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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Danville, CA
      Posts
      30
      Country Flag: United States

      Rear end Getting Pretty Hot. Need Help

      I just ran the USCA event in Fontana. It was pretty hot there outside and after running the road course, my ford 9" was super hot. It was puking oil out the vent on top of the rear end. I'm using a heavy duty rear end fluid but nothing speacial. Any recommendations would be great. Is there a fluid that would work the best for this kind of abuse..



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2012
      Posts
      131
      Country Flag: United States
      What power level, track speeds, and differential are you running?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Greenwich CT and NYC
      Posts
      320
      Country Flag: United States
      Mine gets scorching hot as well 389 strange nodular tru trac. I drive my car in the 3-5k rpm range and hard. Looking into a diff cooler now im sure this heat will break down the diff fluid cause failure over time

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,358
      Country Flag: Canada
      What is the ideal temperature for a rear end...or gear oil as I should say.
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter ... soon to be revived ...
      On Instagram ryanaustinss70

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2001
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      1,572
      Country Flag: United States
      You might also consider running inboard axel seals to keep the oil from going down the tubes. But only do this if you have sealed bearings on the axels. I was getting a lot of oil puking out the vent even with a hose running to the frame/body before doing the inboard seals. The vent needs to be relocated to the center area as well when doing this.

      Sometimes straight axel cars rear ends run hot just from being low on oil in the corners. Also 9" fords are famous for puking out the vent, most people end up relocating the vent higher or using a catch can.
      1968 Camaro RS/SS, LS7 with Katech mods, T56 Magnum, C6Z06 Brakes
      1968 Camaro RS Convertible LS3/480hp/4L70E
      1962 Corvette 327-340hp stock
      1963 Corvette Split Window Coupe
      1967 Corvette L79 convertible
      2006 Corvette Z06
      2011 Corvette GS convertible


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      264
      Country Flag: United States
      a diff will run at temps close to engine temp under heavy use. this is normal. you can put a hose and a catch can on vent.
      71 maverick.
      71 comet in build process.
      i work at Current Auto Performance www.currentautoperformance.com. i also build the differentials for San Diego Gear and Axle.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Greenwich CT and NYC
      Posts
      320
      Country Flag: United States
      Mine never puked oil i have about 2.25 quarts of 85-140 oil in mine but was pretty surprised at the heat of the housing under there.

      Does anyone know what heat range gear oil can withstand before breaking down and becoming ineffective?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2012
      Posts
      131
      Country Flag: United States
      Reg oils I thought 300F is top end of the range, syns are obviously higher. To the OP, any aero mods restricting air flow, or nearby exhaust issues? I suspect with the typical total powertrain loss (20%?), that lost in the rear end, 400hp?x<20%x 745watts/hp makes the rear end, a pretty decent size heater. I have an electric pump/cooler on my mopar 8.75", which has slightly higher efficiency of the lower effiency ranking 9".

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
      Posts
      1,918
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CTSV View Post
      Mine never puked oil i have about 2.25 quarts of 85-140 oil in mine but was pretty surprised at the heat of the housing under there.

      Does anyone know what heat range gear oil can withstand before breaking down and becoming ineffective?

      Most mineral based gear oils are good to 240°. Most Synthetic gear oils are good to 280°-300°. But many times the internal components (gears, bearings, etc) fail at temperatures below these numbers if they are made from inferior metals.

      When Harley mentioned rear ends running close to 300° & surviving racing conditions, those rear ends have the best components to the nth degree. We ran ours to 280° often with no failures, but we didn't buy crap from the cheapest vendor & throw it together. There is a LOT of care that goes into those rear ends from deburring every edge on the R&P, REM polishing the gears & bearing races, making sure the bearing preload is EXACT, etc. That's on top of buying the every best quality gears, bearings, etc.

      I think for most of the ProTouring world, commonly available imported rear end internals will fail somewhere in the low to mid 200's. I do not have personal hands on experience running the cheap-gear-brand-of-the-week in tough conditions, so I can't say at what temp they will fail. So my "low to mid 200's" guesstimate is just that.



