1972 C10 Build

[Cshenker1121]

Alright guys sorry ive been away for awhile, i have got alot of stuff done on the truck.

I contacted Ron Sutton to build be a brake package that can be used on a road course as well as be able to compete in autocross and still be used on the street He created a good set up that i like that utilizes the stock front rotors and can use most of my parts i ordered for the rear . I ended up getting rid of my D154 calipers that had the two smaller pistons because of their lack of clamping force. So i ended up Getting
-Wilwood D154r calipers for the rear (Has one 2" piston opposed to the two smaller pistons)
-Wilwood BP20 Pads (for Road course)
- Wilwood 7/8 tandem M/c
-Wilwood Pushrod kit

*He recommended The "E" pad for autocross, I didn't purchase this yet, before i go to good guys i will get a set.


Ron is a very Knowledgeable source when it comes to anything on from purpose built track cars to street cars. I do not hesitate to take any of my question to him.



I finally had my 12 bolt built. I took it to a local shop that did an awesome job on everything, i ended up having the trutrac installed, gears, 1350 yoke, bearings and new axles with arp studs with a moser girdled cover.

I ended up getting rid of all of my cpp stuff, i wasnt too happy with it. So i ended up getting all hotchkis components to make a complete TVS kit. Upper and lower control arms, springs, panhard bar, sway bars, shock mounts, center link and tie rod adjuster. I didnt get their shocks because i already purchased ridetech HQ's which i will get Ron's "secret sauce" valving once i get the engine and transmission in.

Next on the list to get finished is:
-Front modular drop spindles to use with the hotchkis control arms (they use 73-87 ball joints) Along with the Hotchkis 2in springs along with new pitman arm and tie rod ends (hotchkis tie rod adjusters uses 67-72 inner tie rods and 73-87 outers i believe)
-Cooler for the power steering with new lines
-Fuel cell
-Get rear cross member made for the shocks, along with fixing the front of the frame where we made room for a set of old headers that didn't fit properly and get the rear spring mounts plated.
-Get the brake line plumbed
-Move the battery to the rear
-Have a Full cage built or at least a roll bar with a cross bar for the harness's.

Thanks guys!

[Cshenker1121]

Here are my brake calc sheets from Ron, the set up i had before was unsafe.
The new set up will work well for Road course, Auto x and street driving.