10" sub?

[diesel25lrs]

Has anyone mounted a free air sub in the package tray of a 1st gen? Im looking at doing 6x9s in normal spots with a 10" in the middle... I don't want to put a big box in the trunk...Im a novice when it comes to stereo stuff so not sure of the sound quality?

[Ron.in.SoCal]

I looked into this as well Josh. Most stereo experts told me it needs a box to optimize the sound. You could still put it in the package tray though...

[diesel25lrs]

Ron- glad i wasn't the only one thinking this...

The thing is- i plan on enclosing majority of my trunk with MDF to hide the sides & back- thus somewhat making a box under the package tray area... Make sense?

[cmac06]

This still won't create a positive seal. The purpose of the box is to provide resistance to cone movement this controlling the linearity of the driver. If you are using that much space, the volume will be so much that it will act as a free air speaker.

[astroracer]

To optimize the sub, whether ported or unported, the "box" needs to be sized to the speaker. Just building a random box will not necessarily work with the speaker you have. The sub manufacturerer should have numbers for box and port size.
Instead of using MDF to close out your trunk look at using masonite or 1/8th inch thick ABS sheet. They are both a LOT lighter and much easier to work with. If all you are making is close outs they will work much better. The ABS is nice because you don't need to finish it if you don't want to.
Mark

[diesel25lrs]

Mark-Thanks for the ideas! Although i could use a little more weight in the rear to balance a little better...easier to work with is always better!

Would a free air sub work decent for this application? I don't want a system that rattles teeth- just a little deeper base hit than 6x9s?

[zombiekiller]

As goofy and redneck as it may sound, I'd find a 10 that had the smallest air requirements that I could find, sink it in the package tray, then find a big ass salad bowl , mount it from underneath the tray, add some fiberfill and wiring, seal it all up and be done. If done right it'll look a hell of a lot cleaner than a custom box, be way lighter and suit the purpose of controlling air and providing resistance.

[Garymac69]

Check out the Kicker 10CVT10 sub this guy used in the link below, see the 3rd post down. I plan to go this route in my '69 this winter.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer

[diesel25lrs]

Link didn't work...

[Garymac69]

Let's try it again.......

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer

[diesel25lrs]

Thanks Gary! That's exactly what i had in mind!

[Indymanjoe]

I like zombiekiller's idea..

[CreepinDeth]

I looked into this as well Josh.
Most stereo experts told me it needs a box to optimize the sound. You could still put it in the package tray though...

Samething I was told, and did.
Samething they did with Earnhardts 2nd gen build.

Sub's need a certain amount of enclosed space to sound correct.
The spec's are in every subwoofers box.



This is my 10" sub box I made to hang from my 2nd gen's package tray. Each slat on the side is to hold the amps.


Looks like this in the trunk.

[RSX302]

Has anyone mounted a free air sub in the package tray of a 1st gen? Im looking at doing 6x9s in normal spots with a 10" in the middle... I don't want to put a big box in the trunk...Im a novice when it comes to stereo stuff so not sure of the sound quality?

Free air sub require a high total Q (1.0) for speaker dampening (cone control). Most speaker now days have low total Q (.3) because the tight spaces and small enclosures. Drawback is lower speaker efficiency. Freeair speakers to me sound decent low volume but die out (sound like crap) when pushed harder. You'd be better off with a small enclosure fired rearward. Just my 2 pennies.

[MonzaRacer]

As for free air subs, I simply use appropriate mH coils, 4 ohms crosses around 50 hz with 6.4 or 7.0 mH coils. Ran two 10 Blau Pro components in my 71 Monte, mounted to a piece of plywood bolted and fires into rear seats. in my 70 I removed package tray and back frame seat upper mounted two inside of seat holing tabs,,,mounted plywood between base of rear window and where trunk hump bends to meet rear floor, had my Marants BP750 amp, two of those 10s and two Optimus 6x9s 90w per channel 4 channels used, one left unhooked. would kick 139 out of 140 rating on RTA with no front speakers.

[makoshark]

I hate to step on people's toes here, but most of the information being passed along here is false. If a sub will work in a sealed arrangement, then it will equally as well in an infinite baffle setup, ie 'free air.' With that said, there are typically things you look for in a sub when deciding to go with an IB setup. One, you want the QES spec of the sub to be in the .5 range. Most subs, these days, come in the .4 range, which will still work quite well. The VAS, normally, you want to be a little on the high side. That is the amount of enclosure space spec'ed for the given sub, but that again, is not set in stone.

Infinite Baffle setups require less power to operate efficiently over sealed arrangements. IB setups will typically reach lower frequencies than sealed setups. IB setups generally take half the amount of power a sealed arrangement does. IB setups, when properly setup, have a superior sound over sealed. The sub stage is clearer, which makes it optimal for a SQ setup. If your looking for a heavy bass system, then IB is not for you. IB setups are designed to blend the sub stage in with the rest of the music as to not localize the sub.