what did you use to paint the frame with?

[68firebird]

I was thinking of using POR-15 to paint my subframe but was wondering what other types of paint you guys used. Just looking into some alternatives.

[Happyfunballs]

Eastwood Chassis Black.

[wmhjr]

Powdercoating, baby! I found a great local shop that was incredibly inexpensive for sandblasting and then black semigloss powdercoating of my frame. VERY reasonable and it really turned out great.

[68firebird]

Eastwood Chassis Black.

Looked into the eastwood chassis black and that's what I've decided to go with instead of the POR-15. I totally forgot about eastwood! thank you!!

[68firebird]

Powdercoating, baby! I found a great local shop that was incredibly inexpensive for sandblasting and then black semigloss powdercoating of my frame. VERY reasonable and it really turned out great.

I'm not able to pull the subframe out at this time due to room constraints so I'm unable to have it powdercoated, that would be my first choice if I could though.

[Gitter Dun]

I'm not able to pull the subframe out at this time due to room constraints so I'm unable to have it powdercoated, that would be my first choice if I could though.

Thanks guys, I forgot about Eastwood also.

[Happyfunballs]

Never could wrap my head around powdercoating the subframe. If and when it chips/flakes, touching up would be difficult....and forget about repainting it.

[critter]

Krylon semi-flat black. Yeah, I'm poor.

[wmhjr]

Never could wrap my head around powdercoating the subframe. If and when it chips/flakes, touching up would be difficult....and forget about repainting it.

Don't make it more difficult than it is. First of all, it doesn't flake. Period. And it's hard as heck to "chip". To get my ground connections, I used an angle grinder to get bare metal.

Plus, it's easy to touch up with semigloss paint. Powdercoating is about 100 times tougher than paint and 100 times more durable.

I am lucky though. There is a great metal finishing place not far from me. Powder coating and ceramic coating. I was able to have the frame sand blasted and powder coated for a few hundred bucks within 5 days. I know guys who have paid a heck of a lot more. My sandblaster is junk. I delivered the frame untouched (not even cleaning grease off of it) and 5 days later picked up an assembly that looked like it just left the factory. Actually, better.

[wmhjr]

I'm not able to pull the subframe out at this time due to room constraints so I'm unable to have it powdercoated, that would be my first choice if I could though.

Gotcha.

Based on that, I'd recommend POR15. I've used both it and Chassis Black, and have found that POR15 for me lasts far better.

[Happyfunballs]

Take it easy jr, it's just my opinion. I like the ability to repaint things when they fade, chip, etc. I've drug my subframe over one too many speedbumps.....nothing will stand up to that.

[wmhjr]

Take it easy jr, it's just my opinion. I like the ability to repaint things when they fade, chip, etc. I've drug my subframe over one too many speedbumps.....nothing will stand up to that.

Sorry - didn't mean to come across other than just helpful. Just making the point that you CAN touch up powdercoating with paint. I've done it tons of times. If you look at my current project, there are some mods I had to make after the powdercoating was done. You'd never know it by looking at it, but the semigloss black paint blended perfectly with the powdercoating. Lots of people seem to think you can't touch up powdercoat with paint. Probably for odd colors that might be an issue, but for frames? No problem at all. There's less prep work and it turns out great!

[Happyfunballs]

No probs dude. Having re-read my post, I could see why/if you got defensive. No "dis" intended. I look at powdercoating like the point of no return (even though it isn't) Once you powdercoated something, recoating becomes difficult down the road. I believe you can powdercoat over powdercoat, but you really shouldn't paint over it....and stripping it is REALLY difficult. Perhaps NOW I'm making it harder than it really is.

[armourmark]

DP-90 from ppg then clear coat for UV protection. Or if you want to go cheap, John Deere blitz black.

[senor_camaro]

i sanded the crap out of my frame, 3 coats of primered, 5 coats of valspar semi-gloss black at lowes. cost me 30 buskc and it came out sweet

[Jim Nilsen]

I used POR-15 and have been happy with it. The good thing about it is the chemical resistance to everything. I have accidentally spilled brake fuid for my clutch on it , antifreeze, gasoline and who knows what else and it cleans up and looks better than the day I put it on.

There are many things these days that are as good or better but it works well and the cost is in the ballpark for most of us.

The debate can get deep but in the long run it is good stuff.

[wmhjr]

Agreed, Jim. A couple points from some recent discussions around here over the past week.

1) I personally really like POR15 and some like "Chassis Saver". A very good friend who has been of very great help during my project (electrical genius) used Chassis Saver on his truck frame. After about 1 yr, there are spots that don't look great now. Functionally I'm sure it'll be fine, but it's not good enough for either him or I.

2) I'm starting to help my dad on a '54 Chevy truck he wants to redo to a "driver" quality nice truck. Our sandblaster has been giving us trouble, so we planned to have the frame/suspension blasted and then paint it with either Chassis saver or POR15. Adding up the cost of the blasting and the paint, we realized it was almost exactly $100 less than having the entire thing blasted and powdercoated where I had the GTO done. Depending on your perspective, $100 may be just a little or a whole lot of money. I also realize I'm lucky to have the particular shop near me that is both good and reasonable. Having seen and worked with the other stuff I've had powdercoated, my dad realized that for him it was definitely the way to go. Also - I've painted TONS of time over powdercoat when necessary and it has worked out absolutely perfectly.

3) OTOH, for some suspension components, I used silver POR-15 and it has been excellent. It takes a LONG time to set, but it results in a glossy, hard silver coating that's tough - and it's easier to keep away from areas that would be real hard to powdercoat. Like tie rod joints, etc. I'd love to see what an entire frame would look like with it, but it would be significantly more expensive than powdercoat.

Now, if we REALLY want to talk crazy, I wonder what a silver ceramic coated frame would look like? :bsjerk:

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Never could wrap my head around powdercoating the subframe. If and when it chips/flakes, touching up would be difficult....and forget about repainting it.

Not true. First, properly done, you can sand and paint right over the top of it. I did this on my doors.

Second, the Eastwood Chassis Black is extremely close to the Chassis Black powder coating on my frame, fenderwells, core support and and most any other part I could have done. Paint touch ups are a cinch. The good news is, properly done, you shouldn't need to. I've only touched up where I've drilled new holes.

[Bad94]

I really like the Eastwood 2K Ceramic chassis paint.

I used it on a truck frame, and it hold up very well.

[ponchonorm]

Another cheap alternative is Valspar Tractor and Implement paint low gloss black. Have it in quart, 1/2 gallon, gallon and spray cans. I brushed it on the areas of my frame i could then used the spray cans to get in the nooks i couldnt get with the brush. The stuff takes a little bit to dry but is tough as nails when it is. Used it to paint the front control arms on my 65 LeMans and it stood up to agressive use with pry bars to get the springs in.