontiac GTO – Spotts 421 Tripower | TKO600 | 3.90s | Vintage AC | Baers | Hotchkis/SPC/BMR Suspension | Intro Vistas | BFG KDW Redlines | 06 GTO Seats

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool, that makes me feel a LITTLE better...

      I don't mind tacking them in place if it doesn't hurt anything. Not a big deal. Just don't want to burn up good parts before I get to drive on them!!!
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by PT Goat
      I was so mad that I almost put my fist through the wall...
      Awesome! I was freakin' pissed too!!




      Quote Originally Posted by PT Goat
      Bozohansen: these LCAs can't be worn out. The first sets were produced this month.
      ^^^^^Yeah, what he said!!^^^^^
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Someone didnt do their Gazintaz and made the holes to loose.. I wouldnt tack weld them for the simple fact that they are not right. why bandaid a new product. Although the heat of the tachs would not hurt a thing. Or the BJs are undersized for some reason....
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Southern NJ
      Posts
      542
      Country Flag: United States
      Good point on the size of the balljoints - I'd be interested to hear from someone who has mounted the SPCs and left the stock balljoints in there. I suppose it could just be an issue with the Howes.
      Matt
      1965 Pontiac GTO – Spotts 421 Tripower | TKO600 | 3.90s | Vintage AC | Baers | Hotchkis/SPC/BMR Suspension | Intro Vistas | BFG KDW Redlines | 06 GTO Seats

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,314
      Country Flag: United States
      Oh snap, I've seen so many old LCAs do that I overlooked the SPC arm part.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX
      Someone didnt do their Gazintaz and made the holes to loose.. I wouldnt tack weld them for the simple fact that they are not right. why bandaid a new product. Although the heat of the tachs would not hurt a thing. Or the BJs are undersized for some reason....
      gazintaz?? WTF?

      Anyway, like I said before I'm not opposed to tacking them on there IF that's Mark's recommendation.

      By just reading this thread alone it seems that this is NOT an isolated incident; it is a pattern. So if I get a new set of arms and BJ's could I potentially have the same issue? I think so.

      So putting a "band-aid" on there might seem like a crappy solution, but I'd rather band-aid it today and be driving by next week rather than waiting a month or so for new parts and have to band-aid them later. Again, it seems that this is not an isolated incident.
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Indiana
      Posts
      2,670
      Country Flag: United States
      That's a frustrating issue to say the least! I'd be pretty mad too.

      I had a pair of Howe LBJ's for my SPC LCA's but at the last minute decided to leave the stock LBJ's in place. I haven't noticed them pulling out, but I haven't driven it yet. It doesn't look like you guys have driven yours yet either.

      I'm going to have to keep a close eye on them to make sure they stay put.
      Herb

      1966 El Camino LS408/T56Magnum
      1966 Chevelle 509/T56Magnum
      1963 C10 454/4L80

      PHR CHP CHP youtube


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      From the marks on the MOOG ball joints the guy "pressed" out, it seems those were up in there pretty tight... But I'm not sure because I wasn't there to see him in action.

      I'd be willing to bet that the MOOG's were in there tighter. So hopefully you won't have these issues.
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      83
      Just my 2 cents, most MOOG ball joints made for car 10 years old and more are made a little over sized to fit tight in worn control arms. Which will in turn cause the ball joint hole in a new control arm to be inlarged when installed.
      Just something to be aware of, also race guy's weld in the ball joints.
      Kevin

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Quote Originally Posted by HectorM52
      gazintaz?? WTF????
      Come on 3 gazinta 6 2 times 4 gazinta 12 3 times.



      Math my man



      And I beleive this is the correct answer for it all..

      Originally Posted by kp.touring
      Just my 2 cents, most MOOG ball joints made for car 10 years old and more are made a little over sized to fit tight in worn control arms. Which will in turn cause the ball joint hole in a new control arm to be inlarged when installed.

      Kevin
      MAybe they should be offered with and with out BJs or come uninstalled. Everyone has a BJ press right? Even the LowBucker has a $25 Harbor freight BJ press.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Newark DE
      Posts
      238
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by kp.touring
      Just my 2 cents, most MOOG ball joints made for car 10 years old and more are made a little over sized to fit tight in worn control arms. Which will in turn cause the ball joint hole in a new control arm to be inlarged when installed.
      Just something to be aware of, also race guy's weld in the ball joints.
      Kevin
      Moog offers "Problem solver" ball joints that are oversized. They have become the norm in the shops so maybe by some off chance the arms were speced for the problem solvers. That would make the stock spec Howes undersized.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Tampa, FL
      Posts
      170
      Moog's bjs are oversized??? that explains why I have had an issue pressing them in on newer vehicles. (Worked for firestone all moog suspension parts there)

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      North Jersey
      Posts
      983
      Quote Originally Posted by 87wildside
      Moog offers "Problem solver" ball joints that are oversized. They have become the norm in the shops so maybe by some off chance the arms were speced for the problem solvers. That would make the stock spec Howes undersized.
      Yep, and that's why I had the trouble with mine. I took out a set of Problem Solvers, and they're actually "splined" so that they dig into the hole. The Howe BJs are not splined, so once the hole in the control arm is worn from those grooves, they will slide in a bit easier, and also possibly come out. I haven't driven my car except to go in and out of the garage since we put them in, but I think since they're tacked in place it should be fine.
      Steve Ragusa - North Jersey
      2006 Infiniti G35x
      Former Build - 1988 Monte Carlo SS - ZZ4-cammed TPI 355, F-body serpentine conversion, World-Class 5-speed, Eibachs/Bilsteins, Howe tall LBJs, 34mm hollow front swaybar, 3/4" straight rear bar, 17" Coys C55s, 12" front discs, and more. Sold on 2/28/11.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Southern NJ
      Posts
      542
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TPI Monte SS
      Yep, and that's why I had the trouble with mine. I took out a set of Problem Solvers, and they're actually "splined" so that they dig into the hole. The Howe BJs are not splined, so once the hole in the control arm is worn from those grooves, they will slide in a bit easier, and also possibly come out....
      Great point - the stock SPC BJs are splined (Moog I assume), and I swapped them for the Howes which are not splined. Sounds like the problem has been poinpointed.
      Matt
      1965 Pontiac GTO – Spotts 421 Tripower | TKO600 | 3.90s | Vintage AC | Baers | Hotchkis/SPC/BMR Suspension | Intro Vistas | BFG KDW Redlines | 06 GTO Seats

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by PT Goat
      Sounds like the problem has been poinpointed.
      I agree.

      ...FYI - these SPC LCA's did come with MOOG's pressed in as the "stock" setup...


      So the solution is to tack weld them in? Does everyone concur??
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      ...because it's just ready and waiting for me!!

      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

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