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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Tacoma, WA
      Posts
      54
      Country Flag: United States

      Hardline vs. Teflon Braided

      Searched for the topic, but no luck on the specific question. Is there anything wrong with running full length teflon -6 AN fuel line for supply and return the entire length of the car? I know anytime you're running from hardline to fuel tank you should use teflon (or related flexible hose) and anytime you move the line through the frame. Seems like it would be easier to me to run it front to rear and cut down on the opportunities to spring a leak....and teflon line has a pretty high operating pressure. Does anyone know of any adverse conditions when running teflon line would not be advisable? Does the Aeroquip stuff collapse when bent past 90*? For my engine/efi kit, I need 3/8" (-6AN) for both supply and return. Thanks for the help.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm not a big fan of that much hose. It also gets pricey very fast! If it were me, I'd run good old fashioned 3/8" steel or stainless tube with swageloc or sleeve nuts on the ends, and go a short piece of hose at the ends or where it may flex. You can double flare sections to make it easier to install and remove, and it's going to be WAY cheaper, if you're up for bending & flaring.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
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      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Tacoma, WA
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      54
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the tip, Kevin. By the way, love your show. The work you guys did on the 69 Chevelle SS 496 helped with building my 69 Malibu. Gonna try my hand at hand bending the 3/8" steel and flaring 37* for the AN fittings.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks! It's not real hard to do, but 3/8" line can kink if you don't have a decent tubing bender. Take it slow. Also, you don't have to do a 37 degree flare if you don't have the tool.. you can do a standard 45 degree double flare and use a flare to AN adapter for the hose connecitons. The Swageloc deal is a compression fitting that goes on straight tube and has an AN fitting on the other side.. they're really nice, too.



      Installed on hard 3/8" fuel line -

      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
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      All about us:
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    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      277
      Bending hard line is the best, but it gets really tricky back by the rear axle and getting it snaked through the frame and such is quite a chore. Also, you will need to fabricate in several pieces to join the front and rear together properly. Also, the best hardline to get comes in straight lengths and not rolls. The longest length of straight tubing that I know of is 6'. As a result, unless you are building a car as a frame off deal, I would recommend using the TFE line from front to back. I picked up -8 TFE for $3.44 and -6 for like $2.58/ft at aeroquip.cc on line. It is the TW-S line and is the industrial cousin to the racing hose. This hose is IDENTICAL to the racing in every fashion. I called Aeroquip and talked with tech and found out that the TFE hose fittings for racing and industrial are also IDENTICAL and interchangable. I priced Type-O aluminum against the TFE and found that running TFE runs about $75 more by the time you offset the cost of the fittings and hose against the cost of a HIGH quality aluminum tubing and necessary tubing. You will need flexible hose at the tank and the motor anyway so there will always be the need for hose and fittings anyway.

      Under no circumstances should you use the run of the mill rubber braided hose for fuel line. This stuff has a history of failing and fuel leaks are not something to mess with.

      I am not a big fan of the compression fittings. If the tubing is not perfect, you can have issues with the compression fittings. Swagelock fittings and tubing is much more expensive than the Aeroquip TFE hose and fittings.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      I am thinking of getting Dorman plastic line kit and going plastic like new cars!

      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
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      2,263
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      I've had the Dorman plastic line on our EFI '62 Galaxie for nearly 10 years and it's been trouble free.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
      V8 Radio Podcast

      All about us:
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    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      Houston area in Texas
      Posts
      13
      My 3/8" SS tubing came in a 20' length. I had it cut in half for two 10' pieces. It can be found.
      http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w...k/IMG_0629.jpg

      1969 Conv. SS-350 4sp
      1969 Conv. 327 4sp

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Melbourne, FL
      Posts
      1,046
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by old66tiger View Post
      Bending hard line is the best, but it gets really tricky back by the rear axle and getting it snaked through the frame and such is quite a chore. Also, you will need to fabricate in several pieces to join the front and rear together properly. Also, the best hardline to get comes in straight lengths and not rolls. The longest length of straight tubing that I know of is 6'. As a result, unless you are building a car as a frame off deal, I would recommend using the TFE line from front to back. I picked up -8 TFE for $3.44 and -6 for like $2.58/ft at aeroquip.cc on line. It is the TW-S line and is the industrial cousin to the racing hose. This hose is IDENTICAL to the racing in every fashion. I called Aeroquip and talked with tech and found out that the TFE hose fittings for racing and industrial are also IDENTICAL and interchangable. I priced Type-O aluminum against the TFE and found that running TFE runs about $75 more by the time you offset the cost of the fittings and hose against the cost of a HIGH quality aluminum tubing and necessary tubing. You will need flexible hose at the tank and the motor anyway so there will always be the need for hose and fittings anyway.

      Under no circumstances should you use the run of the mill rubber braided hose for fuel line. This stuff has a history of failing and fuel leaks are not something to mess with.

