New Car Hauler

[SparkyRnD]

I have been looking at trailers for a back-up for future events, and the getting in and out were of concern. I wonder if a door could be added somewhat easily on a used enclosed trailer?

[MrQuick]

most quality trailers have a passenger side door. I own an interstate that I bought used for a great price.

Just keep an eye out in your area, there are always used trailers popping up.

I've been towed way too many times and I know it really sucks. Stuff breaks.

[TheJDMan]

If you were to add a drivers side access door to an existing trailer you would need to provide substantial support for the stringers in the walls plus support the door. To be honest, a better option would be to mount a winch inside at the front of the trailer. My winch is equipped with a wireless remote. I can walk along side the car and steer as the car is being winched in. This eliminates the need for NASCAR style entry and exit plus it holds the car in place while it gets tied down. I also have a pair of batteries installed in the trailer so I can run interior lights and the winch in the pits. The trailer is wired so that the truck charges the trailer batteries as you drive the same way RVs are set up.

[David Pozzi]

I have a 22' box length & wouldn't want it any smaller. I bought a Sears double wide roll around chest & pinned it to the front wall. If I need to pit without my trailer I can roll the chest out. Sometimes at Laguna Seca Vintage Races we get to pit in permanent garages. I usually bring along a bunch of bin boxes of spares, small generator, air compressor, jack, fuel jugs, spare set of tires at times, & a wagon to haul the fuel jugs back & forth. At a vintage race with lots of spectators it's a little tough to drive to the fuel pumps & back. I'd consider a 24' box ideal, 22' very workable depending on car size & amount of stuff you bring along.

[exwestracer]

I have a 22' box length & wouldn't want it any smaller. I bought a Sears double wide roll around chest & pinned it to the front wall. If I need to pit without my trailer I can roll the chest out. Sometimes at Laguna Seca Vintage Races we get to pit in permanent garages. I usually bring along a bunch of bin boxes of spares, small generator, air compressor, jack, fuel jugs, spare set of tires at times, & a wagon to haul the fuel jugs back & forth. At a vintage race with lots of spectators it's a little tough to drive to the fuel pumps & back. I'd consider a 24' box ideal, 22' very workable depending on car size & amount of stuff you bring along.

Along those lines, another thing to consider is some meets have a paddock space limit (Historics for instance), so buying a bigger trailer can be troublesome in that regard as well. I have a 22' Featherlite "mini-stacker" I use for the supermodifed. Believe me, the 8' ceiling is wonderful after being used to ducking all my adult life. Problem is when you walk into someone ELSE'S trailer...

[protouring70]

Problem is when you walk into someone ELSE'S trailer...[/QUOTE]

Oh man.....that sounds like it would leave a mark!!!

[moreHP]

Nice set up!

[SparkyRnD]

I am interested in the 40' plus sizes, so that I could bring two cars wherever I would race (we have several PT members nearby). The winch idea sounds like a good one. What size do you use, and how did you anchor it?

[RobNoLimit]

Brett, a friend of mine is selling a 24' enclosed. Nice trailer, it has 6 lug 5200 lb axles, both with brakes. he's looking to get appx 4500.

Nice back up plan... Just about every time I take my car to a race event I find myself questioning that exact problem "drive as hard as you want and face the aftermath of getting it home". Were did you get it, new or used. Can you PM me with approx cost. I want one. Smart move on your part. Driving to events and shows is one thing, but thrashing your ride on the track is another and a trailer is almost a necessity.

Brett

[SparkyRnD]

Does anyone here run the upper 30's to mid 40's length enclosed trailers? I know Finch has one, but wasn't sure if anyone else used them too?

[SparkyRnD]

after doing some reading about georgia laws and florida laws, I think I am going to scrap the 42 & 48 foot trailer ideas. There are too many requirements, and with my tow vehicle, I'd be over the 60-65' total length, meaning special permits.

I think I'm going to look at 24-30 foot enclosed trailers. That way I can haul my car, tools and other miscellaneous junk, and still have room to maybe install a few bunks or other items. Probably will be cheaper too. I figure that Sabre is 17' long end to end, add in a foot at the rear with the car strapped down, so that will give me 6-12' of space depending on what size trailer I start looking for. That would be enough room for a few tool chests, generator, compressor, some seating.

[TheJDMan]

Check out http://www.racingjunk.com/ litterally pages and pages of trailers for sale in the Towing section. Just a general rule of thumb, 20' is about the max a 1/2 ton pickup can safely tow and 24' is about right for a 3/4 ton. When you get to bigger than 24' and up you really need a dually to be safe. I also always recommend a weight equalizing hitch with sway control to be really safe. And a cheap upgrade is to paint the interior white. you will not believe the difference.

