Hardline vs. Teflon Braided

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Old66tiger,

Thanks very much for the tip on the industrial teflon hose.

I ordered 20' of -8 and 20' of -6 and it was super cheap, basically the same price as 20' of -8 from Summit.

I will get the lines fitted and run them over to Rad Rides to crimp the ends. This should provide a bullet proof fuel system that can take on E85, gas, and any other fuel.

Thanks again,

Jon

X2!!! I've been buying all my hose and fittings from them ever since I read this post. Saved me a TON of $$ over other vendors. But they are a little slow in shipping out items.

[nitetrain4590]

Thanks for all the help and recommendations. This is what the end product ended up looking like. A lot of hand bending -6 SS hard line with Teflon core Aeroquip through the frame and a bolt on bulkhead.

[MonzaRacer]

honestly doing the majority in hard line, then doing some sort of flared fitting or even a bulk head type of fitting and minimal flexible line just plain looks more professional.
Heck I have seen people bumped from tracks using flexible line front to back. The thing is I saw a guy use AN bulkhead fittings. He picked up a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool, did 37 flares on hard line and it looked so much better and I even feel safer.
As for aluminum, some states have vehicle codes not allowing it, or copper, so check first and if selling a car it can even cause the buyer issues.
Bad thing with aluminum is it work hardens. This means it gets harder as it flexes and cracks as its bent.
I have even watched tracks date drag cars fuel line and mandate replacement after so many seasons.
AND I have found the livability of aluminum pretty poor so think it through, a little easy now vs never having to remove it and slight price difference now.
As for the arguments on plastic, is it has had many years testing and if you ever saw how much abuse that stuff can take and still flow fuel. Its incredible. And we actually know the aluminum will crack if flexed or vibrates.
Good old fashion straight lines, in steel, either the painted/teflon coated stuff OR give it a light scuff with scotchbrite and paint it with a good zinc chromate primer and paint it. I like doing this as I live in high rust area heck one of the things I am good at at work is replacing fuel/brake lines.
big trick for flaring is get a good fine toothed file, make sure it has good handle tail. I use the file to put slight bevel to remove the ridge made by cutter, I also will use the file tail to clean the ridge inside, then even file the end. This makes a better flare, especially with a hydraulic flaring tool. THAT IS BEST MONEY I EVER SPENT. Well next to my Phoenix Injector.
Also a good line wrench set and AN wrench set will make build go much smoother. Oh and if using parts store line some clear top coat on top of scuffing with scotchbrite and your good to go.

[parsonsj]

Bad thing with aluminum is it work hardens. This means it gets harder as it flexes and cracks as its bent.

That's true of both aluminum and stainless steel, and SS is actually worse. The key is to get annealed or non-hardened tube.

Also: don't use a tubing cutter. That work hardens the end of the tube right where you need the most ductility for flaring. Use a bandsaw (or hacksaw) instead, and then clean and square the ends with a file or belt sander.

jp

[rb70383]

Thanks! It's not real hard to do, but 3/8" line can kink if you don't have a decent tubing bender. Take it slow. Also, you don't have to do a 37 degree flare if you don't have the tool.. you can do a standard 45 degree double flare and use a flare to AN adapter for the hose connecitons. The Swageloc deal is a compression fitting that goes on straight tube and has an AN fitting on the other side.. they're really nice, too.



Installed on hard 3/8" fuel line -

What is the number for those fittings? I saw it posted here and now cant find them.

[socorob]

Another problem with aluminum is ethanol will corrode it. I know a few people who have been having trouble with that in aluminum tanks in boats. It eats away at the aluminum oxide and even gelcoat in the built in fiberglass tanks, so you may want to go stainless or teflon to be a little future proof, since theres no telling what gas will be like 5 years from now.

[Skip Fix]

The industrial PTFE 2807 FBC -8 at 20 ' is still $138 the same as 20 " -8 at Summit of Aeroquip teflon lined.

[Brads70]

Great info thanks! I got a Swageloc fitting for 1/2" and will be ordering PTFE hose and fittings to plumb the entire fuel system from frozenboost!

[diesel25lrs]

Great info thanks! I got a Swageloc fitting for 1/2" and will be ordering PTFE hose and fittings to plumb the entire fuel system from frozenboost!

Did you happen to run the PTFE from frozenboost yet? I was looking hard at getting that until I did some research on it...I was wondering why it's soooo much cheaper than the others...It also has the white inner lining which I read is not nearly as good as the black lining, also made overseas... Another guy on Camaro 5 says that the fittings dont work on it-leaks like a civ...I'm going with the aeroquip and not taking any chances!

[Brads70]

Did you happen to run the PTFE from frozenboost yet? I was looking hard at getting that until I did some research on it...I was wondering why it's soooo much cheaper than the others...It also has the white inner lining which I read is not nearly as good as the black lining, also made overseas... Another guy on Camaro 5 says that the fittings dont work on it-leaks like a civ...I'm going with the aeroquip and not taking any chances!

No I haven't ordered them yet. Glad you spoke up! What fitting was he refering to? The ones on frozenboost? Do you have any links?
Thanks Brad

[diesel25lrs]

Dont have the link... It was a thread over on ls1 tech i believe... The bottom line is you dont want the white inner tube lining- get the black. Its antistatic if i recall & much better for fuel use! Im going with hardline down the frame rail & HS-79 on both ends for the flex!

[Brads70]

Dont have the link... It was a thread over on ls1 tech i believe... The bottom line is you dont want the white inner tube lining- get the black. Its antistatic if i recall & much better for fuel use! Im going with hardline down the frame rail & HS-79 on both ends for the flex!

Ok Thanks! I see frozenboost has black PTFE hose too?
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...49c519f71b64d3

[Samckitt]

I've had the Dorman plastic line on our EFI '62 Galaxie for nearly 10 years and it's been trouble free.

Hey Kevin, what type of fittings is used on this type of hose to connect to AN fittings, Quick connects, etc?
Thanks,
Scot

[joeelutz]

Don't want to hijack the thread, but could you guys tell me where you are buying Swageloc fittings?

[Ollie8974]

Don't want to hijack the thread, but could you guys tell me where you are buying Swageloc fittings?

Google Swageloc, go to their home page they list their vendors.

[Ollie8974]

Hey Kevin, what type of fittings is used on this type of hose to connect to AN fittings, Quick connects, etc?
Thanks,
Scot

http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-in...ttachment.html
This post is very informative regarding the nylon fuel line. Especially #19

[The WidowMaker]

I picked up -8 TFE for $3.44 and -6 for like $2.58/ft at aeroquip.cc on line.

i know this is old, but which hose did you find? cheapest i can find is 10 bucks a foot for the -8 and thats the industrial.

[Brads70]

Don't want to hijack the thread, but could you guys tell me where you are buying Swageloc fittings?

I bought mine off E-Bay

[Nothingface5384]

I know old thread but.

Has anyone thought about using NiCopp or Cunifer for a Fuel line?
as long as you can get them in correct size it should work correct as Brakelines handle more pressure then Fuel lines

Just curious as they dont rust and dont have a work harden issue.

As for flexable lines I think this is best that im aware of..http://www.techafx.com/catalog/49