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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Long Island, NY
      Posts
      11,320
      Country Flag: United States
      I think astroracer has the best idea here.

      Don't discount a thieves intelligence. Back in the early 80s, my Dad had his '66 Corvette sandwhiched inbetween two cars (3-5" between bumpers), and he had a cut off switch on it. In brooklyn, car theft is always a problem, and my Dad was extremely paranoid. He used to wake up every hour or two and check to make sure his car was still there. To make a long story short, he woke up one morning around 3AM, and the car was gone. A couple of thieves had wedged it out from between the two cars and loaded it onto a flatbed. He actually wound up finding the car down the block on the exact same flatbed and got it back. Moral of the story is, if someone wants your car bad enough, they'll get it.

      However, a kill switch can be a good deterrant, but a kill switch in a place like the cigeratte lighter, or the defroster, one of the buttons on the dash, etc. is almost useless. The thieves know all the tricks we do, and when they get into a car and it won't start, they start pushing buttons until it does, it won't take them but a minute or two to figure out one of the simple switches. This is why Mark's idea is so good, as they'll probably try to start it first, before looking for the switch.

      Another good idea for a cut off switch is a two stage one. Where two things need to be done at once, or two buttons need to be activated, etc., for the car to start.

      Last edited by Ralph LoGrasso; 01-10-2006 at 10:01 PM.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      489
      I have a couple safety nets built into the truck. The new trucks have a ton of tight spaces so I wired a switch into the 12v on the standalone PCM. It's in a location where even if I told you exactly where it was would take a few minutes to figure out.

      Also made it very easy for the car to be impossible to drive away. Wired the standalone with some twist lock bullet plugs. If you know where the pcm is, takes 20 seconds to remove the whole thing. Good luck going anywhere with out that. Makes me worry less if I'm going to be gone for a while out of town.

      Or you could just remove your coil wire, or pull the fuel pump fuse if you use an electric pump.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      You guys have me wondering now... I'll have to get into the car to check the wiring. I thought I made a diagram when I did it but I looked last night and can't find it. I know it was pretty simple and I think I used a dp/dt (on-off-on) switch so the "off" side would go hot when the ignition was turned on and blow the fuse but I'm not sure. Let me look this weekend or maybe one of our wiring guru's can figure it out...
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/




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