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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      899
      Country Flag: United States

      Subframe alignment

      Okay, so before I go through the pain of aligning my panels and getting the gaps perfect, I figured it would be a good idea to double check my frame alignment...and it is off.

      Now, I know that these things didn't come from the factory "perfect," but I am trying to get it that way.

      My frame is off by 1/8 of an inch. Is this an acceptable degree of "off?"

      I have tried everything from loosening the mounting bolts and shimmying and shaking to beating the frame with a sledge hammer (actually a piece of wood against it) to get it to move that 1/8" but nothing I do is working....

      How difficult will it be to align the panels, and align the vehicle so it is going to drive straight?
      Confucius says, "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"

      My build Beast

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      1/8" off in which direction?
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Just so we are on the same page refer to this....




      I used 5/8" dowels on my 70 to align the body to the subframe....Sort of go-nogo type of deal
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      899
      Country Flag: United States
      I did a quick approach. Everything matches floor to body shell, but to make things easier I dropped a plumb line from the rear leaf shackle points and the front of the sub on both sides (see picture) and then measured the lines of the "X" The passenger side is 1/8" longer than the driver side.

      and the dowels do line up...not perfect, but fairly close.
      Confucius says, "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"

      My build Beast

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Ah...1/8" in all that distance ain't nuttin to worry about IMHO.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      899
      Country Flag: United States
      well, that definitely makes me feel a little at-ease. Because I can't sit still too long, I went out and put the left side on...didn't end up too bad (needs some gap work, but not too bad) I only thought that was a PITA. now that I am on the right side (still with NOTHING TIGHTENED) I am realizing how easy the left side was!
      Confucius says, "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"

      My build Beast

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,098
      Country Flag: United States
      1/8" off!!! hell that's better than factory !!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,435
      Country Flag: United States
      I ended up getting mine to be about 1/16th off.. But it took pulling pretty hard and then nailing it in place. 1/8" should be fine.
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Pickering,Canada
      Posts
      287
      Country Flag: Canada
      that is nothing so start hanging sheet metal
      Steve

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      899
      Country Flag: United States
      I just had a thought....is it going to effect the alignment of the driveline? Below is a MS paint to show my concern--obviously an overly dramatic example to exercise my point...but will this not cause vibration at speed and wear on the U-joints?

      Thanks
      Confucius says, "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"

      My build Beast

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      http://www.1stgencamaro.net/frame.htm#MEASURMENT



      You originally told me it was off 1/8" on the diagonal from corner to corner.....which is nothing when you figure how long the diagonal dimns are, but now it seems you are saying that it is off 1/8" from side to side which is an 1/8th in a much shorter distance and makes a more dramatic effect.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454



    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Bethlehem, PA
      Posts
      50
      The center should still be the center. Why did you show the rear so far off. It should still go down the center. Clearance in the bolt holes will keep it there.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      U-Joints...they will be fine until you get past 3-4° out of align, then the joint is starting to get to a point where breakage might be a concern.

      1/8" is nowhere near enough to place 3-4° on the driveline. To get 3° in 18 feet you would have to be off 11 5/16".....LOL
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    14. #14
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      899
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      http://www.1stgencamaro.net/frame.htm#MEASURMENT

      You originally told me it was off 1/8" on the diagonal from corner to corner.....which is nothing when you figure how long the diagonal dimns are, but now it seems you are saying that it is off 1/8" from side to side which is an 1/8th in a much shorter distance and makes a more dramatic effect.
      no, it is still 1/8 on the diagonal from corner to corner. I was just using an extremely dramatized picture to highlight the possible problem I was concerned it would make.

      I figured out the problem-the mount point under the driver's seat is very tight. The sub bolt has no free movement to allow adjusting of the frame. I am half tempted to cut the seat frame cage nut loose and shift the hole a little to give it a bit more room to move around...maybe 1/4 inch.

      But then again, I may just say to hell with it. Just the inner annoyance in me telling me to align it perfectly that I have to get over.
      Confucius says, "Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life"

      My build Beast

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      beaverton oregon
      Posts
      392
      Country Flag: United States
      an 1/8 diagonal is only 1/16 adjustment to correct. so you are only 1/16th off. square subframe to rear rails, then rear end off front suspension mounts. i personally just went from suspension mounting points to square it.
      you really have nothing to worry about. that is uber close.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Piqua, Oh
      Posts
      397
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by overZealous1 View Post
      an 1/8 diagonal is only 1/16 adjustment to correct. so you are only 1/16th off. square subframe to rear rails, then rear end off front suspension mounts. i personally just went from suspension mounting points to square it.
      you really have nothing to worry about. that is uber close.
      Ya Beat me to it... I work for a company that makes check fixtures for the automotive industy.... +/- 3mm is pretty standard on assemblies (3mm = .118) (1/8 = .125)
      Mike South
      1968 Camaro SS/RS LS1/T56
      Ride Tech Tru Turn, Ride Tech T/Q Coil-overs
      Ride Tech 4-link




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