need some feedback from guys running proper manual brake systems

[CTSV]

My Mustang is getting a major overhaul and my engine of choice is an Edelbrock Supercharged Coyote. Since these engines are not an easy task to fit it is almost definite my Hydratech will not work or fit without hitting the engine.

I think my Hydratech was one of the best upgrades i ever made as it makes my car stop like a German sports car.

I never drove a car with a high performance manual brake system and would like to hear from some of you guys who run this system and how it works on the street especially in panic scenarios.

i may be able to squeeze a mini vacuum booster but i may be pushing my luck as there just isn't much room

I was considering a 15 inch rotor front and rear with 6 piston calipers from baer or wilwood.

[regal454]

I am running a manual brake setup on my car (69 Camaro with C6 brakes front and rear). Stops just as well as a car with power brakes. I would just make sure that the Master Cylinder is sized correctly to your application. You won't even notice the extra effort needed for the pedal until you go back to driving a car with power brakes. I personally like the feel of manual brakes over power for an old muscle car.

[RobNoLimit]

Bore size vs. pedal ratio is the key. We've built a lot of manual brake cars/trucks with good results. I doubt you have room on the firewall for a twin master-balance bar set up, but I would look into it. The foot well in that car is pretty small, so high ratio pedal (7-1 area) and larger masters (1"+) are out. Try 6-1 or so ratio and 7/8" bore as a start, and be willing to swap once or twice to dial it in.

BTW, what are you going to do with the hydratech unit? - I could use one for my wife's 65

[Payton King]

Couple of people running these electric power brakes. Not super cheap but they work great.

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/maincat...ameset038.html

[CTSV]

looks like il need to sell my Hydratech then, the electric thing seems cool however i had this electric brake on my 03 AMG Mercedes and HATED it, i would have no idea how this electric booster will work on a classic car. Are these electric boosters safe? what happens if power goes dead?

[TheJDMan]

I'm also running a manual brake system in Dust Off using a 7/8" bore Wilwood MC and C6 Z06 calipers front and rear. The system is VERY simple, VERY clean and VERY effective. I made the mistake of trying to hold a drink between my legs while driving (not smart). All I can say is that the brakes are so good the drink hit the dash before it hit the floor.

[CTSV]

is there significantly more leg force required to stop a car with a properly designed manual system? i myself like a clean simple system i hate the look of boosters and sometimes running hydraboost lines looks a bit cluttered

[jpgolf14]

is there significantly more leg force required to stop a car with a properly designed manual system? i myself like a clean simple system i hate the look of boosters and sometimes running hydraboost lines looks a bit cluttered

Yes. Significantly more leg force and a much longer pedal throw for the same stop. By dropping the booster, you are throwing away around 3x gain. This needs to be made up a longer pedal throw and a firmer pedal.

The calculations are not hard to do.

What are your current brakes? Master size, caliper piston size, rotor diameter.

What will your new brakes be? Master size, caliper piston size, rotor diameter

[Motorcitydak]

I typical power pedal ratio is 3-4:1. A manual brake setup will be around 6:1. I am going to run a Tilton dual master cyl brake pedal. My setup has the clutch pedal too. They are floor mounted but you can also have firewall mounted with the master cyl's going forward thru the firewall or reverse mount with them under the dash. Wilwood and Tilton both make setup's like this, I just prefer Tilton. Another great bonus of running this pedal is you get an adjustable bias bar so you can change the front to rear brake bias in the fly if you choose to run a remote adjuster

[Payton King]

There is an accumulator that will stop the car about 10 or 15 times if the electric pump goes out.

[PairOf69's]

ah this is great news as I have been wanting to do a manual c5-c6 front/rear setup for my 69 and wasn't sure if it was doable...
HE TheJDMan can ya elaborate on your setup, like brake line size? prop valve and what not....appreciate it your camaro is gorgeous by the way

does the wilwood mc bolt in..?

[AintQik]

The Wilwood master bolts in on a first gen. I have a 7/8ths and I think it feels "too much" like power brakes. Like stated above, if you aren't afraid to tune your brakes, you can get them to where you want them.

[Hydratech®]

I think my Hydratech was one of the best upgrades i ever made as it makes my car stop like a German sports car.

That's a great quote that we may run with somewhere on a future website update!

We have been working with some builders to develop solutions to accomodate the LARGE X HUGE architecture of the late model Ford V8's. There are two ways we have been making it happen:

If we can clear this BEHEMOTH BOSS 529, we can clear the "little" Coyote:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/2012/10/pr...of-the-tunnel/

The other way to do it is to put everything under the dash, which also satisfies that "real neat and clean engine compartment look" using Kugel Komponents goodies:

http://www.kugelkomponents.com/zenca...products_id=11

Use one of our universal street rod boosters in place of the vacuum booster shown.

Yes - both options options above require surgery to accomplish, though you will find that even a manual master cylinder will not bolt to your firewall with the Coyote installed (so you're going into surgery anyway).

Who knows? Maybe you will like manual brakes, though once a guy experiences the Hydratech system in action...

[TheJDMan]

ah this is great news as I have been wanting to do a manual c5-c6 front/rear setup for my 69 and wasn't sure if it was doable...
HE TheJDMan can ya elaborate on your setup, like brake line size? prop valve and what not....appreciate it your camaro is gorgeous by the way

does the wilwood mc bolt in..?

I installed SS replacements of the factory 68 drum/drum brake lines which consists of 1/4" front to rear line and 3/16" front lines with no proportioning valve. I did reuse the stock distribution block which located directly below the MC. I can tell you that this system is surprisingly well balanced front to rear and pedal leg force is not much higher than power brakes. I reused the stock brake pedal and linkage. As I say the brake system is very simple.

[Jeff70]

Maybe you can give DSE a call their 66 has PB & the Coyote. The guys at V8TV are also building a 69 with DSE & a Coyote.

[Johnny Blaze]

I just sold my 679 c10 which was manual brakes, daily driver. I perfer it over power.

[usa-69z]

im running a 7/8 wilwood mc with stock disc/drum setup on my 69..no booster.(proportioning valve fitted). Im not feeling the love with this .. what is my next obvious upgrade to get this thing to stop? (18inch rims)

[TheJDMan]

With stock 69 disk/drum brakes I think you need more along the lines of a 1 1/8" mc.

[usa-69z]

I just checked out my specs for my brake master and its #950-260-9439 which is 7/8 wilwood.. This is what was recommended to me.. the car really isnt up to par with this setup.. Im not sure if i could lock the wheels if i got into trouble. any feedback or help would be appreciatted ..do you think a 1 1/8 MC would make a difference?

[67cougnut]

I was considering a 15 inch rotor front and rear with 6 piston calipers from baer or wilwood.

Wasnt aware a 15" rotor is available for that front end. All the Numerous calls to DSE and Baer confirmed that my only two options for the front would be the 14"/6piston OR 12.75"/2piston kit. unless you are planning to create your own kit? not sure on the offerings from wilwood. the other option would be maybe to go chevy pattern and find a 15" brake kit that fits Vette, but hopefully the caliper doesn't say "corvette" might look funny on a mustang.