Cutlass/A-Body lowering - shock, spring question

[DewChugr]

I've got a 71 Cutlass convertible that I am restoring. I'd like to lower it a bit using stock control arms and no fancy expensive stuff. I need help picking parts. The car is going to have an aluminum 5.3 and a glass OAI hood, not sure about the trans yet. I'd like to get a look similar to the one in the photo below. Also like to run 11" or possibly 10" wide by 18" or 17" wheels in the back. I'm thinking tall ball joints as a start, but how do I find springs and shocks to give me a ride like that? I don't know how the 5.3 and hood will affect the ride height. Has anyone done one like this?

[Jeff70]

I've seen several Cutlass with BMR springs that had a nice ride height. ridetech also has the new street grip springs and shocks that seem to have a decent height. If it's a street car take a look at cars with 19/20 combo I think it look best on the A-bodys.

[pitts64]

You could trim the springs back a little at a time.. It's a lot of work and remember, as you trim, the drop in NOT proportionate the amount removed.. The more you remove the harder the ride is going to be.. I took a whole ring off my old 64 Pontiac and it rode like it had solid tires!

You would be better off buying a good set of springs..

[DewChugr]

If I am right the 5.3 is about 100 pounds lighter than the 350 I had but a 4L80 is about 60 pounds heavier while the T56 is about the same weight as a TH350. If I shop for springs based on a stock 442 will the 4-100 pounds difference in weight much difference in the ride height in the front over "advertised" height with those springs?

[andrewb70]

I have a feeling that the car in the photo is on air bags. It's sitting really low for an A-body. Looking at the front, I doubt that it can even turn without ripping the fender off.

Andrew

[bret]

In order to fine tune a specific ride height, especially with an unknown/uncertain drivetrain, I would recommend a coilover package. The ability to tune ride height and spring rate will prove to be helpful. The streetgrip system is perfect if you know exactly what drivetrain will be in the car AND you are happy with our selection of ride height, but it offers no ability to customize ride height or spring rate.

[BMR Sales]

Coilovers will give you the most adjustability, but at a Price. For Lowering Springs, I would say 2", but you still might need to trim them

[DewChugr]

Thanks everyone! Coil overs and tubular arms aren't in the picture right now. I have to pay for bodywork and paint since I can't do that so I am trying to stay as budget as possible with most everything else. I'd just like to lower it a bit to alter the look.

[Jeff70]

It can be done without air bags, Your gonna need roughly 2-1/2- 3" of drop.

I've owned several A-body's with 3" lowering springs, it won't ride the best, it won't correct the short falls from the factory geometry but it's a great "budget" option to achieve the look your going for.

One of my old Monte Carlo had Hotchkis springs up front that I believe I cut 1 coil off and had 3" drop springs out back from CPP. I don't recall if I had the CPP or Hotchkis in the rear in this pic.

At the time my go to tire was a Dunlop GT Quailifer in 265/50/15 square, good luck finding that size now. ��

If your budget allows for 2 piece billet wheels check out US-Mags and Foose they have a billet version of the SSII rally wheel.






A pic of my Cutlass

[DewChugr]

Nice Cutlass and thanks for the info. I have to run 18" or possibly 17" wheels to clear the C6 brakes I am going to use. I like these wheels, but they are pricey.

[DreKoushRanada]

I love seeing Cutlass/4-4-4"s on this site. I can't wait until I am done with mine.

[jetmech442]

Hey DewChugr,
I have converted to a LQ9(6.0L Iron block) with a T56 trans. I am running hotchkis 1'' drop springs for a SB chevy. 2'' drops on my spindles, and a tall lower ball joint(it is 3/4'' taller, which due to motion ratio drops a total of 1.5''). The last 1.5'' from the BJ sent me over the edge(looks wise as well as sitting my tire on top of the fender literally). I installed a 3/4 SPC spacer under the spring to boost me back up to where I was(but still get the benefits of the tall lower joint.

In back I am running the (I think )9'' circle track springs from speedway. I'll try and double check when I get back. For tires I'm running 18x10 front and back(C6Z06 rims) and 285/35 front and 295/45 in back. I'll post some pics in a few.

For front suspension, I'm using the SC&C front adjustable arms with tall upper and lower ball joints, they are great! Shocks I'm using the Factory valved Varishock SS. The adjustable arms allow you to ACTUALLY get the caster/camber specs you want. I found that the arm length requirements were different left to right due to age/tolerance..etc you know from being 45 years old(couldn't correct for this with tubular arms). I did this all on a budget, and got the arms and talls uppers first, only recently I added the tall lowers to eliminate the bump steer. let me know if you have any questions on my setup, whatever route you choose I'm sure it will turn out awesome!

[jetmech442]

Found a few more that may be helpful...