What are you using for fuel lines?

[cpd004]

Is 3/8 the preferred size for an LS?

[eville]

Stainless is nice, but if you're bending your own lines, I strongly suggest NiCopp. It's way easier to work with and will not corrode. Stainless is very hard to flare.

Andrew

I have a Ridgid 377 AN flare tool. Will I be ok with flaring stainless 3/8 line?

[DT69Cam]

Great video, can you use that flaring tool with stainless hardline ??

[andrewb70]

Great video, can you use that flaring tool with stainless hardline ??

As I recall, the instructions say that stainless can be flared as long as the wall thickness is .035" or less.

After working with NiCopp, I don't know why anyone would use stainless.

[XLexusTech]

PTFE hose... Fragolia is the brad I used

[andrewb70]

Is 3/8 the preferred size for an LS?

Yes, unless you're planning on 600+HP

[Interceptor5588]

I'll be relatively stock with a cam, ported and polished 243 heads and headers. I expect the engine to get 500hp at the crank so I've heard that I can't use the stock fuel lines....any truth to this?

What he said. What EFI HP can you support with the factory steel lines? I believe they are 3/8" ID.

[DT69Cam]

As I recall, the instructions say that stainless can be flared as long as the wall thickness is .035" or less.

After working with NiCopp, I don't know why anyone would use stainless.

25' of NiCopp is 60.00. 6' piece of SS is 18.00 LOL If I need more or change directions, I will go with the NiCopp. Thanks Andrew.

[andrewb70]

25' of NiCopp is 60.00. 6' piece of SS is 18.00 LOL If I need more or change directions, I will go with the NiCopp. Thanks Andrew.

We all have our preferences. If SS works for you, go for it. It's a great material, but certainly harder to work with.

Andrew

[andrewb70]

I case people are wondering, I have merged two threads that cover the same topic.

Andrew

[eville]

As I recall, the instructions say that stainless can be flared as long as the wall thickness is .035" or less.

After working with NiCopp, I don't know why anyone would use stainless.

I was planning to just use a factory replacement hardline and add a AN flare on the engine side

[andrewb70]

I was planning to just use a factory replacement hardline and add a AN flare on the engine side

Regular steel lines are not a problem.

[slimjim]

Last week I purchased 25' of 3/8" NiCopp and stainless clamps and with no experience knocked out my fuel line in a couple of hours, I practiced prior on spare tube, overall it was quite enjoyable and came out great. the ends are still waiting to be flared

[Jketron]

PTFE line

[cpd004]

Last week I purchased 25' of 3/8" NiCopp and stainless clamps and with no experience knocked out my fuel line in a couple of hours, I practiced prior on spare tube, overall it was quite enjoyable and came out great. the ends are still waiting to be flared

I'm eventually going to be at this point myself. I'm going to be going with Nicopp as I was quite pleased as to how it went when doing brake line. I only needed to do the front as far as that was concerned.

The fuel line has me somewhat nervous as I'm going to be basically doing it on my on the floor of the garage under the car which is just over 1' off the ground. It seems like it won't be very easy to get it tight to the body and subframe from down there.

Plus, I'll need to figure out a good way to straighten it. I think Jim said he somehow uses a truck and yanks it straight?!?

[AU Doc]

I just picked up some 3/8 NiCopp myself. First step is going to be to figure out how to straighten it.

Edit: Are you guys using gravel guard on your fuel lines?

[slimjim]

I'm eventually going to be at this point myself. I'm going to be going with Nicopp as I was quite pleased as to how it went when doing brake line. I only needed to do the front as far as that was concerned.

The fuel line has me somewhat nervous as I'm going to be basically doing it on my on the floor of the garage under the car which is just over 1' off the ground. It seems like it won't be very easy to get it tight to the body and subframe from down there.

Plus, I'll need to figure out a good way to straighten it. I think Jim said he somehow uses a truck and yanks it straight?!?

I jacked my car up and did it exactly like you plan to, the difficult bends I made using short pipe first, then basically transferred the measurements to the final piece, practice bends helped a lot.

I just picked up some 3/8 NiCopp myself. First step is going to be to figure out how to straighten it.

Edit: Are you guys using gravel guard on your fuel lines?

order some nylon window rollers, some guys made their straightener out of angle iron or similar, I merely screwed them onto a piece of wood and put a 3/8" clamps at either side, for $7 it did the job, there's a pic in my thread. I also used gravel guard where I deemed it necessary, just for a piece of mind.

[Ducs]

What are your opinions on the Russell Twist-Lok hose offered in this kit:

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd453.htm

[AU Doc]

I haven't used it yet but I bought the tanks inc kit with that hose. However, the plan for now is to run hardline from the back to the front.

[davisca455]

Couple of details to keep in mind when flaring SS tubes:
Properly preparing the tube ends is everything when working with stainless tubing. If the ends aren't smooth and burr free they can split when you try to flare them. Major disappointment will result, when after you get your tube bent to perfection, the flare splits because the end wasn't paid the attention it deserved.
I don't recommend using a rolling wheel style tube cutter either because the SS will work harden. When that happens, it's really difficult to clamp the tube well enough to keep it from slipping when performing the flaring operation.
At work, I prefer to cut the tube ends with a band saw. Then sand the ends square on the vertical belt sander. Sand enough material so that you remove all evidence that a band saw was used (remove the stress risers). Then I gently deburr the ID edge (45* countersink cutter) and carefully deburr the OD edge with a file. Make sure to thoroughly clean the inside of the tube prior to use.
At home, I have used a hacksaw, file and a 3 sided deburring knife instead of the bandsaw, belt sander and countersink cutter.