Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 30
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States

      Sway Bar Raising the Car?

      I seem to be having an issue with my front suspension. I have Global West Tubular uppers/lowers along with their coil-overs and #300 spring. The problem with the sway bear is that it was very difficult to install and now when I lift up on the the car the car doesn't go back down. When I push it back down you here bushings rubbing together. Could the sway bar limit/impede the suspension travel up and down like that? I've already been having trouble with the ride height. The coil over is adjusted all the way to the bottom but the the fender barely comes to the top of the tire.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,180
      Country Flag: United States
      How tight did you bolt the end links on the sway bar, and did you do it at ride height? It should be just enough to squish the rubber bushings flush with the washers. Also, did you lube the bushing where it mounts to the subframe before installing?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Philipsburg, Pa
      Posts
      528
      Country Flag: United States
      With the sway bar end links disconnected, does the car sit properly? The bar shouldn't affect ride height at all.

      Is it a QA1 coilover kit sold with Global West springs? 300's should work for that application...


      ramey
      Technical Support
      UMI Performance, Inc.
      [email protected]
      814.343.6315

      Join us on Facebook!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Den Helder, the Netherlands
      Posts
      1,148
      Country Flag: Netherlands
      If the rubber/PU bushings the bar is supposed to sway in are too tight, the bar will not rotate freely. Take the end links off and see if you can rotate the bar by hand w.o. excessive force. PU bushings should more or less act as a bearing so less force required than with rubber bushings.

      If the bushings are too tight then put washers under the bracket attachment pints so the brackets will not squeeze the bushings any more.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the help. We are going to loosen the bolts to the end links and see if that helps. The bushings are of the impregnated poly variety. The GW control arms are the coil-over specific lowers with the QA1 shocks and springs.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      What did you mean by "difficult to install"? If the bar is bound up in the frame bushings, it will definitely hold the car up...

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by exwestracer View Post
      What did you mean by "difficult to install"? If the bar is bound up in the frame bushings, it will definitely hold the car up...
      im with ray. At ride height, disconnect the end links, rotate the sway bar, locate your center of rotation...should be about where your sway bar arm is level to the ground or close. Measure your distance between the LCA and the sway bar. Either make a new tube and replace the bolt or buy another kit with the right dimentions.

      If you find that the bar is difficult to rotate. Lube it up better or see if you have the correct size.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      Unhooked the sway bar this afternoon. Now the car rebounds when lifted up or pushed down. The ride height did not change, but I wasn't really expecting it to. I can move the sway bar inside the bushings mounted to the frame. It makes a little noise so I will grease those bushings, but I still don't know what to make of the end links.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Philipsburg, Pa
      Posts
      528
      Country Flag: United States
      Can you post some pics from various angles?
      Technical Support
      UMI Performance, Inc.
      [email protected]
      814.343.6315

      Join us on Facebook!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,180
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by scogin918 View Post
      Unhooked the sway bar this afternoon. Now the car rebounds when lifted up or pushed down. The ride height did not change, but I wasn't really expecting it to. I can move the sway bar inside the bushings mounted to the frame. It makes a little noise so I will grease those bushings, but I still don't know what to make of the end links.
      The ride height won't change unless you drive it gently around the block or up and down the driveway a few times. It needs to settle. Then rotate the sway bar so it's level with the ground, measure the distance from the control arm to the sway bar and see if that's the same length as your end link. If not, cut it to fit. If its already too short, get a longer end link. Then tighten it down just enough to push the rubber bushing flush or slightly protruding past the washers.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      I'll try to put up some good pics later today. Thanks for the help.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's some pics...








      The bolt for the endlink gives me just enough threads to get started and tighten. Just getting the bolt started though is an adventure.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Might help more having pictures with the end links installed. As mentioned, the bar arms should be close to level at ride height, but that won't give you much length for the end links! Still kind of tough to tell what's happening from your description...

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2009
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      5,101
      Country Flag: United States
      Both end links do not have to be the same length. You should not have to preload the sway bar to attach the end links.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Philipsburg, Pa
      Posts
      528
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey scogin. Did you buy the coilovers, arms, bar, etc as a package or piece it together?

      Are the springs too tall (i.e. should it have a 10" and has a 12")? You'd think the car should be slammed with the adjusters all the way down like that.

      As a side note, your car looks awesome. Reminds me of Gottlieb's Big Red.

      ramey
      Technical Support
      UMI Performance, Inc.
      [email protected]
      814.343.6315

      Join us on Facebook!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      As far as the car being lowered, I would have thought the same thing. I originally bought the spring set-up. But with the adjustability in the rear, I wanted the same for the front. So I sold the control arms and bought the ones with the coil-overs. I received two sets of springs and installed the #300 with the nut all the way down and that's where it sits. For now it looks like the only option is to box out the lower control arm to make the mounting point lower vs a drop spindle. I'm trying to exhaust all other options before resorting to either one of those.

      I'll put the endlinks back in and take some more pics.

      Thanks for the nice words about the car. In times like these, that means a lot.
      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      charleston, SC
      Posts
      853
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's pics with the sway bar installed. Much easier to put in this time. But still makes noise and still stays in place when you move it up and down.




      Robert's 1969 Camaro - 2002 LS1/T56, 10pt cage, Global West Stage III front suspension, HTH truck arm rear suspension, Sprint Cup 9" full-floating rear end, Fikse Mach V 17" up front 18" in the back and still working on it...

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm a little concerned with the distortion of the frame mount bushings. I know you said the bar moved up and down without being hooked up to the LCAs, but that looks like the bushings are bound up with the bolts tight. Loosen the frame mount bolts up a couple of turns and see if you still have the same problem.



      300# springs are PLENTY soft for that location. You do still have some travel left, yes?

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website


    19. #19
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Just asking but your engine is installed right? Everything as installed to be run? Oil... coolant...glass...interior?

      Sway bar links could be 1-2" shorter.
      Are you sure the springs are seated correctly in the upper frame pocket? Its easy to get those wrong.

      Your Global west arms have Del-a-lums right?

      How did the sway bar move with the end links removed. should be easy.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,180
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by exwestracer View Post
      I'm a little concerned with the distortion of the frame mount bushings.
      x2.

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com