Wheel stud install

[pedro]

I am putting longer studs in. The knurl dia is .615" and the hole in the axle measures .609". I am using a 1/2 drive breaker bar and washers to pull the stud thru.... how much effort should it take?? It seemed a little to easy since I could hold the axle to keep it from turning. I don't have anything to compare to except the front since I normally do this with an impact gun. The fronts were very difficult (.509" knurl and .495" hole, corvette hubs) Anythoughts would be apprecated before I go an put the rest in.

Second question, they are moroso studs 190,000 psi/8740 steel and they say not to use wheel spacers (which is the whole reason I am putting in longer studs) I don't see any issue running .5" hub and wheel centric spacers... concur?

Thanks

Pete

[MIKE67]

Search "drilling for wheel studs"

per chicane67 post # 3 What ever you do... keep your interfearance fit around 0.012".

Your current example is only .006". Probably a little light. You previous example was .014". probably about right. If they don't spin when tightening they should be OK.

[pedro]

Thanks, after reading that I realized not all manufactures recommend the same. On moroso's site they recomend .606-.613" hole so I think I am good. I torqued the stud down to make sure it did not spin... its in tight, I just worried since the fronts required so much more effort.

What do you think about moroso's warning not to use with wheel spacers?

[MIKE67]

Wheel spacers will increase the stress on the studs. I prefer not to run them. But, lots of people do without any problems. It also depends on the wheel width, offset, Etc. Wider wheels, higher horsepower and age are all problematic with these older cars. If you are only running a 1/2" spacer it is probably ok, but don't quote me. You are the one that needs to make the descision when making modifications. It is likely that Moroso's lawyers require the warning.

[Apogee]

It is likely that Moroso's lawyers require the warning.

X2 the lawyer/liability thing...a slip-on rotor is a wheel spacer if you think about it.

Just my $.02, but a wheel stud doesn't see any stress other than what is caused by the preload of the stud untill you exceed that load (which you shouldn't do if you have properly sized your wheel studs), hence the importance of properly selecting and torquing your wheels studs. For most of the vehicle applications on this site, a quality M12x1.5 or 1/2-20 stud should be more than sufficient. Both 9/16-18 and M14 are overkill and 5/8 is bordering on ridiculous unless you throw drag slicks on your ride and flog it. Drag racing is notoriously hard on wheel studs due to the impact/shock loading on launch. Most of us not running wrinkle-wall tires won't ever be able to hook that hard, so you're dealing with a traction limited situation regardless of how much torque or HP you at the crank.

Tobin
KORE3

[John Wright]

If they don't spin when tightening they should be OK.

LOL...I think you mean when you loosen the nut and it don't spin then you're OK....LOL

(nuttin' like trying to get a flat tar' changed in the rain on the side of a busy road when the stud spins around in the hole and won't loosen)