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    Results 21 to 22 of 22
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      64
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm suprised that nobody mentioned the reversed tape method, with all the old schoolers in here. when I was in school one of my instructors showed me how to fix a run in the booth, before it's dry. he always said a run or sag is less costly to fix in the booth. I've been using the same method for about 10 years.

      all you do when you notice the run, hopefully before it's dry, is you take some masking tape and wrap it around you four fingers with the adheasive out. pull it off your hand and dap the run with the tape. the adheasive on the tape will pull the run off the car. now, when the run is pulled off the car sometimes you will have to bridge the area with more clear. what I mean by bridging is that you will have to let the clear flash off properly, lower your fluid flow and your air pressure. narrow your flow pattern to about the size of a half dollar (coin) and apply it to the area where the run was. let it flash again and then apply more clear, and so on until you build (bridge) the area to the same level as the surrounding area. when you are satisfied that the area is level to surrounding area allow it to flash one more time and then give the whole panel another coat. I know, I know, it sounds like alot of work. in all honesty though, the whole process shouldn't take more than 20-25 minutes, which in my opinion beats the hell out of wet sanding and buffing for 45min. to and hour.

      now, in a WORST case scenario you might still see a very, very slight wave in the clear where the run used to be, but if your planning to wet sand and buff the whole panel this will be taken care of in that process. if your NOT planning on wet sanding and buffing the panel then I doubt the wave would be serious enough to pose any concern.

      hope this helps someone one day. good luck to all.



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      washington state
      Posts
      31

      runs

      I usually round both of the sharp corners off the razor blade with some 80 grit, so you don't have worry about digging a trench in the clear. after shaving it down a little ,you can use some 800 grit/w water wraped around a short wood paint stir-stick, to smooth it up, then polish it out. also if your concerned about breaking through, put some masking tape right next to the run ,so your not sanding on the thinner areas. Thats how I fixed the 1 run that I had lol...

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