DARN! Tie-Rods!!

[1Fine69]

Ok so i take the car off the jacks after modifying the last of things(exhaust) and i realize something. After the dropper springs and tubular control arms and dropped spindles and qua1's coilover etc. the tie rods are hitting the rims! good thing i didnt try and pull out of the garage. I cant put wheel spacers on because the tires hit the fenders instantly(with 7/16). Has anyone been able to fix this problem? maybe adjusting the arms from the spindle to tie rod or adding a couple washers??? Im not going with brand new rims with different offset thats for sure! Please help!

[Damn True]

Which steering arms are you using?

[Mean 69]

And spindles, wheel backspacing, and any other relevent info, please. What else did you change at the same time? It'll get figured out, just take a deep breath, and don't throw any big wrenches.

I know how you feel, so do so many others. Not an easy hobby sometimes.
M

[Blown353]

You could ream the holes in the steering arm to no taper and run heim joints. They'll buy you a bit more clearance.

Keep in mind changing the height of the balljoint will alter the bumpsteer characteristics of the suspension... and often not for the better.

Troy

[Damn True]

You could ream the holes in the steering arm to no taper and run heim joints. They'll buy you a bit more clearance.

Keep in mind changing the height of the balljoint will alter the bumpsteer characteristics of the suspension... and often not for the better.

Troy

Let's not get crazy just yet. The solution might be as simple as swapping a steering arm.

[1Fine69]

Using heidts 2 inch drop spindles, global west upper and lowers. wheel backspacing is the same. im using the stock steering arms. does that help?

[1Fine69]

im going to talk to heidts tomorow but maybe i can heat up the arm and bend it just a little? im desperate. i still dont even know if the wheels will rub even without the spacers but i wanna get this tie rod thing fixed. does anybody make modified steering arms?

[TitoJones]

We've thought of offering modified steering arms to help solve that problem (the culprit is the 2" drop spindles you're running) but the main issue is that the drag link would have to be raised the same amount as the steering arms to keep the bumpsteer from going bezerk. So it would become an expensive steer arm/drag link combo at that point.
Best solution is to go back to a factory spindle or one with less of a drop in it.

Tyler

[David Pozzi]

This happens way too often. Anyone with wide wheels should NOT consider 2" drop spindles.
The ATS spindle is only 1" drop and would cause fiewer problems.

On a Heidt spindle, you could try some front steer Chevelle or Monte-Carlo arms, they would raise the tie rod ends an inch or so which might help but bumpsteer is going to suffer unless you can raise the inboard end the same amount. You can try to space your current arms inboard with some washers. How much inboard do they need to be moved?
Are your steering arms long or short? What is the part number on them?

[1Fine69]

not sure about the part number ill have to check this afternoon. i probably need about 7/16(to be safe) to be clear of the wheel. when i had the stock rear ride hieght and the different shocks with coil over the front was laready lower than the rear. I told my dad that we didnt need all 2 inches and it would be to low but he thought it would look better if it worked. we lowered the back 3 incehs but then lowered the front 2 when it was laready lower. I think a 1 inch drop would work perfect. Were going to try some washers to space a little more. well see what happens

[BonzoHansen]

im going to talk to heidts tomorow but maybe i can heat up the arm and bend it just a little?

Maybe someone smarter than I will jump in, but I am pretty sure that is a bad idea, probably for a few reasons (comprimising the strength of the metal, no way to make them the same from side to side, etc)

[1Fine69]

thats what i was thinking but i have become desperate

[baz67]

Just put the stock height spindles on and be done with it. K.I.S.S. Your experience is exactly why 2" dropped spindles do not belong on a PT first gen.

[bretcopsey]

My vote is to ditch the spindles in favor of the stock ones and make up for the height difference with the springs...

Try selling the spindles on eBay if you can't return them to Heidt's

[BonzoHansen]

Hey, maybe I am wrong, but weren’t there different arms on 1st gens, like a m/s version and a p/s version? Or am I confusing myself?

And NJ is fine. :P

[bretcopsey]

There are three different length steering arms that I am aware of. I sent a picture to David Pozzi a few years ago, he may stil have it on his site. Swapping the arms may fix the problem, but finding the shorter arms may prove difficult.

*EDIT*

It's still there, a little over half way down the page:
http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_st...eering_linkage

[Damn True]

My vote is to ditch the spindles in favor of the stock ones and make up for the height difference with the springs...

Ding, ding, ding! Winner.

Drop spindles have always struck me as a band-aid.

[69protour]

What backspacing on your rims? I've got 4" BS on mine with 2" drop spindles and I don't have any issues. I've talked to GW when I ordered my uppers and lowers and they said no more than 4 5/8" BS. Works great so far.. Just my .02 Trond

[1Fine69]

lemme ask pops and ill get back to you. i wanan try using washers first. 5 washers making up a half inch cant change the bumpsteer that much can it??? if thats no good then i hope i can find different length arms. ill find out the backspacing and let you know

[baz67]

It may not affect bumpsteer much, but what about the added leverage to the bolts? Those are the last bolts that you want the sheer. You are making this way to complicated. Remember KISS. You are only going to get the car so low until the K-member hits every pebble on the road.