procharged 406 help!

[cal70rs]

I am going to build a procharged small block 406. I know that I would like to have 700 to 800 hp, and still be streetable. Would like some input what kind of crank, pistons, rods and other parts thats would make that kind of power? Any input from would be great.

clint

[camcojb]

There are some nice inexpensive rotating assemblies from Scat, Eagle, etc. that would be fine at that level. The last ProCharged 406 I did makes 700 rwhp on 14 psi of boost. It has an Eagle crank and rods with Ross blower pistons. Compression is 8.9:1. He's running a hydraulic roller cam .572/.600 with 242/[email protected] on a 114 lsa. Ran just as good with a .555/.572 lift and .236/.242 on a 114 lsa and made more vacuum for the power brakes.

You'll want a good cylinder head, but nothing exotic is required. He has a Vic Jr. head with a Stage IV port job. Run it both as a blow-through carb and EFI. The ProCharger is a D1SC although a P1SC would also reach your HP goal.

I also like to spend the $250 and have the pistons ceramic barrier coated; allows more boost/timing on pump gas which is more power.

[Lowend]

Camcojb would certainly know a bit about Procharged 406's...
A few suggestions here to start:

If you really plan to run this kind of power, a factory block is not a good idea. Pop the money for a World Sportsman Block, they are much stronger and will actually make more power (slightly) due to less flexing of the bores. Yes you can prep a OE block to take this kind of power, but after all the various bits and machine work you will end up spending about the same as an aftermarket block.

A motor like this needs good connecting rods. If anything will break on a ultra-hi HP small block the connecting rod will go first. I am a big fan of Crower rods, take a look at the Stroker Billet series.
It is better to sacrafice some rod length to keep the piston pin out of the rings. I would stay with a 5.7" rod.

The Crank is a little less critical, I think Scat has been doing some excellent work with their Forged standard weight cranks of late.

Studs, you need to Stud the heads, the mains... its a PITA but its important.

Don't go nuts on the cam, I find that most supercharged motors like duration @ 050 to be less than 240, keep the Lobe Seperation wide (112-116)

I will one up Camco's suggestion for coated pistons, and reccomend also having your combustion chambers coated as well

[Fuelie Fan]

Have any of you done back to back testing with piston coatings to quantify how much of an improvement it offers?

[camcojb]

Have any of you done back to back testing with piston coatings to quantify how much of an improvement it offers?

I have been able to run a few degrees more timing and 2-3 psi more boost on the same 91 octane with it though. What I mean is that on the ZL-1 I initially didn't have coated pistons and could run 12 psi and about 26 degrees of total timing on 91 octane (no intercooler). When I went through the motor I had the pistons and exhaust valves coated, everything else remained the same. I could then run 14 psi and 29-30 degrees of total timing on 91 octane. It would detonate on those numbers before the coating.

The extra 2 psi of boost a 3-4 degrees of timing was definitely noticeable, but I don't have any hard numbers because we couldn't get a full pull on the uncoated version (trans problems).

If you want some hard numbers and a lot of back-to-back info on coatings and blown motors contact Scott at SD Concept Engineering. He's the one who educated me on the power difference available if I was willing to spend a couple bucks on the coatings.
SD Concept Engineering

I don't build a blown motor without the coatings anymore. Even my new billet motor for my 03 Lightning will have the coated pistons as I will be running a lot of boost on pump gas.

Jody

[Dave95Z28]

Jody, did he ever change out the single plane style EFI manifold for a Stealth Ram? If so, how did that end up working out?

Dave

[camcojb]

Jody, did he ever change out the single plane style EFI manifold for a Stealth Ram? If so, how did that end up working out?

Dave

The manifold is on the car but he never finished the intake tube from the blower; my guess is he doesn't want to know if it doesn't work! So the car just sits in my shop looking pretty!

Jody

[Lowend]

... why are you messin with it; that car works great how it sits.

[camcojb]

... why are you messin with it; that car works great how it sits.

You talking to me or Clint?

Jody

[Lowend]

You Jody -
That car made 700RWHP@6000RPM on pump gas... its not like it needs more power.

[camcojb]

You Jody -
That car made 700RWHP@6000RPM on pump gas... its not like it needs more power.

Very true, but we're trying to get rid of that weird spot at 2100-2200 rpm. Otherwise it would be a done deal already.

Jody

[Lowend]

It's still doing that huh... You think its the intake manifold?
I hadn't really considered a mechanical problem; I suppose you could be getting some strange pulse wave through the intake. I think I would try putting a carb spacer under the TB to see if it alters the RPM of the studder

[camcojb]

Yeah, still doing it. The Accel DFI manifold has very short runners and there's definitely reversion going on from the look of the intake. Too late to try the spacer, already had the manifold converted for an LT1!

Jody