[SparkyRnD]

we are running a dually, and that is a great note to point out for people that haven't towed before is make sure your truck is capable or towing the trailer you are considering

[Randy67]

Check out http://www.racingjunk.com/ litterally pages and pages of trailers for sale in the Towing section. Just a general rule of thumb, 20' is about the max a 1/2 ton pickup can safely tow and 24' is about right for a 3/4 ton. When you get to bigger than 24' and up you really need a dually to be safe. I also always recommend a weight equalizing hitch with sway control to be really safe. And a cheap upgrade is to paint the interior white. you will not believe the difference.

Good recommendations on what trailer works with what trucks. It's amazing what people try and pull with 1/2 ton trucks (or even worse, mid-sized trucks/SUVs). I recently picked up a 79 GMC dually so I could get an enclosed trailer, no way was I going to try pulling it with the Dakota I had. Good thing too, since I am picking up a Horton Hauler this weekend (used), a 30 ft v-nose, glad to have the dually.

Sparky, I was looking at 24 footers, but found this 30 ft for a good price. It will be nice to have the room, I might even put in a low-buck living quarters in there. The extra length is an issue, but side-by-side it isn't as big of a difference at it seems at first.

[TheJDMan]

It is downright scarry some of the huge trailers people try to tow with mid-sized trucks/SUVs. It does not take much to get a truck/trailer rig moving, the key is to be able to control the rig when some idiot pulls out in front of you. Always be sure your trailer brakes are in good working order before each trip and equip your tow rig with a good quality brake controller. It can save your life in an emergency!

I always laugh when I see the Toyota or Nisson commercials where they are towing a small utility trailer with an inflateable boat and talking about their towing capacity. I also have an issue with Dodge Ram in their current commercial where they are towing 5 or 6 trailers behind a Durango. Not only is that stupid but it is totally illegal.

[tazzz25906112]

Does anyone here run the upper 30's to mid 40's length enclosed trailers? I know Finch has one, but wasn't sure if anyone else used them too?

I have a white 2008 48' Roadmaster and frankly I want to sell it off and get back to driving my car to the events instead.... Make you a good deal if your interested....

[David Pozzi]

Remember most regular driver's license's will only allow you to tow a 10,000 lb trailer. The larger the trailer, the more it weighs, so you can't haul as much & still be legal. Usually a 24' to 26' is a good length, I think 28' would be at the limit if you fill it with tools and gear.

[SparkyRnD]

Albert, I'd love to, but unfortunately the size and the price are going to be outside my range ;)

David, around here the regs stated total length of 60' to run w/o a special permit, and it was either 16k or 24k. beyond that, it was mandatory CDL. That, coupled with higher insurance, stops at every weigh station, grief from DOT / DOPS, and other stuff, just not worth it. I'd like to get an enclosed 28-30, as that is enough room for one car, tools and a small living quarters if I choose. Also could add some fold-down bunks / cots, have an a/c up top among other creature comforts eventually.

Odds are though, Project Sabre is going to take every penny I have for some time, so toys like a trailer will be well down the road. I can rent a uhaul auto transport for around $50/day, and I think I know a few guys with open trailers that will rent for cheaper.

[71RS/SS396]

Remember most regular driver's license's will only allow you to tow a 10,000 lb trailer. The larger the trailer, the more it weighs, so you can't haul as much & still be legal. Usually a 24' to 26' is a good length, I think 28' would be at the limit if you fill it with tools and gear.

I'd bet a 28FT with any kind of accessories will put you over 10k with a car in it. I have a 24ft V-nose with a generator, a/c, compressor, winch, and cabinets in the front and it weighs 5700#s empty and it's all aluminum. I think it's very important to weigh the trailer and truck so you know what you're dealing with and to avoid fines from the weighmaster, if the pop you for being overweight the fines are pretty steep.

[Randy67]

Interesting Tim, do the accessories really add that much weight? Surprising to me that an aluminum trailer would be that heavy. My trailer I am getting is steel framed and weighs 4200 lbs empty (30ft V-nose Horton Hauler). It doesn't have any accessories like cabinets, a/c or anything, just open front to back. Gross weight is 10,000 lbs max (has 2 5200 lb axles), but with the car it will be at 7200 lbs min, plus anything I put in it. I will definitely keep an eye on what I put in it weight wise.