Project 68 The Great One

[Code Red]

pulled the driver side fender well off

[SPECWARSQUID]

Good work, keep it up

Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

[Code Red]

wow I'm hearing crickets

[Code Red]

well finished pulling the rest of the front end off

You can see some of the frame damage a bit better and next week the car will go to the shop to get it fixed and aligned right.

Also drivetrain will come out this weekend so I can take the motor to a shop to get rebuilt

[Code Red]

man almost making me not want to make anymore posts

[Code Red]

No more engine, trans, or driveshaft

[Young Gun]

looks like you have made some pretty solid progress...seems to be more rust than expected though which sucks...but awsome progress none the less!

[Code Red]

[Code Red]

looks like you have made some pretty solid progress...seems to be more rust than expected though which sucks...but awsome progress none the less!

yeah its gettign there dropping the engine off at a shop in the morning for its rebuild

[Roadbuster]

Looks like you are making great strides! Those are some creative old repairs. Thanks for posting all the pics - they can come in handy when I am digging into my own 68 and I know something is just not the way is should be!

Jon

[andrewb70]

Nice progress. Looks like the car was originally green. I like that color on a GTO. Red is nice too

Andrew

[Code Red]

so has anyone noticed that in the one pic I posted it looks liek someone tried to grind something off the block ;)



you can still see the Y N but according to my brother looks like all they did was grind off the part number instead of the VIN

[andrewb70]

On a Pontiac engine, that is where the engine code and the last 6 digits of the VIN go. The block PN is in the rear.

Andrew

[SPECWARSQUID]

Sorry Andrew, I guess you'll just have to stick to your Big Block Chevys and LSX motors (just kiddin).

From:
http://www.pontiacpower.net/castnum01.html

Pontiac engines have block code. This code will tell you the year it was to be used. However, these codes were used over from year to year. Together with the casting code and cating date you can determine where what the engine is. Starting in 1965 Pontiac began using a 2 digit letter code. Above the 2 digit code will be the motor unit number, which is either 6 or 7 digits. It is important to note that it is not related to the VIN number. As a general rule, "W" coded blocks are manual transmission and "Y" coded blocks are automatics. And most of the "Z" coded blocks are also auto. The "X" coded blocks are a little of both.

The Engine codes will be found on the front of passengers side of the block, below the head. Above the 2 digit code will be the motor unit number, which is either 6 or 7 digits. It is not related to the VIN number.

The VIN on Pontiac engines is located vertically just to the left of the passenger side of the Timing cover.

The block VIN and the vehicle VIN were the same, but by late 1967 the block VIN was revised. It started out with a 2 (for Pontiac), the last digit of the year and a letter for the assembly plant followed by the last 6 digits of the vehicle VIN. It was located on the front of the block, on the passengers side, at the bottom near the timing cover.

Common assembly letters are: A = Alanta, B = Baltimore, C (or S) = Califorina/Southgate, E = Linden, NJ, G = Framingham, MA, K = Kansas City, MO, L = Van Nuys, R = Arlington, TX, x = Kansas City, KN, 1 = Oshawa, Ont. Z = Fremont, CA.
*Note* This number sometimes is stamped very lightly and may be hard to read as seen in this picture. It is also interesting that this block has the VIN stamped twice on it.

(picture is sideways)




My theory is that someone ground off the 6 digit unit number thinking it was the VIN ala the Small Block Chevys. Codered has a picture of the faint but intact VIN located next to the timing cover.


Shay
____________
Semper Fortis

[andrewb70]

I learn something new every single day.

Andrew

[Code Red]

well over the weekend loaded the engine up in my truck and dropped it off at a shop for a rebuild and then today pressure washed the front frame looks a wee bit better but sould still use some work may just blast it a bit and then coat it

[Young Gun]

there is an attachment ive seen for power washers that you can hook it up so it does a mix of water and sand, ill look for it... you could rebuild to front suspension while the engine is off for the rebuild and coat the blasted frame with POR-15...just an idea...but it looks great!

[Young Gun]

something like this...

http://www.ultimatewasher.com/chemical-injectors.htm

[Code Red]

there is an attachment ive seen for power washers that you can hook it up so it does a mix of water and sand, ill look for it... you could rebuild to front suspension while the engine is off for the rebuild and coat the blasted frame with POR-15...just an idea...but it looks great!

front suspension has already been done I just didnt get the control arms blasted and coated when he springs and bushings were put in I still need to put the new shocks in

[gearheads78]

Only a few more bolts and the body could be of you know

What being done with the motor? stock rebuild ?