      I am not a big fan of the compression fittings. If the tubing is not perfect, you can have issues with the compression fittings. Swagelock fittings and tubing is much more expensive than the Aeroquip TFE hose and fittings.
      WOW .. Thanks for this info on the industrial stuff from aeroquip.cc. I have been looking to get my hose from them but looked only at the race/performace side. I was planning on getting hose for my fuel. remote oil filter, and trans cooler from the race/perf side. I'll definately take a closer look at the industrial side. I like the PTFE stuff since it cuts way down on fume seapage.
      67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 Johnny Winters TH400 74cc KRE d-port flowed @ 310 cfm heads piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.55 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s

      Honest dad that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Posts
      294
      Country Flag: United States
      What diameter tubing is used with the dorman kit? This would be a fun project for my Nova.
      Tom

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      The fuel line doesn't have to be SS. Aluminum is actually a better choice: it's plenty strong, it's lighter, it radiates heat better, it's easier to bend, and it seals better.

      And yes, you can get it in 22' straight lengths.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Melbourne, FL
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      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      The fuel line doesn't have to be SS. Aluminum is actually a better choice: it's plenty strong, it's lighter, it radiates heat better, it's easier to bend, and it seals better.

      And yes, you can get it in 22' straight lengths.

      jp
      From ??? And what's the best type/spec to use for fuel lines ?? I am not opposed to running hard lines along the frame for my system.
      67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 Johnny Winters TH400 74cc KRE d-port flowed @ 310 cfm heads piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.55 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s

      Honest dad that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
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      I get mine from either Dillsburg Aeroplane Works (22'), or McMaster-Carr (6'). .035 wall thickness 6061 is what I use.

      The Dillsburg Aeroplane Works
      Aircraft-Race Car-Machine Shop-Raw Materials
      Charles T. Vogelsong
      114 Sawmill Road, Dillsburg, Pa 17019
      (717) 432-4589

      jp
      Last edited by parsonsj; 02-23-2011 at 12:30 PM.
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Melbourne, FL
      Posts
      1,046
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the info...
      67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 Johnny Winters TH400 74cc KRE d-port flowed @ 310 cfm heads piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.55 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s

      Honest dad that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

    15. #15
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      SoCaL-Pico Rivera
      Posts
      1,138
      Country Flag: United States
      I am doing the aluminum hard line with the swagelok ends. I got my tube from Mcmaster 6' hardline and the fitting dirrect from swagelok. I have most of my parts to do the fuel line and will be working on it this weekend.
      ---------Fabian Sanchez-----------
      71 velle Project Syckness ATS,Rushforth wheels,PRRC, Autometer,UMI, Hotchkis,QA1,hood-latches.com, comp cams,


      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=43881

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      USA, TN
      Posts
      850
      Quote Originally Posted by MonzaRacer View Post
      I am thinking of getting Dorman plastic line kit and going plastic like new cars!
      I've looked at the Dorman Plastic line, but can only find short sections of it. Is t available by the roll?

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Missouri
      Posts
      344
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TnBlkC230WZ View Post
      I've looked at the Dorman Plastic line, but can only find short sections of it. Is t available by the roll?
      It is available in a 25' roll.

      800-074 5/15"
      800-072 3/8"

      http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800072-...gy_auto_text_b
      Sean James

      69 Firebird - Build Thread
      72 Firebird

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by nitetrain4590 View Post
      Searched for the topic, but no luck on the specific question. Is there anything wrong with running full length teflon -6 AN fuel line for supply and return the entire length of the car?
      Nope, no problem at all. Teflon core stainless hose is great. I happen to have about 1500ft of the stuff in various diameters and use it whenever I can. Some of it is convoluted teflon core (which bends easier) but most of it is smooth bore and it will still make a nice turn to form some fuel lines. Good fittings are a must. But yeah, teflon core stainless hose can be used for the entire length of the car. JR
      What I write is opinion, none of it is factual. 2010

      Even though I'm conscious it doesn't mean I'm coherent. 2011

      I'm getting better with age. Best thing about old age is I don't know any better. 2012

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      68
      Country Flag: United States
      I use the teflon core hose. Easy to use, does not smell or leak and looks nice. It also flows more gas, larger ID.
      1969 Camaro, GM PP HO 454, Procharger D1-SC, 12 bolt rear end, 3:73 gears, 700R4, Borla XS mufflers, X pipe. Ride Tech Air Suspension and Retrotek Speed EFI. AR S200 wheels and Nitto 555. Wilwood 6 piston with Hydratech boost.


    20. #20
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Posts
      59
      Old66tiger,

      Thanks very much for the tip on the industrial teflon hose.

      I ordered 20' of -8 and 20' of -6 and it was super cheap, basically the same price as 20' of -8 from Summit.

      I will get the lines fitted and run them over to Rad Rides to crimp the ends. This should provide a bullet proof fuel system that can take on E85, gas, and any other fuel.

      Thanks again,

      Jon

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