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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      312

      big problem varishocks

      today i will do my first testdriving with the new suspension in my camino.
      lower a arms from spohn and varishock coil overs 575lbs.
      the first problem when i will move out of my garage: steering ! i can not steering easy
      back on the car lift and i can see the tie-rods both side scrups on the chassis.
      the next what i see and feel: no damping and absorbing, and i see the problem.
      the lower a arm bumps on the chassis.
      this pic is shot with the jack under the front end




      what is the problem ? is the spring rate too low ? or is the spring not long enough ?
      when i install the new parts, the camino comes 2" lower than before
      greets
      Klaus


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      PA.
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      The car is obviously way too low. Where do you have the lower spring seats set? There`s lots of room between the coils yet in that pic so you should have plenty of adj. left in with the lower seat. That`s what it`s there for.
      This is all part of putting a really adjustable suspension in a car. You need to adjust it. The motion ratio of the coil over is such that 1/2" of coil over travel equals about 1" of wheel travel. On a lowered car we don`t have much jounce travel left so the coil over shows even less. That looks funny to people at first but as long as the coils aren`t actually touching at any point (coil bind) you`re fine. Using a longer spring would mean that it`s compressed height is also higher and it would coil bind before the shock has used it`s full travel. It`s permissible to use a 1" coil spring preload spacer and it`s sometimes a handy tuning aid but it shouldn`t be necessary with 575lb/in springs on a small block G body. We can`t help without enough information though. We need more info as far as where the lower seat is (can`t see it in the pic). Posting threads like this before the client has even spoken to the vendor is almost always counter productive because you end up with a lot of wild speculation from (well meaning) people who have never worked with the system before. It just muddys the water and makes it harder to get things done. It`s best done after the tuning is done,then it can be a help to others. Mark SC&C

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      312
      yeep, here is the problem
      first pic, under the car, springs fully compressed.
      messurement from centerbolt to a-arm


      second pic
      old a-arm, messurement from a-arm to centerbolt


      difference 0.7"
      greets
      Klaus

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,129
      Country Flag: United States
      What brand of control arms are those?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
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      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Doh!!!!! Bmr?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Columbia, IL
      Posts
      32
      I had the same clearance issues with the Spohns. A little trimming on the mounts free'd up a lot of room.
















      I can now bring the tire up to the innerfender if I wanted to.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      312
      spohn arms.
      greets
      Klaus

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      PA.
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      Klaus and I have been working this over and the primary issue is that the car is simply set much too low. He raised the ride height some and the arms had a lot more clearance. At this point the pivot axis of the lower ball joints was still above the inner pivot axis where the arms bolt to the frame. That`s too low. You want the inner pivot far enough above that you allow for some brake dive before the geometry goes south. See pic. The orange line is level. The red line shows where a line between the pivot axis is now (at the "raised ride height") and the blue shows where it really should be for best geometry and performance.



      At that height the car is still about 1.5" or so lower than stock and everything has plenty of clearance and travel. If you want the car lower for cosmetic reasons simply use tall lower ball joints (in this application) or spindles with some additional drop like AFXs and you can have lots of travel,great geometry and the stance you want. Coil overs aren`t the end all be all of lowering a car and making it handle,they`re just another useful tool in the box. Like any tool they have to be used properly for best performance. A new option BTW are the SPC Performance tubular lower arms which offer 1" of additional drop and more clearance as well as enhanced geometry. We`ll have them up on the site as soon as our web guy gets off his butt. Mark SC&C


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      312
      hi markus,
      i will send you new pics.
      for order the tall ball- joints, you today at the office ?
      greets
      Klaus

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Posts
      65
      Marcus are those the Spohn or SPC pictured ? will they be available for the A body as well ?

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      PA.
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      The ones on Klaus`s ElCamino are Spohn. The ones in the other pic are SPC Performance and yes,they`re available for A body. In fact we`ve already sold about a tractor trailer load of them! We`re currently updating the site so they`ll be on there soon. We also have them for 1st Gen Camaro, 2nd Gen Camaro,`78-`88 G body ,`73-`77 A Body, `78-`96 B body !!! We`ve been busy! Mark SC&C




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