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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States

      Help with transfer case bearing clip

      What kind of trick is required to get the clip back on the output shaft bearing/tailshaft?

      I finished the pump rub repair and everything has gone flawlessly.....except this.

      I've had the case apart several times now and just cannot get that dang clip onto the groove on the bearing. I have purchased every set of snap ring pliers that Northern Tool carries and none of them are any good for spreading this clip(no holes in the clip). If I manage to get the clip spread it slipps off the pliers before I can get the bearing in place. I've been at this all stinking day and have made numerous trips into town buying different pliers of all shapes and sizes.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      CHICAGO SUBURBS
      Posts
      761
      I just did one of these. I ended up getting the biggest pair of snap ring pliers, (flat faced) that sears had. I also modded the handle just a bit to open wider. They worked fine then.
      Frank B. 1968 Camaro 355 Procharged 6 speed. 1983 V8 S10. 1984 Monte Carlo Magnusen Charged iron 6.0. Plus a few other junkers!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, it is the wear plate that gave the problem. Took that back out and it went together just fine. There just isn't enough room for the wear plate that came in the Kennedy Kit. I may have to spring for the Merchant Auto cadillac kit. It has a pump included that has beefed up tangs to prevent the pump from wearing through the case. I spent nearly 12 hours today trying to make that Kenndy kit work.....uggh.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      While I had it apart, I drilled two holes on the snap ring so a set of snap ring pliers will actually work now.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      sweet...glad to hear you didn't pull out the welder.


      would this snap on plier have helped?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      sweet...glad to hear you didn't pull out the welder.


      would this snap on plier have helped?
      maybe, dunno though because the snap ring is similar to the one in your pic, but not exactly...this one is shaped more like the symbol in your siggy between the ' and the N....if that makes any sense.
      I took a straight set of pliers and modified them( I had several sets anyway). Took a 1/4" flat washer, bent it in half @ 90°, then sawed that in two pieces, welded each of the two pieces to the points of the pliers to make two cups facing outward so that the snap ring ends sit in those cups and don't slip off as you spread the snap ring. My pliers work, but they don't help get the snap ring in the groove in the bearing....
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      diagram isn't very good, but it was all that I could find online....item #7 is the retaining clip that I'm fighting with, and item #49 is a rubber plug that you take out to give you access to the snap ring. So basically you have to work down in that little slot....uggh.

      http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/componen...m33k15703.html
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Pics for those interested in why i have my t-case apart in the first place.


      repair is to put a wear plate in there for the pump to ride against so that it doesn't wear another hole in the case.


      it fits inside the tail shaft housing like so...



      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States

      the Emergency is over....it's all back in and running

      I dropped the t-case off at the tranny shop yesterday morning and I checked on it after work and they said it was ready. I went by and picked it up and asked.... " how'd it go for them?"



      The guy who disassembled it and put the plate back in and reassembled, had left already. His Dad(the owner) said that he didn't mention having any trouble with it going back together. They charged me .5 hrs ($37.50) and had sealed it all up and everything so all I had to do was stuff it back in the truck.



      So....I don't really have anything to report, other than good news...it worked and I took the t-case back home with me and put it under the truck lastnight. I drove it 45 minutes to work this morning and it seems to be quiet and dry as a bone.



      I don't have any clue what I may have been doing wrong, so I don't have any suggestions to offer should anyone else have the same problem.



      One thing that I did while I had that bearing snap ring out....I drilled two holes in the clip so I can use a standard set of snap ring pliers with it now.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      maybe, dunno though because the snap ring is similar to the one in your pic, but not exactly...this one is shaped more like the symbol in your siggy between the ' and the N....if that makes any sense.
      oh sure you can tell us the square root of 8675309.1138 but you don't know what the Omega symbol looks like????!!! Am I the only one that fell asleep during Latin in High school??? Can I get a Lambda please?? haaaa haaa just kidding John. Glad you got a grip on it.

      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      oh sure you can tell us the square root of 8675309.1138 but you don't know what the Omega symbol looks like????!!! Am I the only one that fell asleep during Latin in High school??? Can I get a Lambda please?? haaaa haaa just kidding John. Glad you got a grip on it.
      I was skeered to call it out because I wasn't sure about calling it an Omega symbol...and....(I confess)too lazy to Google it.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454





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