LS2 Questions

[PARKERRS]

I'm new to the ls platform and completely in the dark so to speak. I'm starting a new build of a '72 Camaro and picked up a good deal on an '07 LS2. I registered over at ls1tech but the e-mail hasn't come through to allow posting yet so I figured I'd ask a few newb questions here.
The engine was removed from an '07 vette convertible, the owner swapped in an LS7. To do the conversion they used the parts neccesary from this engine to convert the LS7 to wetsump. No problem with that as I needed an F-body oil pan and pick-up for my swap anyway. So I went to the GM dealer and purchased an F-body pan, pick-up, dipstick and tube, along with a new LS2 timing cover. I'm extremely comfortable with gen 1 small blocks and builds but know nothing about these so I purchased the shop manual for the '07 vette to have all of the torque specs, sequences, etc.
My first question: Are the specialty alignment tools neccessary for the timing cover and oil pan replacement? On the gen 1 this is not needed or done. 2ND question: What oil pump if other than stock for the LS2 is suggested and why? The original pump was used in the LS7 for the conversion. 3RD question: The service manual states to mark the balancer when removing as they are not keyed like the gen 1, I have not checked to see if it was marked when removed, but if I will be using an aftermarket drive set-up such as the one from ATS will this matter? Last parts question: This engine has the 58X reluctor wheel and came from a car with an auto trans. I will be installing a manual, will any LS type flywheel from Mcleod or others work or is it specific to order for an LS2 with the new style reluctor wheel? I don't know if there are dimensional differences between the cranks where the flywheel mounts or if the balance would be different.
I'll probably have a lot more questions as I go along, sorry to be long winded. I just like to get informed as much as possible when dealing with a new unit such as this.

Tommy

[WS6]

Flywheels will be the same through all the gen3/4 engines. the only one I question is the 6.0 that had a 4l80 behind it, but that does not matter here. A stock LS7 flywheel and clutch fits on an LS1/6/2.

balancer does not matter but marking before you remove is good practice. Since you are replacing, just pull it off and replace it. You'll have to be careful though as the crank bolt is different than Gen1/2 SBC and it's not common. Look into that more before you get to that point.

alignment tools are nice but not needed. To align the front simply start all the bolts. Get them almost tight, then put the balancer on. The balancer will center the front cover well enough. I would recommend you get the alignment tool if you mess with the rear cover which you have no reason to.

To align the oil pan you just need to remember that the bell housing bolts to it. So take a straight edge across the back of the block and make sure the pan sit in line with it. that way you don't have the bell housing bolts trying to bend anything together to create torque. The book will give you a tolerance on what is considered flush.

Stock LS2 oil pump and timing set up and all you need. If you plan on a cam, Comp Cams does make an adjustable timing setup that is fantastic. It is called Hex-a-just. However, simply sliding a cam in and putting the stock chain and sprockets on is fine.

The reluctor wheel is mounted inside the engine and has no affect on flywheel. It's purely for the ECM.

[Steve1968LS2]

What WS6 said

Oil pan alignment is critical so make sure you do it right, but no tools are needed.

If you need to buy an oil pump then I would suggest a ported one from a company like Katech. It's only a couple bucks more and it add a bit of "piece of mind". Stock timing chain is fine for most applications.

I've never marked a balancer when removing or changing it out.. I don't really see the point.

[PARKERRS]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the advice. Like I said this is a new animal to me so questions might be frequent. I know for a fact I will be doing a cam change, and I will probably just have my current 243 casting heads cnc ported,Ive not done enough research yet to know if an intake swap will gain anything on that combo. I do know the head bolts can't be reused and niether can the balancer bolt according to the service manual. I will be keeping the drive by wire and have already touched base with Speartech about a harness, pedal, and ecm. Now I just have to finalize my changes before getting them to program and ship it. Matt Murphy of GMMG has offered to help me get set up on the porting and a comp cam so I'll research and take suggestions for a while and then commit to a plan.

[Steve1968LS2]

Swapping to an LS6 intake is supposed to be better but they you have issues with the injector heigth and moving the MAP sensor. Unless you're going to spend the big $$ on a FAST intake I wouldn't bother.

The heads are LS6 castings and are preaty damn good. Just get them worked over. Add in a nice cam (and hardened pushrods) and you're good to go.

You will need to decide on an intake and such before getting the harness. If you switch from the ECM John will need to make the wire appropriate. If you switch to LS1 style injectors he will also need to make the plugs right for those.

[PARKERRS]

Thanks Steve I was curious about the stock LS2 intake compared with the LS6, I had been told that the 243 castings werethe same as LS6 so I figured with a porting they would be good to go, Thanks for the suggestion on the push rods. Is this a weak link due to a high lift cam or do you suggest the hardened units just to help in bulletproofing the valvetrain.

[Steve1968LS2]

Just because the stockers are prone to bending if you miss a shift.

Here's the intake hiarchy:

FAST>LS6>LS2>LS1

The diff between the LS6 and LS2 isn't that great.. the FAST is worth maybe 15-20 hp over the LS2, but it costs $800.

[andrewb70]

Just to add something about the flywheels. The LS1 and LS2/7 flywheels are the same with respect to the crank pattern and diameter. However, they are designed for different style clutches. So if you have an LS2, you must use a clutch that is designed for an LS2 flywheel. Clutches made for LS1 flywheels will not interchange. The LS1 style flywheel is flat, while the LS2 flywheels have pedestals where the cover (pressure plate) mounts.

Andrew

[PARKERRS]

Thanks Steve, Trey, and Andrew I'm starting to learn alot in a short time, all good info.

[WS6]

Good point Andrew. Whenever I mention clutch swaps I always assume the flywheel is being changed too simply because you should not surface these flywheels. I need to be more careful.

Parker, you may find it's cheaper to outright buy new CNC ported LS6 heads and sell the ones you have versus having them ported. Depends on who does the porting and where they are located. Shipping adds up. Vmax motorsports is down in Florida and they do a fantastic job. I have some pocket ported 5.3s and ported TB on the 5.3 I am using. I've seen their work on LS6 and other heads and it's top notch. I do not know of anyone in ATL that does head porting other than Grimes maybe. I don't think he does CNC though. You'll make a great deal of power with ported LS6 heads and a cam. Even using the factory intake and throttle body will hardly affect your numbers. One suggestion though, have Speartech do a speed density harness and make sure the tuner programs the ECM for speed density only. That way you don't have to worry about a MAF or the wires for it.

[PARKERRS]

Matt over at GMMG said he could send the heads off with some of his for porting since he does several sets on a regular basis. I didn't ask who he was using but he mentioned that he sends them to Michigan. Please bare with my ignorance, could you explain more about the speed density programming as opposed to using a maf. I was browsing around over at ls1tech and saw the name of a place that ports the stock LS2 intake and wonder if that is worth enough gain for the trouble, I think they were called port works. Leaving town for a few days this afternoon so replys to anyone will be after I return. It's family vacation and I leave the computers and everything home and just hang out with the wife and kids.

[WS6]

Speed density uses only the manifold pressure to determine air flow. The MAF sensor actually senses air flow. So a MAF is not needed. If you do a search on LS1tech about speed density you will find a lot of info. GM used speed density on the 90-93 Corvettes and Fbodies. TBI truck motors were a speed density design as well.