How can they live???

[3pedals]

this is my first post here on pro-touring .com, and this topic of gus68's is exactly the type of problem I am having with my manual trans setup.....breakage/bog/or spin, no in between. I too think that the Macloed soft-lock is the way to go, but that the huge $$$ is too much. I have tryed many different clutch setups: -1 stock diaphram plate/organic disc - resulted in great drivability but the clutch just couldnt hold the power - no surprise. 2 then steped up to more pedal pressure (3200lb borg+beck)w/ organic disc - resulted in clutch holding more power, but the organic material just doesnt hold big power no matter what, and if it does slip it's toast instantly. 3 went to a bronse metalic lined disc w/ the 3200lb pressure plate - resulted in the clutch holding all the power, but there is no middle ground between engaged and disengaged. I am not able to leave the line without either boging(when I try lower revs like below 3500) or blowing the tires off(when I leave at anything more thant 3500rpm). this clutch has also resulted in every single thing behind it being destroyed 1 by 1. I now have a dana60 as the 12 bolt snapped like a twig, I ran a mopar 833 4-speed - it seemed the strongest oem 4-speed I could find and adapt to my BBC, only broke 1 of theese, all the gm 4-speeds are just shrapnel lol. drive shafts & U-joinst must be GOOD stuff to last. I feel that I need to slip the clutch a tiny bit on the launch in order to be gentler to the parts, and hook the power. I have not tryed a Centerforce, many guys tell me that this dual friction thing will solve my problems(and maybe yours too gus68), but I am very skeptical since 1/2 of that friction material is kevlar and that stuff is junk as it glazes instantly if sliped. just like you gus I need a solution, but there is no friggin way I'm going to an auto now cause I just bought a TKO 600 for my camaro, and I'm gonna make it work 1 way or the other. I want to know if any one here has real drag racing experience with a centerforce dual friction and a car similar to gus68's or mine. here is a quick rundown of mine, 67 camaro 454 (had) 4-speed) 4.10's, engine has run a best of 12.00 @ 116, best 60ft is 1.86. cant get this thing out of the hole because of the clutch. engine doesnt make usable power below around 3000 and really comes on the cam at 36-3700. running 28-12.5 ET streets for tires.
ps didnt mean to highjack your threat gus68, but I thought our troubles were very much the same.

[Madspeed]

You want to play?
You gotta pay
GForce trans is 7 k is said to take 1200 hp
Clutch? Yes you are going to have to slip it. Will it waste clutches ? Umm yes it will but once again. you want to play? you gotta pay$$$$

[paul67]

When you get to the end of the 1/4 trap what revs are you at and is that the max the engine can run at or do you have more .

[3pedals]

If that question is for me, I dont remember exactly, but I think around 5600 in the lights, and I dont rev the motor more than 6200.

[3pedals]

It seems no-one really has any good technical advice.
I am going to try a ram 910 sintered iron friction disc and alot less pressure plate - 22-2400lbs

[3pedals]

OK, I finnally got through to the tech lines at Mcleod and Ram clutches. the concensus is that GUS68, you and I both need single sintered iron friction disc's, w/non-sprung hubs, EXTREEMLY low static pressure on the pressure plates (ram recomended 600lbs!!!!! for my mild BBC) and use an adjustable long style plate. I priced out the Ram parts from Summit :
part # 470 400-940lb adjustable long style plate - $395.99
" " 1363 sintered iron 10.5" solid hub disc - $210.99
" " 550 pressure plate shims - $24.39
OK, this ads up to $ 631.37 + steel flywheel - $252.95(if you dont allready have). this is double what a centerforce costs, but its ALOT less expensive than replacing another trans or differential etc... I'm told I will be able to tune the clutch to hook on my puny 275/60 drag radials!!! and I wont be SMASHING parts anymore!!!
All I can say is - Sold

[RSX302]

OK OK OK... I see it in magizines, in this forum and everywhere else. All these kick ass cars with MEGGA kick ass motors, Nitrous, superchargers, TWIN turbos!!! Big blocks, Big bore small blocks. And here';s the part I don't understand..... 4, 5 and 6 speed manual trannys!!! HOW tell me, HOW can they live?????!!!!!!! I have a chevelle with a simple 406 small block with camel back heads, Edlebrock carb, bla bla bla.. And I have destroyed muncies, and a Liberty pro shifted super T-10, not to mension spider gears in my 12 bolt posi, U-joints, yolks, even twisted the wheel studs, and clutches. Now I have a FORD Toploader with liberty proshifted gears, And I cant make the clutch live or launch the thing right. I Also have a buddy with a 70 road runner with a 440. He too had a proshifted Hemi 4 speed and a DANA.... DANA!!!! He broke his 4-speed many times and fixed it and finnaly bought a Tremmec. First time out with the tremmec, FIRST TIME!! He blew the spider gears out of the back of the DANA.... D A N A, DANA!!! Oh and its not some old mopar rear it was a fairly new Strange S 60!!
So what gives??? what am I missing??? What magic parts do I need to buy???????? Don't tell me not to abuse it, If thats the case then why have the twin turboed 434 aluminum headed small block with the latest front suspension and 9" rear. Cause if we wernt supposed to abouse the cars we build then we might as well build a 305 with crappy heads and a 2 barrel stock front drums and 10 bolt rear, atleast that muncie would survive!!!

Answer to your question.....They don't if you run it!
See my thread on T56 vs 750hp

[3pedals]

Answer to your question.....They don't if you run it!
See my thread on T56 vs 750hp

Ronracer - let me guess - you run a very agressive (grabby) clutch

[RSX302]

Ronracer - let me guess - you run a very agressive (grabby) clutch

It is a twin disc and its good to 1000hp, but its surprisingly smooth...I babied the T56 because I knew it was my weak link. No power shifting or hard launches. Stock T56's don't like shifting at 7500rpm either. It won't go... Mine blew at 7000rpm in 3rd. (~750hp) It’s now off to G-Force for the T56 upgrade good for 1000hp to match the clutch. I will now have $4000 less in my pocket. But I'm pretty sure I won't be doing this again.

[strangler]

I have a waist-high pile of Muncie's and Super t-10's that have grenaded in my car. Nothing like losing a street race because the countershaft blows out the bottom of the trans. Looks pretty funny laying in the middle of the street though.