LS powered 67 Mustang re-do

[DCx]

I got all of the brake lines plumbed and all of the C5 brakes bolted in. I also dropped in the motor today. I added new GM exhaust manifold gaskets and new NGK colder plugs for the turbo. I would have installed the transmission but i goofed on the clutch and ordered a LS7 clutch and pressure plate and failed to get the proper flywheel. I have an aluminum fidonza LS1 flywheel and a stock LS1 flywheel kicking around. I can either buy the correct LS7 flywheel or buy the correct LS1 clutch and pressure plate. The cheaper option is to get an LS7 flywheel.

Enjoy the pics. More to come.












How do you all think my waste gate dump will work?

[digitalsolo]

The wastegate priority is very good, should work excellent.

[DCx]

Ls1 v Ls7 flywheel



Look at this rats nest, holley wiring is good but i have no idea who designed the harness layout. lots of ends are too short or too long.



got the dash installed to monitor the engine

[DCx]

look at this thick ass primer! and for all you wondering, I bought an eastwood contour sct and it kicks ass on FLAT surfaces only! the rest was wire wheel and a rust stripping disk.





















Repo rear valance fit OK

[DCx]

Well guys, its been a year... had lots of ups and downs, switched jobs twice, but i never stopped tinkering on the car. Its actually up and running. The holley efi was super simple to slap on the car. I am using the base turbo LS tune. About the hardest thing i had to do was adjust the throttle body blade to achieve a better hot IAC position. As it sat it would idle but die when you revved it. I had to remove the throttle body 5-6 times to get it just right, now I can rev the engine til the blow off valve opens and it will just idle down as normal.

After I got it running, about March of this year I walked away from it while i adjusted to new jobs and income. I have since started to strip the entire car and piece by piece put it all in SPI black epoxy. Man the car is pretty dented under all that nasty ass buff primer and old body work. who ever did the body work did a great job but the car sat outside for so long i had no choice but to take it down to bare metal.

Here comes the pictures. Feel free to ask questions.

[andrewb70]

Glad to see you making progress!

[Chad-1stGen]

Man, I remember your first build thread. Glad to hear you finally got this thing drivable (before tearing it down again). Did you get any video of it running?

[DCx]

Man, I remember your first build thread. Glad to hear you finally got this thing drivable (before tearing it down again). Did you get any video of it running?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7tpK50X1LMo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

why isnt the youtube video not working?

https://youtu.be/7tpK50X1LMo

[Chad-1stGen]

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7tpK50X1LMo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

why isnt the youtube video not working?

https://youtu.be/7tpK50X1LMo

Don't use the embed code. Use either the share URL or default URL with the [ video ] tags.

[qnitro]

great update

[DCx]

Not much else to add. Still putting the car in epoxy one panel at a time. I did the door shells and cowl this last weekend.

[digitalsolo]

Progress is looking good. Those are some real PITA steps, haha. Good work keeping on it!

[DCx]

Not much to update, Still putting the car in epoxy. I stripped the last fender and hung one of the doors on the body. I also mocked up the trunk lid and tail extensions.





I also found some odd damage on my driver side fender. I stripped off all the paint and and found a bunch of flux weld boogers all over the wheel lip and some heavy bondo. I sand blasted just the wheel arch/lip and discovered all this mess.





looks like someone did a horrible job on that wheel lip. I welded it back up and grinded all the welds down. there were so many little pits and holes i had to fill will small tacks.

[DCx]

I had a ton of sway bar issues with the car. I bought a 1" big block sway bar years ago and attempted to install it on my car. To no avail the bar fit horrible and seemed to not line up with the control arm at all. It also hit the frame. I got frustrated and ripped the big block bar off my dads 67 fastback and it too fit horrible on my car. I lined them up next to each other and noticed my bars end link brackets were bent at a weird angle.







I got super frustrated and grabbed a brand new 1'' sway bar from Global West. My folks only live a few miles from their headquarters. While I was there I picked up some 1/2" poly coil spring spacers. I think I cut my springs too low. Any way, the Global West bar fell right into my car! its dimensions were different (assuming its a small block style bar?) and the end link sides looked longer too. I also added some energy suspension frame bushings, they offer the best bolt spacing and adjustability over the other 3 pair of bushings and brackets I have laying around. Here is the end result of the new bar!

suspension while on the lift, Nothing is tight yet





Suspension while on the ground, Nothingtight yet



And lastly I tossed a fender onto my car to see the right height. I think i need to bring it up a tiny bit. I can barely fit my finger between the tire and fender. 225/45/18 on an 18x8 wheel 4.5 back space.

[DCx]

Happy Thanksgiving!

I got a little work done before dinner today. I finally received my Opentracker roller spring perches so I tossed those into the car as well as my 1/2 poly Global West spring isolators. I think I have the perfect ride height now. I can fit 2 fingers between the front tire and fender. I have the same gap in the rear as well. I also messed around with the alignment and tie rods.







Here is the side by side comparison

[andrewb70]

The ride height looks great!

[jaybee]

I haven't driven a car with roller spring perches but all over the web people who've put them in rave about them.

[DCx]

Not much to update on the car... I have been dealing with some drama with another car I bought this summer. Details are in this thread.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...to-buy-it-back

I finally wired in my C6 pwm fan per andrews instructions, Thank you! works great. Aside from that I ran the wiring to the tail lights, wired the electric speedo, and ran power to my reverse lights. its all loomed and clean. Next up is to clean up some wiring inside the car and wire in the headlights.

I added a 10mm speedbleeder to the clutch line and got that all ready to go. I have rowed through all the gears while the car was on the lift. No grinding in any gear. next up is to program the auto meter speedo. I used this same process on my 69 camaro and it is now very accurate! Only problem was, it took quite a while with the car in jack stands to achieve the proper number on the speedo.

tire revolutions per mile x gear ratio x 17 (pulses for t56) x 2 (autometer uses a 2 mile estimate) =

789 x 3.73 x 17 x2 = 100,060 on the autometer speedo program.

I will be working on the car sometime this week.

[jaybee]

Oof, what a mess with the other Mustang! That'll take up your time for sure.

[DCx]

Did some work on the car today. I managed to tidy up all the turn signal wiring, brake lights, reverse lights, fuel sender, cigarette lighter and the fan. Not much to show but here is a current picture of the engine, trunk and the dash area.



I still need to wire the headlight and loom the rest of the wires coming out of the firewall to the starter. Other than that she is turn key! I also added a global west monte carlo bar. It fits under the turn signal hood. I also have a global west shock tower brace to add as well.



The cord hanging down is the USB link for the Holley HP EFI. I misplaced my glove box latch. I may need to order another.



Found this plastic radio delete on the internet last year. It fits okay. it needs to be painted to match the shade of the dash. My car is super loud, I doubt it will ever have a radio.



This is the first gen aeromotive stealth 340 tank.. The fuel lines exit the trunk through bulkheads. It's all PTFE line.


The exposed wiring is an aeromotive fuel pump relay harness and fan wiring. Everything terminates into the Taylor aluminum battery box, housing an optima redtop.





I might change the fuel fittings to the bulkheads. At the time i plumbed the lines 45* fittings were on backorder so I used the straights I had laying around. Angling the fuel lines down will prevent the arch. So far it runs and idles great.