    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Greenwich CT and NYC
      Posts
      320
      Country Flag: United States
      im gonna borrow my friends IR thermometer this week get a decent reading of my axle housing and the oil after a an aggressive drive. I might consider switching to synthetic Royal Purple or Redline.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2002
      Location
      Springfield, MO
      Posts
      4,470
      Country Flag: United States
      At Putnam Park mine was puking out after about 7 laps. It was so hot that after about 10 minutes of cool down and jacking the car up and all it would still sizzle the brake cleaner I was spraying on it to clean the oil off. I'd say that is pretty freakin hot! LoL!
      I was running Royal Purple diff gear oil in a 9" with 3.00 gear and a locker, with the turbo engine set at about 550 at the wheels. For a quick fix, I zip tied a power steering bottle to the vent tube. Worked fine for the rest of the weekend. Now I vented the rear into the roll bar/cage tube, may be a bad idea but it'll allow the oil to expand in it and then run back into the rear after.
      Jimmy

      69 Camaro Twin Turbo'd
      58 Nomad 348 Baby Rat

      http://www.fquick.com/shmoov69


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Greenwich CT and NYC
      Posts
      320
      Country Flag: United States
      i spoke to Strange Eng today they advised not to run any synthetic oils in their tru trac and eaton systems.

      i mentioned about the heat the tech said he has never heard of such a thing which i call BS.

      he advised me to try different weight oil from Mobile 1 or Vavoline. I am currently using Lucas 85-140

      i will also test the temp when my buddy brings over his IR thermometer this week.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Greenwich CT and NYC
      Posts
      320
      Country Flag: United States
      ok i took a 7 mile hard drive and the rear end housing was 134F the exhaust pipes around the rear were 112F

      that was with 2.5 quarts of 85-140 oil Lucas non synthetic

      waited 3 hours to cool

      i drained the oil and then put 80W90 Lucas non synthetic

      went for the exact same drive and the rear end temp went up to 152F


      Should i really be concerned or these temps aren't out of the ordinary for a 9 inch?

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Feb 2002
      Location
      Springfield, MO
      Posts
      4,470
      Country Flag: United States
      Measure it after beating on it on a road course like before. That is the problem, not the street driving.
      Jimmy

      69 Camaro Twin Turbo'd
      58 Nomad 348 Baby Rat

      http://www.fquick.com/shmoov69


    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      264
      Country Flag: United States
      150 degrees is normal for diff temps. in my experience, ive seen many premature gear wear from synthetic gear oil. gear sets starting to make noise in under 15k miles. in my shop we use straight schaeffer's 209a 140 wt oil. its really sticky and we have never had a gear oil failure. lucas oil is what we will recommend if schaeffers is not available.

      the puking out the vent us usually from the turns pushing all the oil into the tube. ive had some road race guys put vents in each tube then run hoses to the catch cans.
      71 maverick.
      71 comet in build process.
      i work at Current Auto Performance www.currentautoperformance.com. i also build the differentials for San Diego Gear and Axle.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      104
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bryant View Post
      150 degrees is normal for diff temps. in my experience, ive seen many premature gear wear from synthetic gear oil. gear sets starting to make noise in under 15k miles. in my shop we use straight schaeffer's 209a 140 wt oil. its really sticky and we have never had a gear oil failure. lucas oil is what we will recommend if schaeffers is not available.

      the puking out the vent us usually from the turns pushing all the oil into the tube. ive had some road race guys put vents in each tube then run hoses to the catch cans.
      Was the fluid tested to determine it was the culprit in your past experiences?

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      264
      Country Flag: United States
      no testing, but its pattern failures seen mostly in ford f150s and explorers. i first started see f150s that were making gear noise in under 15000 miles around 97 when ford went to synthetic oil. now i do realize that all company's oils are not the same. a few aftermarket limited slip manufactures even say not to use synthetic oil. i have seen amsoil used is diffs from other builders and see no problems with it. we have used schaeffers and had no oil related failures. it a bit over kill but thats what is needed to stand by our work.
      71 maverick.
      71 comet in build process.
      i work at Current Auto Performance www.currentautoperformance.com. i also build the differentials for San Diego Gear and Axle.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Greenwich CT and NYC
      Posts
      320
      Country Flag: United States
      Where can i buy some Schaeferrs moly gear oil to try out?

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      104
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CTSV View Post
      Where can i buy some Schaeferrs moly gear oil to try out?
      You'll have to find a distributor in your area I believe. I would think that they would have a locator online.

      If you have any interest in running AMSOIL here's a link to our gear lubes. AMSOIL Severe Gear Lube

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Denver NC
      Posts
      288
      Country Flag: United States
      I wouldn't worry about 150 degrees...I would absolutely install inner seals..... And put a baffle near the vent hole in the housing....I rarely have any venting
      Problems while running a mine inch for the last
      14 seasons.... When run our splitter nearly completely sealed off at places like Michigan and Kansas and gear temps run close to 300 with a cooler.....
      Need A T-101,Jerico or other 4 speed transmission serviced? Pm me....

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