Sway bar bracket bolts stripped

[ErikLS2]

If you just weld those holes up drilling and tapping them will be very difficult as it is much harder than the metal the frame is made of.

Since you can weld on the frame it seems you have several options. A flush mount rivet nut is a possibility but it should be somehow tacked in place with a welder if you can get to the backside of it. A stronger type of heli-coil called a Timesert or Keen-Sert would work well.



Another possibility is to weld a nut (or 2 if both are stripped) to a flat piece of steel. You'll then place this piece of steel inside the frame and plug weld it to the frame through 1/2" or so holes you drill on either side of the bolt holes. You can then grind those welds flat if needed so you have a flat surface to bolt the sway bar bracket to.

If you can't get the steel strip with the nuts on it in place through the end of the frame, then you can just drill the bolt hole opening in the frame large enough to slip the steel strip up into the frame, hold it in place with something and weld it in place.

The only other thing I can think of is a threaded insert like is used on the end of control arms and can be purchased already made. Problem is getting it welded in place so the surface is smooth. I'm sure you can't get to the backside of it inside the frame rail to weld it.

[Roadbuster]

Here's a what would you do question for the group.

Imagine my surprise as I was attempting to torque down the first sway bar bracket to frame bolt to the 25 lb. ft. the service manual calls for and that bolt stripped right out. When it did the other bolt decided it wasn't happy being in its wallowed out hole either and that 1.25 inch sway bar developed a sudden magnetic attraction to my head. Luckily it didn't hit any vital organs and I'm sure this knot will got down in a week or two.

I went to the other side and, sure enough, that metal is about stripped out as well. With the bar removed I stuck a bolt in each hole and tried to pull to 25 lb. ft. The bolts just spin. So they all need repair.

I see 2 options. I weld the holes in the frame, re-drill and tap or I can weld nuts to the bottom of the frame. The latter would certainly be an easier fix. What would you do?

If you just weld those holes up drilling and tapping them will be very difficult as it is much harder than the metal the frame is made of.

Since you can weld on the frame it seems you have several options. A flush mount rivet nut is a possibility but it should be somehow tacked in place with a welder if you can get to the backside of it. A stronger type of heli-coil called a Timesert or Keen-Sert would work well.

Another possibility is to weld a nut (or 2 if both are stripped) to a flat piece of steel. You'll then place this piece of steel inside the frame and plug weld it to the frame through 1/2" or so holes you drill on either side of the bolt holes. You can then grind those welds flat if needed so you have a flat surface to bolt the sway bar bracket to.

If you can't get the steel strip with the nuts on it in place through the end of the frame, then you can just drill the bolt hole opening in the frame large enough to slip the steel strip up into the frame, hold it in place with something and weld it in place.

The only other thing I can think of is a threaded insert like is used on the end of control arms and can be purchased already made. Problem is getting it welded in place so the surface is smooth. I'm sure you can't get to the backside of it inside the frame rail to weld it.

You cannot use the bolts to compress the factory style bushings. You have to compress them with a jack and then put in the bolts. Larger sway bars are usually too wide for the stock hole spacing and the bolts end up cross-threaded which makes the problem worse.

I think the problem here is the factory did not design the sway bar mounts for the loads that our modified cars can put on them.

I am working this issue myself. Tried the plate with nuts welded to it to get in inside the frame and that did not work. The frame is a messy place inside and it is a pain to get it to line up. If you have an A-body the steering box is in the way.

Somebody here welded rod to the top of a bolt to make a T. This was then put up in the frame though an access hole and the brackets were held on with nuts. This is what I plan to do next.

Another idea is to weld a plate to the bottom of the chassis with tapped holes in it. This would move the sway bar down a tad unless you cut out the frame to accommodate it. For this I was thinking a 1/2 inch plate tapped with holes for 3/8" bolts, then machined around the edge to give a lip. cut hole in frame and insert so that it sits on the lip. Weld it in and the brackets will sit flush.

The last idea is to use a three piece sway bar and run it through the frame. This requires the most work and is just an idea.

Sorry that the post is so long. Hope this helps